Best Of
Re: Calling Peerless 63-series Owners: A Venting Mystery
Hi @dabrakeman I think the reply above got put onto a different thread than intended
Re: Argo AR826 schematic?
This may help ?
Looks like it is in Priority when the picture was taken. I assume the switch is up for priority.
Your actual issue may be elsewhere. That box may only just provide Priority for the DHW (Domestic Hot Water) circulator. When there is 'No Priority' it may simply provide power for the heat zone circulator which may be controlled by another device. That box (the AR826) does not appear to provide 'Thermostatic Control' for the heat zone circulator. It other words it only interrupts the power for the heat zone circulator to favor DHW circulator.
There is multiple pairs of wires connected to the X-X terminals which leads me to believe there is other control equipment.
You can inspect the relays (the contacts) if they are in sockets and if they are the same part number you can rearrange then to see if the symptoms change. Mark their original location.
The "24 VAC Zone Valve" terminals has me confused as to their purpose (and not used in your case).
Is it just a 24 VAC supply for a thermostat / zone valve circuit.
A control input from a zone valve end switch.
Or a means to interrupt a zone valve control circuit to prioritize the water flow for the DHW.
109A_5
Re: Mystery water leak - excess water take up problem
why wouldn't the new independence also require the chimney be repaired?
mattmia2
Re: Mystery water leak - excess water take up problem
Unfortunately, Burnham Independence doesn't have the best track record. I would fill the boiler with water until you feel the supply header get cold as @Ironman mentioned.
The boiler does not have to be cold to do this, but I would not do it with the boiler red hot. You could have a leak above the water line. Any leak should be self evident.
You could post your location and look for a steam contractor in "find a contractor" on this site"
When totaling up your EDR for a potential replacement just add up the EDR of the radiation. Do not add anything for piping or pick up. Compare the EDR to the boiler nameplate in square feet of steam. The pickup factor is already added in.
Re: Cleaning my Woodshop furnace
I would be more concerned with wood dust in the burners and controls and inducer (fire side) rather than the air side. Remove the burners and blow them out. Clean inducer.
If it has been a while I would probably pull out the blower assembly and then vacuum and blow out with air.
Re: newer wall furnace with one sided heat.
@needinformation
Forget UL approved CO Detectors. They will not alarm until 70PPM is exceeded for up to 4 hours!
Search for Low Level CO Detectors. These will alert as low as 15 PPM.
Do not run that furnace.
pecmsg
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
I will just say @archibald tuttle that I did run several tests with accurate gauges at the boiler and at the far end of the main and I never saw any measurable difference in pressure between them at any point in the heating cycle.
If we think about it, it makes sense. Pressure differential "travels" or equalizes at something like the speed of sound (which is in fact what sound is). There just isn't enough friction in a home system at home pressures to ever see any kind of pressure drop.
Re: Boiler water quality
Others will comment but iMHO if the water level is steady (not bouncing over an inch or so) when steaming and the water is only tea colored then I would leave it for now.
If it was me I would boil it out with TSP or washing soda in the spring. 1lb/every 50 gallons of boiler water.
You might check the PH with some PH strips.
Re: Peerless 63 Series... Discontinued???
but I have a strong distrust of Burnham just due to the fact that they are STILL offering the IMO flawed Independence line which again, IMO, should have been re-engineered or cancelled years and years ago given how fast it seems to rust out.
Me too.
There was a post here just a few days ago about an independence that failed installed in 2013 I think the op said.
They (all the mfgs) design a boiler that then go with that design for 20, 30, 40 years or more.
The HB Smith 28 the first one I saw installed was 1977 and they still make them today. A few changes but the sections are interchangeable.
Once they go with a design they ride it to the bitter end . If its bad they will still sell it and will only drop it if it will not sell.
The Weil McLain Gold oil fired is basically the same boiler they have made since the at least the mid 80s. Even though it is rubber gaskets it seems to hold up pretty well.
Utica/Dunkirk have been around for years as well. Any boiler can fail if neglected but they seem to hold up as well as anything.
Peerless (or the Boyertown Foundry whoever that is) has been making the boiler sections for Smith & Peerless ever since Smith closed their foundry in Westfield which must be 35? years ago.
Don't know what is going on with Peerless.