Best Of
Re: Advice for replacing a Bell & Gossett 2-1/2" with a Grundfos
A cushion clamp is what you need for this and perhaps a rubber cushion at the base to absorb more vibration.
Generally, when you have vibration like this the bearings are going bad and all you may need is a new circulator assembly.
You will know if the motor end bearing is bad if the shaft can be pushed/moved too as the outer race will be bad as well.
If you have an engine stethescope you can quickly identify bearing noise and cavitation/air bubbles being generated in the circulator housing too indicating a severely worn volute.
Before you waste your money, invest in an engine stethescope to listen to the noises being made as you will quickly find the cause.
leonz
Re: expansion tank sizing
yes am gona have it swinged away from boiler the picture was just to show new ex-tank beining installed on return side a 12-15" far from the pump ,so it can pump away !!
nytech28
Re: Boiler pressure rising and expansion tank location
You do not need a check valve. You have zone valves. In the future when you have both zones operating, the zone valves will do the opening and closing of each circuit. A check valve in a pump can only make for problems when a closed zone valve is able to isolate the pump (with IFC) from the expansion tank. NO CHECK NEEDED. The fact that there is no check valve means that your boiler pressure rising issue is not associated with the IFC in the pump because it is not there!!!
Re: Where can I add a scoop and air vent
Where are you going to get 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" zone valves for that old radiator zone
Not all the pipes are visible in this photo:
There is a 1-1/2" supply that exits the top of the boiler on the side where the Aquastat relay is mounted. That Aquastat relay is actually mounted on a 1-1/2" x 3/4" x 1-1/2" Tee fitting. The Red arrow indicates the vertical 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 vertical supply riser. The three returns are also designed poorly, but it has worked for years so no need to change it out now. (if it ain't broke don't fix it). Just when the replacement boiler shows up, have someone that understands proper piping practices prepare the piping properly! Say that 10 times fast.
The best spot to place a Discal would be on that riser. indicated in the drawing and the photo. You will need a repipe of that vertical so you can add a short horizontal for the air separator. That will be a bandaid until you do a complete repipe with the new boiler. The proper fix is to start from the boiler and put all the circulators on the supply side after the Discal where you mount the extrol tank under it. Get the book .
Re: Plan Review: Basement Hydronic Convector Wall (DIY)
it a surface area game with a radiant panel. The wall has a lot of sq ft, so it will run at a lower temperature than a panel radiator. And two, in this case the selling feature, it is invisible. No obstruction in the living space to furnish around.
The heat output of any radiant panel is predictable. In this case the formula is near identical to a panel radiator.
Although some panel radiators have a convection component. Space between the chambers with a finned metal partition. That will factor into the output.
It will also move dust around
The output from a radiant wall, ceiling, or floor are fairly close. The ceiling and walls can run higher surface temperatures= higher output compared to a floor panel.
The walls have a slight edge over a ceiling as you will get some temperature stratification with ceiling radiant, lowering it’s output a bit compared to a wall
Some of the old electric radiant ceilings ran pretty hot. Too warm to keep your hand in for a long period. Being tall, they make my head uncomfortably warm.
hot_rod
Re: Condensate tank pump noise/leak
that’s a sign of a seal leak.
as far as the noise it has to be opened to know.
pecmsg
Re: Adding thermal purge to oil boiler with 2 zones
A Hydrostat 3250 plus would give you thermal purge, and if you change the well, LWCO. It also gives you circulator hold off and economy features, and indicator lights…and a more accurate temperature thermistor.
Seems like a better way to go, and like @HVACNUT said, anyone can easily work on it/troubleshoot. Not much more money than anything you make yourself.
Becket used to have a control that did this.
And of course this is SOP for an Energy Kinetics.
Re: Nest thermostat
Is the Nest hooked up two wire or three wire? Do you have a common "C" wire hooked to the Nest?
Re: Why Your Classroom Unit Ventilator Blows Cold Air and Why Thats Normal, this weeks video
In theory, a univent is a wonderful thing — when it's working properly as described. Except for that decidedly cool draught. And having been on both sides of the equation, I can't say that I was happy with the cool draught when I was teaching in spaces with univents…
But, they are cheap to install and relatively efficient.
Really old schools — and I had some to deal with in Vermont — had steam radiators on the walls. Nice and cozy and warm. Ventilation (these were farming communities, and you do need ventilation!) was provided by air outlet grilles in each room which went into a flue which extended through the roof — that pulled the stale air out quite nicely, and infiltration through the windows was the makeup air. Many times those flues had radiators in the bottom to help increase the draught.
Efficiency was… um… poor. But they worked.
