Best Of
Re: Changing out a heat pump stand with unit in situ
Thanks for the input and advice!
I have a metaltech scaffold here (the yellow one), and I think the best option would be to set that up safely over the unit, then put a ladder horizontally across the rungs on the two uprights (and lock them into place with clamps), and then attach ratchet straps over the ladder and under the unit on both sides (and maybe add a pair of back-up ratchet straps on the insides of the legs of the heat pump in case of - hopefully unlikely - slippage.
If I do it carefully I think this should work well. As long as there's no swing back and forth as this would make the unit want to pull away from the lines, but correct positioning of the ladder should be able to prevent this.
Re: New Rinnai boiler overheating very quickly but no hot water?
Well… I believe I am looking at the correct manual. Where is the Boiler pump in your install ? It acts like there is no water flow through the boiler. No boiler pump (circulator) #11 below.
109A_5
Re: state 80 gallon electric heater extra charge for instructions
Good morning, folks. I work for Laars. We are asked frequently for conversion instructions and stickers. Either the contractor wants an "official" one from us, or an inspector does. When someone needs an instruction sheet, we offer to email a pdf, but still some people want a "real" one shipped. I know it seems like a very small thing, but there are real costs associated with selling these. Just like contractors have costs that people may not think about like insurance, training, employee benefits, stock, vehicle registration/maintenance, etc. We pay a vendor for these items, and pay people to order them, receive them, store them, pick them, pack them, ship them, etc.. No different than the process to get controls, gas valves and blowers, etc., in house and out to a job.
Anyway…. just wanted you to hear my side of things. Have a great day, and thanks for all you do!
Joannie
Re: state 80 gallon electric heater extra charge for instructions
Thank you, @Joannie , for that clear answer! The price quoted for assembling a change packet is actually quite reasonable — these things don't happen for free.
There is also a reason for not including a variety of connection or other options in the original install manuals. I regret to say that they may not be read at all by many people — and worse, that they may be really confusing for people who lack basic knowledge (thermostats are even worse — when they say something like connect the red wire to this screw and the white to that one… and the wire colours aren't the "standard" one…). Having a specific and complete instruction package for a particular modification — and charging enough for it so that when the installer calls for help for a non-standard situation — isn't being petty.
And last, as comment on us — the denizens of The Wall. I hope no one has ever figured out just how much free — and top quality — advice some of these folks are giving out here… it's staggering.
Re: home boiler replacement in spring, eastern Upper Peninsula MI
Straits heating and cooling in St Ignace knows hydronics. I have known the owner of the company to drive to the lower peninsula to grab parts after hours for his customers, and from all of my dealings with him he is committed to doing good work.
GGross
Re: Dream of skimming leads to rabbit hole
1.The header has no swing joints which could possibly damage the boiler. However the length of the header is so short the amount of expansion may not be enough to cause an issue.
2.The header is pitched wrong (as you mentioned) but the amount of condensate in the header is not much so if the boiler is quiet skip that
3.Same with the indirect. If you are getting enough hot water leave it. but the indirect
4.The horizontal run on the Hartford loop is too long. Again, no noise leave it
5.I do not like the safety relief valve on the long horizontal tapping. The relief valve must be mounted upright and should be directly on the boiler
6. I have no Idea what the xtra low water cutoff are for.
The guy that installed this never reads an install manual "I have been doing this for 40 years" Yeah, 40 years of doing it wrong.
If it seems to work ok, I would leave it alone except for the two things I am most concerned about.
The location of the safety valve (which may be the skim tapping)
and the header with no swing joints.
If you read the manual, it mentions the safety valve being vertical
it shows swing joints and a 3" header (depending on the boiler size)
It shows not to do a "BULL HEAD TEE" with the steam outlet between the boiler tapping's.
I think your skim tapping is below the black switching relay on the left side of the boiler. It's an 1 1/4" tapping according to the manual
Re: Dream of skimming leads to rabbit hole
The only way to escape the rabbit hole is to not start down it in the first place. (Or maybe kill the red queen, I forget. It's been a while.)
Like Br. @Jamie Hall said, if it ain't broke there's no need to start fixing it.
ratio
Re: Dream of skimming leads to rabbit hole
Well… there are a number of things which aren't really right, but —
You mentioned the bottom line. It's working, giving you good heat and apparently not bugging you with noises or other nuisances.
So, in my view, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I would look at the pressuretrol; it may be set higher than it needs to be (ideally it would cutout at about 2 psig or a bit less). That's easy.
On the indirect piping: you need as much head on the inlet side of the pump as possible, so having that come from the bottom of the boiler, though it seems odd, is probably not a problem at all (the boiler water will be pretty well mixed to the same temperature throughout when the boiler is running).
On skimming. There may be a helpful fitting somewhere — but see my first comment. If it's working… leave it alone.
Re: Dream of skimming leads to rabbit hole
As much as I agree with " So, in my view, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. ". . .
And as much as you have the itch to get it set up as close to what the manual states as possible and the boiler is not too old. I would wait to Spring to do the work. For two reasons, time to plan over the winter, planning on what needs to go where AND if something unexpected happens you have all summer to get it straightened out. I don't like messing with stuff that is not urgent prior to or during the heating season.
If the water line is fairly stable when steaming and the system runs quiet it may not need skimming.
How many gallons of water is this ???!!! 311 ? Is there a leak ?
109A_5
Re: Dunham valve rebuild?
Bingo. Was required for recertification of the boiler room after having sat unused for so long.
