Best Of
Re: Water to Water Geothermal heat pump replacement with lp boiler
if the original installation was not designed properly, lack of adequate loops or well for example.
Maybe the load is larger than anticipated?
Or the installation was botched?
new replacement or repairs may not get what you expect
I would do some number crunching. A load calc as step 1
hot_rod
Re: any suggestions on pumps?
The 26-99 would easily support 3x what you have and is grossly oversized (though would modulate). Even the 15-58 will do nearly double what you have without issue. The Alpha 15-58 and two 3/4" Sentry zone valves would do a heck of a job here but if cost is of any concern, one UPS15-58 on each zone would be a great fit as well.
I typically run my loops 250ft in residential homes and use 32% glycol, and a single 15-58 starts to max out at about 14-15 loops. I do typically use the Alpha 26-99 with zone valves and/or actuators when it's 3 or more zones and 15+ loops, but something like yours would be two UPS 15-58 (if a budget build) or an Alpha 15-58 with two zone valves.
GroundUp
Re: Water to Water Geothermal heat pump replacement with lp boiler
find a different contractor
pecmsg
Re: Need help with new install of radiant with Buderus cast iron boiler
Back in the day, before mod cons, CI boilers were commonly piped with 4 way motorized mix valves.
This valve both protects the boiler from low return, and provides the mix down temperature. Many of the Euro boilers offered this assembly. Tekmar, HBX are a few that still offer the valve, actuator, and controller.
\If return drops below acceptable temperature the valve modulates to protect it as priority.
Possibly a single circ will; work, depending on the loop requirements, gpm and head.
If not a two pump system was used with either a high pressure drop boiler, or high pressure drop radiant.
Buderus used to promote that "flexible cast iron" as being able to accept low return without damage? But flue gas condensation needs to be considered.
Price it with the components to use that boiler, or a combi.
Many here rave about simplicity and long life, inexpensive maintenance and parts of CI boilers.
The 4 way also provides outdoor reset.
Caleffi Idronics #7 talks about numerous mixing options for projects like yours. Hard to beat a 4 way.
hot_rod
Re: Thin Tube Steam/Hot water in Barre VT
Vermont is difficult. If you can't find anyone stop at FW Webb in Barre. (they are a supply house) Ask them to recommend some GOOD contractors
Re: Best nest thermostat-Experts recommendations to choose
The thermostat is not capable of changing the heating needs of the building. You need X amount of BTUs to heat the place to X temperature when it is cold outside. If you want to save money reduce the heat loss of the building. Weatherstripping, insulation and air sealing usually do the job better than changing thermostats.
In my opinion the best choice is not using a Nest thermostat at all. Save yourself a lot of trouble in the future. If you want WiFi control get a Honeywell or Ecobee
Re: Best nest thermostat-Experts recommendations to choose
I will add a bit to the above. You mention that you have "issues with uneven heating/cooling". No thermostat — however smart or dumb — is going to help with that. As @SuperTech said, step one is going to be reducing the heating load — storm windows, weatherstipping and draught sealing, maybe some extra insulation (or just some!). Step two is going to be get your heating system properly balanced so you don't have uneven heating and cooling, or at least it is more even.
Step three has to do with temperature control. The thermostat. The most even and comfortable heating will come from a system, including the thermostat, which is not chasing a target. That means that the thermostat, in particular, sets a temperature target — and holds it. Now this doesn't mean you can't save (some) with a mild night setback — a few degrees. What it does mean is that you aren't constantly chasing the temperature up and down.
Which is what "smart" thermostats are intended to do.
Therefore, if you insist on a "smart" thermostat, I'd pick one of the Ecobees — and dive into its settings and cancel all the room occupancy or other similar features. Nests do work, and are even not too bad with forced air heat, but they are difficult to install on anything other than a very plain vanilla forced air heat system and they are VERY hard to configure properly to play will with any form of hot water or steam heat.
Re: Best nest thermostat-Experts recommendations to choose
What type of heating system do you have? Steam, hot water, forced air? What fuel source?
If you have an hydronic, steam or any type of modulating equipment, then a Nest is the worst possible choice.
Ironman
Re: using pex tees in hydronic hot water heat system
An old timer trick to remove air from monoflo® with convector systems where the vents were behind painted covers and not easily accessible, was to operate the circulator pump at a higher pressure and lower temperature to have the air be absorbed in solution (Boyles Law) then heat up the boiler and drop the pressure and let the air vent near the boiler. Then let the water temperature drop and increase the pressure again to absorb more air from the loops. (…rinse and repeat)
I know you don't have convectors or moniflo tees but the principal will work. The idea is that cold high pressure water absorbs air. It actually makes the air dissolve into the water. Hotter lower pressure water releases air, the air actually bubbles out of the water. This trick kept the mechanic and his dirty boots and fingerprints off of the white panted covers and light colored rugs upstairs.
If you are repiping, and you want to make Boyles Law work to your advantage. Add the air purger right after a valve on the supply port of the boiler. Then pump away from the expansion tank that is connected to the bottom of the air separator.
This piping arrangement actually puts the lowest pressure and the highest temperature of the entire system in the same place, along with the device that can remove the air when it gets there. You will be amazed at how the air just goes away after operating the system for a few hours. all of a sudden radiators that never were hot before will warm up and start heating the rooms.
Re: comms between LWCO and water feed?
my bet is on solder joint to the relay and the relay is supposed to be energized when the level is ok.
mattmia2