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Re: steam vs vapor system
Hmm. Two of them and a toggle relay would duplicate a vaporstat. Hi limit closes-toggle off, low limit opens-toggle on.
Re: Super hot mini boiler no power
Seems the troubleshooting guide is a bit vague in your case.
I believe this is the wiring diagram. There is a 2.5 Amp fuse on the 24 VAC side. A multimeter could be used to verify the power.
https://alliedboilers.com/wp-content/ProductDocuments/MG/MG%20Installation%20%26%20Service%20Manual%20%28S9361A%29.pdf
109A_5
Re: Boiler harmonics/piping fix
I haven't posted lately because I felt insulted. My nature is to be helpful & hopeful rather than hurtful. Kinda like Ed. But, I felt compelled to address this post.
Eric, I have, in any installation, rules that I always try to follow. The supply piping into any pump, 10 to 12 pipe diameters of straight pipe and 5 pipe diameters of straight pipe on the output of the pump before any directional change in flow. Common Manifold piping should be generously sized. ( I don't know whether yours is 1" or 1 1/4". You have 3 zones of 3/4" pipe at 4 GPM for 12 GPM when all zones are operating. The Common Manifold piping should be sized for that.) The Extank should be on the imput to the pump(s). Yours appears to be. I always pump into the highest pressure loss in a circuit. The Air Eliminator should be on the hottest water from the boiler. Yours is kinda iffy. There are more rules, but let me say that I like an install to be as aesthetically pleasing and symmetrical and minimal as possible. Yours, Eric, is not. Let's address the Delta T.
The Delta T is not sacrosanct, but it does indicate how a system is functioning. A 10 deg Delta T can lead to short cycling of the boiler and a 50 deg Delta T can indicated an undersized boiler, excessively long heat emitters, an excessively high heat exchange rate to the environment, etc. This is my thinking on your sys as to the Delta T. (The reason for a bypass valve is to prevent or minimize boiler condensation. All boilers condense at some point in the heating cycle. The idea is to prevent sustained condensation which is destructive to the flue and boiler heat exchanger.) The boiler bypass valve between the input and the output of the boiler is a ball valve. It appears to me to be 1" piping and valve. This means that the valve would have to be 97% closed to provide any real regulation. Aside that, a ball valve is a poor choice for bypass valve. You would have been better off with a 1/2" pipe and 1/2" ball valve as it would have given you better regulation. I prefer a Caleffi boiler bypass valve and I have used with great success a Taco I- Series modulating valve with sensor set at 135 degs.
Mixing the hot water from the boiler output to the boiler input will lower the Delta T. What is helping lower the Delta T, also, I think that the Grundfos pump in the common manifold piping. I DO NOT think that that pump is necessary and I would remove it as your diagram shows. I have used your diagram many times and would only change the location of the pump. Per my rules, I would pump into the boiler not away. I do not know the BTU rating of your boiler, but for every 10,000 BTUs you need 1 GPM thru the boiler. So, size the boiler pump on the flow you need to over come the pressure loss of the boiler circuit, which I would think is pretty minimal. Look at the Grundfos UPS26-99FC 3 speed flow chart and select the GPM you need at the pressure loss and select the proper speed or maybe a different pump. One last thing before I close this comment.
As the boiler reaches 170 deg when the harmonics start, close the bypass valve and see if that makes a difference and measure the Delta T. Also, I would put balancing valves on the output zone piping to the Common Manifold and set them to about 4GPM. This would balance out your 3 circuits so that the greatest flow wouldn't be going thru the shortest circuit. I like Caleffi Quick Setter balancing valves.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-132552A-3-4-NPT-QuickSetter-Balancing-Valve-w-Flow-Meter
Re: When did pressure relief valves become standard?
There's a lot of sarcasm in this discussion. Please be respectful and follow site rules. We're all here to learn from one another, not to tear each other down. Thank you.
Re: oil boiler seems clogged, no flow
It looks like you have Teflon tape hanging off the flare connection on the oil line at the pump? If that's the way the oil line connections have been made I would be concerned about a suction line air leak. Most of the underground tanks I have encountered are not gravity fed to the burner and require a leak free tight suction line.
Again, a push/pull hand pump could easily be used to figure out what is going on. As well as an oil pump pressure and vacuum gauge manifold.
Re: oil boiler seems clogged, no flow
For the tank to be gravity fed under all conditions (including when you open it up at the filter), the tank must be bottom fed and the bottom of the tank must be ABOVE the burner.
With a top fed tank, the moment you opened both the valve and bleeder screw at the same time, air will be drawn into the system when all the oil in the vertical tube (within the tank) falls back to the level of fuel in the tank..
If this is the situation, you simply must bleed the pump for a few minutes. You do that by starting the burner and quickly put a jumper wire across the the terminals for the cad cell on the 7184. The burner will continue to run until you shut it down yourself. You open the bleeder screw on the pump and run some clear plastic tubing into a one gallon container. Watch the tubing and look for the air. If you still get nothing, after a minute or so…………..you DO have bigger issues, but I seriously doubt it.
Did you change the filter because the burner shut down or just preventative maintenance?
What did the filter look like? Black……….yes, I know. But did it have particulates in it that you can feel?
LRCCBJ
Re: System2000 water tank leaking
There is nothing special about the std storage tank… You can very easily modify an electric WH to fit.
I have done it a number of times.
kcopp
Re: Pressure/Booster Pump for Residence with Low Water Pressure & Flow
Put a pressure gauge after the meter and check the pressure with nothing running. Then turn on both showers and see what happens. If the pressure holds or only drops a little the problem is in the house. If the pressure drops a lot get the water company back.
Re: Pressure/Booster Pump for Residence with Low Water Pressure & Flow
If your static pressure is around 40 psig, that is ample. What you are seeing, though, is somewhere in your system there is a big flow restriction. Without going over the plumbing rather carefully, it's hard to say what — but it could be as simple as a partly closed valve somewhere.
Before you go the expense and trouble of putting in a booster, you need to find that restriction — because if the booster is on the low pressure side of the restriction, it will work poorly if at all. They are designed to take ample water, but at low pressure, and boost that — but you don't have ample water.
Re: Testing a Taco i100C3R-1 Mixing Valve? -- SOLVED
Sounds to me your first step is to flush out the entire system …Use the flush to find and remove any blockage… The water problem is another issue …
Big Ed_4