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Re: This weeks case, the case of the boiler descaler
It ruined both boilers and several hundred feet of pipe. It plugged steam traps, control valves, strainers. The good news is I sold two new boilers.
Re: Testing whether a pump is running
Energy is being delivered to the pump which is what the Danfoss tool picks up and identifies. In your case, that electrical energy is heating the pump instead of turning the impeller.
You can call it, "The case of the overheating pump.".
You can call it, "The case of the overheating pump.".
Re: This weeks case, the case of the boiler descaler
The water treatment didn't work as advertised? Say it aint so!
2
Re: Cast-Iron Radiator Restoration: Removing old pipe nipple to make way for new fittings
Important to note if you're going to use a tap to clean the threads. The tap is tapered, therefore do not run that tap all the way through or your nipple will be loose. Yes, I did this very thing about 25 years ago on my living-room radiator and had to use a ton of Teflon tape and auto form-a-gasket to fix it. I check it every year for a leak, none yet, but boy did I feel like a total idiot after pulling that little number!

3
Re: Pressuretrol and low pressure gauge
A lot of the old huge HRT boilers with a 8' diameter steam drum x 20' long they would sometimes mount the pressure controls on a manifold mounted on the wall about 6' up and run 3/4" pipe or 3/8 OD copper tubing over to it from the boiler with flare fittings. Otherwise you needed a 10 or 12' step ladder to climb up and adjust the controls.
I never liked that only because I was concerned the pipe or tubing would plug up. So we would put a valve on the tubing or pipe for a blow down.
That was ok except if someone forgot to close the blowdown valve the controls wouldn't sense over pressure with the long run of small pipe feeding the controls.
So I would put the high limit control (or the manual reset now) up on the boiler and just put the modulation control and operating control down on the wall.
I never liked that only because I was concerned the pipe or tubing would plug up. So we would put a valve on the tubing or pipe for a blow down.
That was ok except if someone forgot to close the blowdown valve the controls wouldn't sense over pressure with the long run of small pipe feeding the controls.
So I would put the high limit control (or the manual reset now) up on the boiler and just put the modulation control and operating control down on the wall.
Re: New 3 floor NCB-240 Setup Using 3/4" zone valves.
I just got your ping. But I will pong it to @hot_rod. He is the man with all the books on Cv. Personally I'm a Cd kind of guy. Although I do have a decent vinyl collection too. I might even have a few old cassette tapes in a box in the basement. I keep them with my floppy disk collection.
Re: Honeywell Mechanical Thermostat Calibration
If there was a meme of someone throwing something into a trash can or a bonfire, this would be a good place for it. Wait...think I found one.
https://youtu.be/FhOy6YAQmpI?si=dIGJgEXXKbSxGh_Y

Re: Pressuretrol and low pressure gauge
That will work.
Probably will violate the warranty but we do that every day anyhow.LOL
Probably will violate the warranty but we do that every day anyhow.LOL
Re: Any boiler can easily become a combi
I will say when a combi boiler fails to make DHW, or flow drops off, it can be a job to repair them. The boiler needs to be down to disassemble the DHW "module", so no heat either...I love that you even have a Caleffi Boiler and Caleffi pegboard
...To build your own external DHW "combi" module you need a circulator, heat exchanger and flow switch with a single switching relay box.
For most homes you would want at least 100,000 BTU boiler. This is my shop and I have it connected to a 55,000 Lochinvar Knight. It covers a hand sink and hose to wash the truck.

I would have gone with the standard pegboard from Home Depot