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Re: [urgent] Is there a way to limit maximum firing rate for Lochinvar Knight boiler?
you can in fact change the temperature the boiler run on a DHW call. Factory default is 180, I don’t remember the adjustment range.
If you had an indirect with dual coils, or a high output HeatFlo, you could generate DHW and tun low enough to condense.
Same with adding an external plate HX. With a close approach HX design the B side can get within a few degrees of the SWT.
Generate 120 DHW with 125 supply, for example. A plate HX is a much more efficient way to exchange temperature.
It’s the key to the EK efficiency, the plate HX for DHW.
hot_rod
Re: can the wrong nozzle size cause damper to blow off on oil-fired boiler?
I got this @Jamie Hall
Electrode / ignition adjustment is important on an oil burner.
There are several factors when it comes to proper oil burner adjustment. the first part is to make sure that the electrodes of the ignition system are not too close to the oil spray. This could cause carbon from the oil to form a bridge across the electrodes, leaving no room for a spark. Next you need to be sure that the electrodes are not too far away from the oil spray. That will cause the spark to not reach the oil spray and no ignition or delayed ignition will happen. Delayed ignition means that there is more oil in the combustion chamber by the time the spark reaches the oil spray and causes a larger that normal expansion of the flue gasses to happen. This larger than normal expansion in the chamber can push a large amount of pressure in the vent pipe and cause the barometric draft control to pop out of the opening and end up on the floor.
The next thing is to have the correct air to fuel ratio. If there is too much air, that excess air can blow the flame out while it is trying to ignite. that is anothe reason for delayed ignition. A good oil burner tech can easily make the correct adjustments. A rookie may still need to learn what the wrong adjustments can result in.
Re: can the wrong nozzle size cause damper to blow off on oil-fired boiler?
Riello specs a .65 60°A or .65 60°B at 190 psi for the G115/4. No 80° angle mentioned.
The draft regulator needs to be secured with screws. Even if it's not, it shouldn't blow out. Combustion needs to checked and adjusted with an analyzer, smoke tester, and set draft for -.02 breach with 0 to slightly positive over fire.
HVACNUT
Re: Oversized boiler suggestions
Does anyone thing with most of the air vents choked down because the rooms get too hot will cause the burner to run and constantly cycle on pressure trying to satisfy the thermostat?
Is the thermostat located in the freezer?
So the question is if the rooms overheat why the stat isn't shutting the boiler down?
Seems like you're operating with basically no air vents which as everyone knows will drive up the fuel bill.
You want to run low pressure vent the mains quickly and the rads as quickly as possible while still maintaining some balance of temp between rooms and locate the thermostat where it will satisfy
Re: Longest lasting steam radiator vent
China does not mean poor quality. Just about every smartphone, tablet, and computer is made there, and untold numbers of components for all industries. They make it as good as US companies pay them to make it. And I will not let Harbor Freight get slandered without saying you can a lot of good stuff for very little money there.
Re: Longest lasting steam radiator vent
Quality Control is not what it used to be. But then again, The American Work Ethic has changes from when our grandparents were in charge.
I will stop here before it gets too Political.
I have heard that a Vinegar bath will help
Re: Add air to water heat pump to radiant heating system
If you have a tank with enough connections a 3 pipe buffer gives you a bit more efficiency. We talk about it in this Idronics issue
Consider a plate HX between the HP indoor module and the buffer. So you don't have to glycol the entire system.
Your 2 pipe drawing is correct if you go that route, still consider the HX.
I downloaded the SWEP HX sizer software. Alicia and Nathan at SWEP walked me through a couple sizing examples, on a phone call.
hot_rod
Re: Steam Boiler Water Needs
This is unrelated to your water loss problem, but master thermostats in interior hallways of multi unit buildings are notoriously slow to sense the building's heating load and the response of the heating system, commonly leading to wide temperature swings.
The comment above about venting and balancing is well taken but only part of the answer. There are several other solutions.
Traditionally an outdoor thermostat was used, made by heat timer or Tekmar; these respond well to temperature but not to sun or wind load.
A more modern solution is wifi sensors placed in several apartments and a central thermostat that averages the readings to control the heat.
bburd
Re: Staple-Up PEX in an unconditioned cellar
I was taught to seal the band joist or cap the bay's. Spray foam is best. Staple up a 1/4" bubble wrap 3" below the tubing to create a hot box and then install a fiberglass insulation or spray foam under bubble wrap to fill up the joist cavity. Black Onyx was great in the day you could staple up onto sheet alumium or by itself directly to the sub floor.
Re: Monoflow system does not heat well
Can you measure the temperature difference between supply and return water? That would tell you if there's a flow problem. Since the system is pressurized a high limit of 200° F should be fine.
bburd