Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.

Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

Best Of

Re: Daikin 2-Zone - Which port to charge? - Instructions confusing

Liquid (bottle upside down) into the suction port. Probably doesn't matter which head, as long as the entire system is operating.

ratio

Re: heating oil tank manufacturer's warranty voided by transfer of oil from the old tank?

This is one of those things like "you must always install a drop header" or "you must use all boiler supply tapings on a steam boiler" or "don't use Teflon tape on oil lines".

All oil tanks collect water from condensation because basements are usually cooler that the outdoor temp in the summer.

A lot of people transfer oil from old to new tanks. Is it a problem? Who knows.

The MFGs stich their orr in the water to CTA. Just like they do with Teflon tape. We used Teflon for years before that rule changed with no issue.

Something happens down the road with a tank and the MFg anit gonn pay no matter what they are long gone. We all know that. they don't pay when boilers crack either. They can always find an excuse.

EBEBRATT-Ed

Re: Cyclegard green light blinking and clicking rapidly - boiler wont fire

You can temporarily bypass the LWCO and see if the boiler fires

STEAM DOCTOR

Re: Cyclegard green light blinking and clicking rapidly - boiler wont fire

Not necessarily the LWCO. As stated above, a short anywhere in the circuit, can cause the chattering. Look for frayed wires, touching the boiler jacket. Or hot/ neutral wires touching. We're there any recent changes? Did anyone add a smart thermostat and change some wiring? How old is the boiler? Was there any construction done in the house? Is it possible that someone put a screw through some wires?

STEAM DOCTOR

Re: Recommendations for oil held over from year to year

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1855953#Comment_1855953

That's fine. Just do the additive. The higher the level of fuel in the tank, the less chance condensation can form. If the tank isn't buried, there should be a valve at the bottom of the tank. If the tank feeds off the bottom and the tank pitches towards the valve, the filter should get it. If its top fed, water (if any) can be drawn off at the bottom valve.

HVACNUT

Re: Radiant Snowmelt Tubing Size and Placement- Under Eaves

The snow that slides off the roof over the main doors… um, no. What you will get if that happens is a pile of snow — essentially the entire roof above where it hits — in a dense heap. Much denser than fallen snow. To look at it another way — the equivalent of perhaps 8 to 10 feet of snow in a nice dense pile two or three feet high.

Seen that.

There is a very good reason why barns in snow country are designed to keep snow from sliding off the roof over a door (a door in a side wall). Now there are several ways to do that. A covered area like a low dormer to deflect that roof snow off to the sides is sometimes the simplest. Assuming, of course, that the door has to be in a side wall for some reason (and there are good reasons). Alternatively, brakes of various types and styles (there are a lot — homemade and commercial) to keep the snow on the roof in the first place. They work pretty well — though of course the roof has to be designed and built to take the snow load…

But don't think you are going to melt that heap of snow with a snow melt system. Not in the Adirondacks. Not going to happen. At least not in any reasonable time frame.