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leaky sink trap connection

jumper
jumper Member Posts: 2,458

I saw a youtube of a professional plumber having trouble connecting sink trap. I remember have same problem sometimes. With so little pressure why is there a problem sometimes?

Comments

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,978

    Usually a molding defect in the sealing surfaces of the trap or the compression ferrule or the nut but it could also be various forms of operator error like cross threading the nut or leaving a burr on a metal component or damaged surface of the tubing. The metal components can get dented on the sealing surfaces and have similar problems. The washers rot out after some period of time.

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,061

    Actually there are lots of ways those things can leak. I think I've found most of them the hard way…

    Depends on where it's leaking, though. The drain fitting to the basin? The slip joint (if used?)? The p-trap connections (that's a common one)…

    But if all the sealing rings are in place right side up, and nothing is bent or dented…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    mattmia2
  • jumper
    jumper Member Posts: 2,458

    So do you guys change the works or do you fiddle until there's no drip?

  • Jamie Hall
    Jamie Hall Member Posts: 26,061

    Me? Depends. If it's new work — like a new sink — I have pretty well gotten to the point of changing what's leaking. Between warped sink outlets and oddly oval pipes and defective seal rings… aargh. Trade off between time to trouble shoot and price of the parts. On old work, however, I'll take things apart and see how it was meant to work in the first place and then fiddle and fix…

    Br. Jamie, osb
    Building superintendent/caretaker, 7200 sq. ft. historic house museum with dependencies in New England
    Larry Weingarten
  • Hard to say without watching the video. As much as I love an 18 gauge p-trap, the cheap, plastic ones go together much easier and seem to last longer.

    8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
    mattmia2GGross9326yssh
  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,978

    Plastic never rots out. Can't really say that about brass.

  • EdTheHeaterMan
    EdTheHeaterMan Member Posts: 10,562

    I FIND THAT IT DEPENDS ON HOW SERIOUS THE LEEK IS

    Screenshot 2025-06-03 at 8.53.12 PM.png

    Of course this one looks pretty serious.

    Edward Young Retired

    After you make that expensive repair and you still have the same problem, What will you check next?

    GGrossPC7060
  • EBEBRATT-Ed
    EBEBRATT-Ed Member Posts: 17,944

    The slip brass fittings are not the best. I usually prefer metal over plastic but not in this case.

  • mattmia2
    mattmia2 Member Posts: 12,978

    Brass comes in different weights too, the heavy stuff is expensive.

  • 8.33 lbs./gal. x 60 min./hr. x 20°ΔT = 10,000 BTU's/hour

    Two btu per sq ft for degree difference for a slab
    EdTheHeaterManLarry WeingartendelcrossvPC7060
  • delcrossv
    delcrossv Member Posts: 2,181

    I do notice there is a big difference in the compression nuts I get from my plumbing supplier and HD .

    Sloppy tolerances and too short threads equals problems snugging them up.

    Trying to squeeze the best out of a Weil-McLain JB-5 running a 1912 1 pipe system.
    Mad Dog_2
  • pecmsg
    pecmsg Member Posts: 6,158