Best Of
Re: Equalizer Return
For better or worse, I'm one of those folks who not only want to know what we usually do — or what we may be required to do — but why. When I was younger I drove folks nuts that way — parents and teachers! — and I still do it, many decades on. Sorry…
Re: Equalizer Return
@clammy can't say I agree 100%. I certainly agree that everyone should be installing proper equalizers. But it is equally important to understand what things do and how and why they work. This conversation is purely hypothetical, but it certainly enhances our understanding. Open minds are awesome.
Re: BG100 Lubrication
I have seen a lot of these old circs that have been overoiled.
As Big Ed said too much motor oil will soften the mounting rings and the motor sags.
When that happens the coupling gets too much flex action and breaks quicker.
The school I attended in the 60's had the boys (over) oil the pumps every week.
I service that system today and had the motors cleaned at a motor shop and the leads replaced.
Both 1961 motors are still in service as of today. A real credit to B&G motors.
Re: Difficulty in Properly Sizing Equipment - 2140 Sq Ft New Construction Spray Foam House
There is a real joy to a combustion-free house. You can just build tighter. It's quieter, cleaner, more comfortable.
Re: Difficulty in Properly Sizing Equipment - 2140 Sq Ft New Construction Spray Foam House
@Hot_water_fan "For a house with only a ~10kw heat loss, installing electric baseboard + infloor heating could work out to be substantially cheaper with the same comfort. Plus less to break and less space required. Simplicity, all else equal, seems better."
I plugged into my spreadsheet the following scenario: what if you had electric resistance heat under 100 square feet of the house, set to run whenever the heat was on, with a surface temperature of 80F? That gives 20 BTU/hr/sf, or 2000 BTU/hr, and would consume 586 watts.
It would run about 5700 hours a year and consume about 3,000 kWh per year. The total electricity consumption would go from 7,962 kWh per year to 10,010 — the heat pump would run somewhat less, saving about 950 kWh per year, so the net change is about 2050 kWh. At 20c/kWh that's about $400 per year in additional electricity.
If you account for all costs that's probably the cheapest way to deliver that level of comfort.
Re: Removal of convector radiator cover
HEAT. acetylene torch… but be careful, have a fire extinguisher at your side and some wet towels to cool it down after you get it cherry red. The thermal shock will often help. Use a small tip on the torch (not too small). Just enough to cover the bushing with flame.
Re: Equalizer Return
I'm still staying with it's a drain for the header and a vent for the loop to keep it from siphoning out of the boiler. Without the vent the loop wouldn't matter it would just siphon over the hump.
Not understanding the applying pressure thing. You can't push down into a tee or wye without pushing in both directions. It's gonna push equally outward from the boiler as it is into it.
Re: Equalizer Return
Just my opinion.
When the boiler is not firing there will be more pressure at the bottom of the boiler than above the water line. Atmospheric pressure will be pushing down on the water and the top of the boiler is vented to the atmosphere.
As the boiler builds pressure the pressure on the water at the water level pushes down on the water which will tend to force water out the return. Since the same pressure is pushing down on the water from the header through the equalizer the water level is equalized and the water level in the equalizer should roughly match the sight glass. Without the equalizer water could be pushed into the return.
This may change depending on the system. In a one pipe system with the end of the steam main connected to the return the equalizer may not be needed as @ethicalpaul has shown. In a two-pipe system with no pressure in the returns due to steam traps that could be a different issue as could a large one pipe system in an apartment building with 100s of feet of pipe the pressure at the far end of the steam main may not equalize as well as it would at the boiler.
Weather you need an equalizer to drain the header is another issue. Properly piped boilers with low velocity in the boiler risers may not require an equalizer for a header drain.
This site abounds with picture on various posts of boiler with crappy piping that work fine without an equalizer or an improperly piped equalizer.
But if you install a boiler how do you know if it will work or not?
Most would install the equalizer because the MFG recommends it even if it is not "needed". It would cost a lot more to go back and install it if the job does not work than the cost of a few fittings and some pipe and some labor.
Re: Recessed radiator grills
What do you mean by grills? What is wrong with them as is? Is this for child protection?
Re: Correcting my 2 Zone Monoloop System (Need Help)
thank you all again. I'll get some time this week and weekend to mess with it again and report back if I was able to solve my issue. @EdTheHeaterMan , @mattmia2 , @offdutytech