Best Of
Radiant Therapy.....
Working summers since age 9, 8 years of tackle football, 5 years of rugby, 40 years of Plumbing & yanking boiler sections up & out of basements takes it toll…Usually don't sleep well or more than a few hours at a clip.
This morning at 3am I plunked down on the mudroom floor with a pillow & blanket with my trusty GSHP Tillman & slept like a baby for 3.5 hours!!
Hot bath without the jacuzzi...Mad Dog
Re: Radiant Therapy.....
There are claims that properly grounding the body while you sleep can help with a lot of health issues. I get adds for grounding pads regularly, but haven’t really looked into it.
Maybe there’s something to it?
Ironman
Re: Replacing an old/inefficient oil burner with...an oil burner (?) Or...?
Gut feeling: based on your two choices, the Peerless. But I agree with @Ironman about the Buderus over the Peerless. I am looking at the age of the occupants of the home and regardless of the cost to operate the Peerless has all the regular parts that every oil burner repair man can easily make work.
Assumptions:
- You need to replace it for a legitimate reason. (not just to get a new more efficient system.)
- You want the system to last at least 20 years (you can expect 30+ years)
- You need something that is easy to maintain
- The age of the occupants precludes DIY service
- The price of the system and/or the oil is not an issue
In other circumstances, I would go with System 2000. The lower cost of operation will outshine any cast iron boiler with standard oil burner controls Also I like the Buderus Oil Fired boilers better than the Peerless
As far as a GreenStar, I like them also, however there are parts and systems on the boiler that require special knowledge, parts and training to get the maintenance and some repairs completed properly. The life expectancy may be less than 20 years putting the possibility of a replacement being needed during the time frame of your occupancy. And at a time when you are much older and less able to deal with that situation.
Re: Radiant Therapy.....
That's right German Short-Haired Pointer…Ground Source Heat Pump....
Re: Estimated life expectancy?
I was referring to the 3 pass Steamax, I have not seen enough on the newer pro boilers to have an opinion one way or another.
Please excise my typos, my fingers don't always listen to my alleged brain.
Bob
BobC
Re: Need a tech for HTP EL-110 boiler in Bay Area
I'm in Berkeley. (510)773-9870 mobile
Re: Looking for advice on balancing the system in my house to to help with heat and clanging
You could replace that section easier than you think.
Stand on the stairs, cut it in half and remove both halves. You got plenty of room to swing a big pipe wrench in the stairway.
Get two new halves, cut to fit, with a black union in the middle. Measure the thread engagement on both of the removed halves to calculate the new lengths. Subtract the length of the union BUT add the engagement lengths
Probably prove your thesis faster than a camera………..AND, you don't have any easy way to get the camera in there without cutting the pipe.
LRCCBJ
Re: BURNHAM V905( 5 Section) W/ Carlin 301 CRD
You shutoff the fuel as close to the tank as possible.
Start the burner (you'll need to jump the safety after it starts).
Run it for about 30 seconds and watch the vacuum gauge. It will climb up to 12-15" or so vacuum.
Watch the gauge.
Shutoff the burner.
Watch the gauge.
It will drop………..maybe 2"………….and STOP. It will stay at that reading……………indefinitely………….IF you don't have a suction leak AND the pump seal is good.
If it slowly falls over the next 15 minutes…………….you DO have a suction leak or a leaky pump seal.
If it quickly falls to zero (in one minute or so), you have a BIG suction leak and now must locate it.
LRCCBJ
Re: Burner technicians -what’s going on in this industry?
No need for the VCR, @Grallert. 😊 You can find the Dead Men's Steam School on our YouTube channel here:
Re: Snow melt slab insulation
I must just be in too cold of a climate to grasp some of this because around here 99% of the residential snowmelt idles below a set air temp because the people getting it installed do not ever want snow or ice on their driveway. I think if I told an installer not to insulate the slab because 2-3 days out of the year when the ground actually isn't frozen but its suddenly snowing, and the sun is out, they could melt snow for an hour or two with the grounds latent heat they would fire me. Spend a little extra during those rare cases where the ground could melt the slab for a short time, or spend more money heating the ground the entire melt season, it seems an easy choice for me, for the end user in my town it was never a question they want no chance of snow or ice 24/7.
GGross