Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.

Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.

Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.

If our community has helped you, please consider making a contribution to support this website. Thanks!

Best Of

Re: OT What is this metal piece found in excavation?

galvanized will bend but it takes a lot of force. lead bends more easily. galvanized that has been in the ground for decades unless it is a very dry climate usually is very rusty. if it was a cistern that would have clay pipe from the downspouts going in to it and pipes returning to the house.

mattmia2

Re: Accidentaly hit PEX with nail. Above subfloor radiant heat

I had a similar problem about 15 years ago when our plasterer managed to slit the PAP tube in a warmboard installation. I wound up shortening the loop by routing a new return into the floor which provided slack to effect the repair. I cut out the damaged portion and poked both of the ends through the subfloor into the cavity below where I used the manufacturers recommended compression fitting to splice the tube in a location where I could more easily get at it if I ever had an issue in the future (thinking it would be a lot easier to cut and patch some drywall from below than to pull up and repair a hardwood floor). I haven't had any issues so far…

Phil_17

Re: Capacitor Help Please!

Yeah, probably not the DC Bus capacitors. Not a high failure item. However if you really want to try your luck changing them (probably soldered to a circuit board as previously mentioned) Digikey.com or Mouser.com. More likely there is a much smaller aluminum electrolytic capacitor that the ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) is now too high and the switching controller won't start .

This looks disconnected, if so was it on purpose ?

109A_5

Re: Cold Radiator

Great observational skills by 109A_5. And per mattmitch an indication that I have not lived a good, clean life.

On closer inspection of that rear notch where the pipe appears lower I find that a PVC waste pipe was added as part of a bathroom install or rehab. The PVC is exactly in the line of where the steam pipe should be so I’m guessing they just lowered the steam pipe. Marvelous.

Looks like I will get a proposal for rerouting steam pipe in a way that eliminates the “C” loop.

mdmhh256

Re: Cold Radiator

cute

Jamie Hall

Re: Any new feelings about Stay Brite 8 soldering vs brazing?

I do commercial refrigeration. For controls, valves and parts that may be removed and or changed down the road it makes life much easier.
Line sets we still braze with N2.

I do NOT use it on discharge lines steel to copper. A few issues in the past so back to 45% on that joint.

pecmsg

Re: Forced hot water heat options in small pantry?

you have maybe an 800 btu load, if it received no other heat, which it does

Put a 150W incandescent light 💡 in there

hot_rod

Re: Help Sizing A Multi-Zone Mini Split System - Minimum Capacity?

"Is it worth considering Mitsubishi Hyper Heat (-13F) vs "Standard" (-5F)? The design temp that I've seen so far has been around 6F."

The big difference between the hyper heat and standard units isn't the operating temperature, it's how much capacity they keep at low temperatures. The unit I linked to earlier is hyper heat, it's rated 34K BTU/hr at 47F and 32K BTU/hr at 5F — so it keeps almost all of its capacity.

This is a similarly-sized standard unit: https://ashp.neep.org/#!/product/214502/7/25000/95/7500/0///0

It's rated 40K at 47F and 20K at 5F.

When it comes to heat pumps, the nameplate capacity is meaningless. You're never going to need more heat at 47F than at 5F. What you care about is low temperature. That 40K unit is really a 20K unit.

My recommendation would be to only look at units that could satisfy your entire heating load at a temperature between your design temperature and your average annual minimum (-1F). When you're doing a new install there's no reason not to give yourself the ability to go all-electric in the future.