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These seem to be common in the UK. The UK is the largest boiler market, but now being taken over by A2WHPs.

It shouldn't be too hard to insulate a tank in your attic?

Ray please have a look at these reddit posts. Sponsored content, and what is acceptable for you and your audience is a really deep subject with a whole lot of opinions, there is an entire segment of youtube videos that discuss this at length. Normally I would say if it doesn't compromise the content then have at it. As a viewer most sponsored ads are fine to me, I don't like when product review channels take sponsors from products they might otherwise review, or in the case of music channels the ones that are advertising their own AI replacement currently.

https://www.reddit.com/r/PartneredYoutube/comments/1hkwoom/is_temu_sponsorship_legit/

https://www.reddit.com/r/PartneredYoutube/comments/197n1yx/i_received_an_email_today_from_temu_looking_to/

Yes, it is still called an open to air expansion tank

Please keep in mind that you need marine plywood to cover the stock tank and under the tank and pressure treated lumber under the full sheet of marine plywood that is on the joist stringers.

You need to spread the weight of the stock watering tank over a wide area so you need to be sure to have enough dimensional lumber under the tank and heavy 1 inch marine plywood under the tank as well as on the tank lid.

A 55 gallon barrel will not be large enough to give you a buffer in an overhead open to air tank, a stock watering tank will. The galvanized stock tank will have a drain plug that you can use for the drop pipe to the radiators and a solder joint can be used to connect the hot water riser.

The problem you will have and continue to have is excess moisture in the attic. If you can have a drip pan soldered together with a drain hole that you can attach a hose to drain to a laundry sink all the better.

If you purchased an open to air expansion saddle tank and hang it from the roof trusses you could avoid moisture in your attic by having the drain line come into the living space rather than through the attic.

There are trade-offs with the buffer tank size. The larger the tank the more thermal lag you have on a cold start as the tank needs to warm.

But more tank capacity gives you more "no fire" run time.

The over-heat function seems to be the tank in the attic. If you plan on boiling that for protection you will need to continually add water.

Adding water continues to add scaling minerals to the system. And wasted energy

Those heat exchangers inside the firebox can be hard to control, especially when the fireplace is running for heat also. The basic concept for excessive hot water production is "use it or lose it" same with large thermal arrays in the summer.

This is a common solid fueled beast used in the US. Large water content to buffer, open unpressurized, wood mess is outside.

The zone valve connection information has been out there probably for decades but folks refuse to read the instructions and/or if they do they still decide to do things wrong. Steam boiler near boiler piping is a classic example of not following instructions.

With the White Rodgers 1361 zone valve, a relay is not needed if the zone valve is wired correctly to the system and the Taco document explains why. A transformer failing after 9 years of service is most likely just a transformer failure especially if no NEW actual underlying system issue is found.

Generally transformers are very reliable, but they do fail.

Nothing wrong with isolation relays, even if you don't need them, except you have added another device to the system that can also fail.

This below is more like Lawyer CYA speak than Electrical Engineering.

you are sure both circulators are spinning?

The coil could thermosiphon from the boiler imitating a plugged coil?

what are the temps at the 4 ports of the tank?