Best Of
Re: Literature on Geothermal
Here is an out and back system in upstate NY, 35K load. 4 loops of 1" HDPE, 1000' loops. It's been covering the load for a few winters now.
hot_rod
Re: NJ Boiler replacement decision points...
Then get a heating only boiler and keep your standalone water heater. It's a valid concern.
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
Run to failure..unless you have extra disposal income....Mad Dog
Re: Near boiler piping/replacement boiler
If it's not broke don't fix it.
Get quotes on new boilers (you will be shocked). Then start saving. Do an accurate heat loss and get the right size equipment and the right contractor.
Consider an Energy Kinetics boiler.
Re: Need advice: What type of HVAC system & capacity to install, 3-bedroom house
Yes. My mother has a Carrier heat pump that looks and acts just like a central air condensor unit but also can provide heat. It's like 15 years old. This is a solved problem.
For your domestic hot water, do not install an indirect. The cost is astronomical. Just use a standalone water heater, natural gas, heat pump, or even straight electric.
For your boiler, maybe there is some magic solution out there, but for me it will always be a standard efficiency natural gas atmospheric. They run and run and run and are easily fixed when something like the thermocouple fails. It seems to me that these HE models can't possibly compete given their maintenance requirements and short lives, regardless of efficiency.
Re: NJ Boiler replacement decision points...
I'm a proponent of combi units and have owned 6 different brands and models. You will want at least a 120K if you expect 3 gpm.
The output for DHW is directly tied to the incoming water temperature. Any idea what your lowest water temperature drops to?
The math look like this 500 X flow X temperature difference.
So 500 X 3 gpm 110- 55° = 82,000 BTU/hr. a 120 boiler at 85% efficiency= 102,000, BTU/hr.
The next number that you want to know is the heat load, but if the 80K munchkin has been adequate, it is safe to assume 80K or less.
A 120 Combi will turn down to 11,000 BTU/ hr output so it word work well for both DHW and heat.
If you want to run multiple showers or DHW loads, add up the required gpm to size a larger combi. A 150K would get you close to 5 gpm.
I think 3-3.5 gallons per minute is realistic with a 120 combi in your area.
Every few years you may need to de-scale the HX, easily done with a pump and bucket kit. I suggest current mod cons have a 15 year or so life expectancy. Parts availability will be the issue.
We do see 20 year old Munchkins and other brands cross the list occasionally.
Proper installation, adjustments and service are the key in my opinion.
hot_rod
Re: A Tribute to Rod Jermain
Jill,
How nice it is to meet you! It is especially nice to know that Rod's family is aware of the tremendous, good work that he did on this board. He was especially thoughtful and kind in the way he went about it, and I can safely say that everyone on here that interacted with him, thought of him as a friend.
Dave
Re: Snowmelt magician!
Energy, like water and other resources, flows towards money.
A 3rd home so they use it a few weeks a year, maybe never some years? Typical of many of the large SIM projects in ski town trophy homes.
hot_rod