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Re: BTU kW Sizing - I am pretty sure this is a stupid question but you decide!
There are two different aspects to this. The first in response to the specific question is that heat pumps are usually (at least in the US) rated in BTUh power, not in KW. Thus you want to compare your boiler power in BTUh to the rated output of the heat pump, also in BTUh. Since you know that your current boiler is more than adequate to meet the house demand, you certainly don't need to go larger — and might or might not be able to go to a smaller unit.
However.
Unlike a boiler, the potential power output of a heat pump falls off at low temperatures, so you also need to do you power comparison using the heat pump output at the lowest temperature you want the unit to provide your heat. My recollection of northern Wisconsin is that it can get a bit chilly, so this will be an important factor. The temperatures at which various heat pumps start losing power, and how much they lose, varies a lot with different models and different makers.
Re: Beckett Oil Burner
Do you have a combustion analyzer? If not, you will need one. If you don't test, you're guessing, and that never works out well.
Re: Minisplit head placement
I would also prefer to put ductwork in. The home will be much more comfortable. Mini splits need to be installed on an exterior wall so you can drain the condensate outside and access the line set fittings from the outside. This limits where you can install the indoor units.
I know you technically can install them on an interior wall, but anytime that is done it becomes a nightmare for service. Condensate drainage usually requires a pump which can be problematic. Personally I think installing them on an interior wall is idiotic.
If you can install a proper ducted system you will be much better off in the long run.
Re: Connecting AC to Hydronic System
Or do you have a hydroair coil in the air handler? Old systems g on the t-stat called the blower on high which is what you need for ac and y was just a junction point to connect the t-stat and condenser contactor. In newer systems y turns the blower on high, so you'd need a second relay for y if you don't have a control in the air handler to do a high blower call with g or y.
mattmia2
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
Ha ha...nope. this what I classify as an an "Antique repair." (such as an old clawfoot tube with the spout below the flood level rim....not going to IXNAY the Old Gem trying to bring it up to 2024 ICC) home has a backflow preventer anyway. Folks dont always have the $$$ to do everything we wanna do. Mad Dog
Re: Best system for Duplex I’m purchasing
@EdTheHeaterMan I think the OP had his mind made up that steam is outdated and inefficient going in.
Re: Minisplit head placement
1 on each floor is probably oversized.
You can’t “Think” about sizing it must be right!
pecmsg
Re: Floor Closet Flange Toilet
It's been a long time since I used brass ballcocks; I have to think back why I switched. I'd pay a premium price for a Wolverine valve, but that wasn't the issue as I always liked using quality components.
It seemed that the washers would easily foul and the toilet would run and run and run. Sometimes the float would hang up on the side of the tank and often, the water level would change and I'd have to bend the float rod to bring it back to the proper level.
The Fluidmaster is just so much easier. The only problem that I have with them is when the very small diameter (~¼") inlet tube gets fouled with a chunk of mineral deposit on older, galvanized water systems, but it's easy to get to and quickly resolved.