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Re: What is the best wrench for removing 1" plug?
and as addendum to the earliest comments on the thred, you really can't get by, in my opinion, without a set of 4 or 8 point sockets. the 8's are easier to come by, e.g. http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2858-2-Inch-8-Point-13-Piece/dp/B003XIJ82M/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1417649071&sr=8-9&keywords="8+point+socket"
I use these things all the time. among other things to drive taps where i don't have room to turn a traditional wing handled tap wrench.
I use these things all the time. among other things to drive taps where i don't have room to turn a traditional wing handled tap wrench.
Re: What is the best wrench for removing 1" plug?
The Brass Pressure Relief Valve will turn off very, Very easily. As I said way earlier, take that off, take the elbow off, put a Tee on there, remount the Relief Valve upright on top and put a 3/4 inch plug in the end to use for skimming. Sometimes we get engrossed in defeating the beast and we forget our original goal (which is an acceptable way to skim this boiler).
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Re: Recently had thermocouple changed now problems with spitting gurgling pilot light
The use of wire nuts is a common practice and nothing at all wrong with it if done properly. I've yet to see a boiler straight from the factory that doesn't have a wire nut or two on them. The guy made a mistake. We all do. If its an exposed wire, it has to be carrying low voltage 24 volts. Sounds to me like he corrected his mistake?
As far as the pilot noise, that should be looked at. You certainly shouldn't have a yellow flame after yearly maintenance.
As far as the pilot noise, that should be looked at. You certainly shouldn't have a yellow flame after yearly maintenance.
Re: Recently had thermocouple changed now problems with spitting gurgling pilot light
you have to repair everything with the parts that are meant to be used. jury rigging not accepted for permanent solution. call them back to fix it right away.
the parts have to be replaced with the proper parts. after that is done then an evaluation can be made further if problem is not fixed. this problem may be caused by this temporary solution by the tech.
the parts have to be replaced with the proper parts. after that is done then an evaluation can be made further if problem is not fixed. this problem may be caused by this temporary solution by the tech.

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Re: Navien CH210 LP exhaust CO levels upwards of 3000 ppm?
I don't care what Navien tells you all that is bull. Something is definitely wrong when you get that high a CO reading at any time. We want to see less than 100 PPM CO at all times. The ANSI allowable 400 PPM is not what we shoot for.
Also telling you to jack the pressure up on an LP systems is also a violation. You are getting up into the area of lockup un the second stage regulator when you go past 12.5" W.C.
I would get that thing out of my house if I were you. Shut it off and do not use it, I would not want to read about you in the paper.
I would like to see what a complete set of readings looks like along with a draft reading.
Navien the same people that say you can run 1/2 inch pipe 24 feet without a pressure drop when running at 199,000 BTU's.
I guess I need to go back to school somewhere to learn all about this new equipment and the gas it burns and how all the fundamentals no longer apply.
Also telling you to jack the pressure up on an LP systems is also a violation. You are getting up into the area of lockup un the second stage regulator when you go past 12.5" W.C.
I would get that thing out of my house if I were you. Shut it off and do not use it, I would not want to read about you in the paper.
I would like to see what a complete set of readings looks like along with a draft reading.
Navien the same people that say you can run 1/2 inch pipe 24 feet without a pressure drop when running at 199,000 BTU's.
I guess I need to go back to school somewhere to learn all about this new equipment and the gas it burns and how all the fundamentals no longer apply.
Re: What do I do now that the tenant flooded the 1-pipe steam system?
Sadly you may find that there has been damage to some of the vents, or you ay discover that the excess pressure has created leaks where there never were leaks before. Check thoroughly. Also not all the water may have drained from some of the runouts or radiators, and you may have some water hammer for a while.
Re: What do I do now that the tenant flooded the 1-pipe steam system?
i've encountered this before. what you really mean by bleeding is that the site glass valve was opened to let the rusty water out. the tenants did that and then turned the boiler fill valve on and didn't turn it off all the way and the water filled all the radiators.
providing the radiators are pitched toward the pipe all you do is put a hose on the boiler drain valve on the bottom and run the hose into the floor drain..the boiler won't drain if you raise the hose above the drain valve.
when the level in the siteglass is halfway then turn the drain valve off. monitor the water color in site glass and see if it is really dark..if so..turn off boiler at some point. you'd be best to let it cool down a bit then drain it. you can drain it hot but if you forget and put cold water into boiler when hot you may crack it.
the next thing is to check the boiler feed valve,washer,etc....then take the tenants downstairs and instruct them on the proper filling of the boiler.
i don't know if the water in the basement came from the top floors, from the main vents, weak relief valve...you check that out too...now put fans all over the place and run them continually for a few days to dry things out.
put the heat on too to help dry the house out.
providing the radiators are pitched toward the pipe all you do is put a hose on the boiler drain valve on the bottom and run the hose into the floor drain..the boiler won't drain if you raise the hose above the drain valve.
when the level in the siteglass is halfway then turn the drain valve off. monitor the water color in site glass and see if it is really dark..if so..turn off boiler at some point. you'd be best to let it cool down a bit then drain it. you can drain it hot but if you forget and put cold water into boiler when hot you may crack it.
the next thing is to check the boiler feed valve,washer,etc....then take the tenants downstairs and instruct them on the proper filling of the boiler.
i don't know if the water in the basement came from the top floors, from the main vents, weak relief valve...you check that out too...now put fans all over the place and run them continually for a few days to dry things out.
put the heat on too to help dry the house out.

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Built in check valves in circulators? Advantages and Dis-advantages?
Why are these small check valves sometimes removed? I just replaced a Grundfos with a 3 speed 15-58 with a built in check valve. I left it in, however, why would they ever be removed?

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Re: Contractor needs a double check on EDR
Are you doing a drop header?
A drop header can be almost touching the top of the boiler as long as the risers go up 24-30" above the top of the boiler first. With a drop header, it's the height of the risers that count, not the header as long as it's not below the top of the boiler..
A drop header can be almost touching the top of the boiler as long as the risers go up 24-30" above the top of the boiler first. With a drop header, it's the height of the risers that count, not the header as long as it's not below the top of the boiler..

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