Best Of

Heating Help Gear

Giving up all this stuff is painful, but this one really hurts. Thank you so much, Dan

$100 firm plus shipping.
I’m overtired. Better stuff to come tomorrow.
Hoping to wake up to some purchases.
Have a good night.

Steve Minnich

2

Re: Lochinvar Noble new install questions: system supply sensor, circulator pump, and general feedback

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1834611#Comment_1834611

What I said is the couple of extra elbows and length in the OP's PS loop is not an issue. I would not call what he has an install error.

They did a pretty decent job with the DHW pipes in the way.

Kaos

1

Re: Many years of issues with radiant floor heat.

you would need to do a heat load calc to know the exact answer. Are there two tube runs in each bay. Is the problem area over a basement? Bubble foil alone may not be enough insulation.

What temperature is the supply set at? Increasing the supply temperature may be a simple way to increase floor output.

hot_rod

2

Re: treatment chemical for steam boiler

Nice! Some free opinions for you:

Now you can stop regularly draining your boiler. Let it hold its water until like next fall.
Don't let your auto-filler restore your makeup water. You should be doing that manually. If you let your water level get low enough for the LWCO to trigger, that is too low.
- That low water level means that hot combustion gases are in contact with the "dry" parts of your boiler sections, above the (too low) water line. You are missing out on efficiency—those mid parts of the sections should have water against them so that they stay cooler, which will allow more heat transfer between them and the combustion gases.
- In addition to efficiency, I believe it is also better to keep the water level higher so that the sections aren't so hot to reduce section corrosion being accelerated by that high heat.
- By refilling manually you will have a much better knowledge of your water usage and be aware of leaks

ethicalpaul

1

Yes that bracket simply holds the expansion tank in its proper position. For years we installed them upside down (and it works), yet the instructions say it needs to be in the traditional orientation- so be it. (From a practical laymen’s standpoint- the bladder inside the tank—- I fail to see how it matter because “pressure” doesn’t know direction)

That’s a 3 port, so we can pipe the plumbing/water from the ceiling into that “plugged” port. But this was a quick swap: I would have used a 2 port here but I simply have extra 3 ports in my inventory—-I need to use them up. (I used up all my 2 ports a while back)

GW

2

Re: looking for comment

they work great first customer also had a radiator not warming and another leaking, the first company i worked for was my competitor on bid got those fixed (easy just vents) and her system works a+++

second one the counterflow had coin vents on main !?!? i put in real vents and its only 4 convectors like 68 sq ft steam its tiny so it works well kinda never worked before i just out it in 2 weeks ago did ok on cold snap im doing 2nd skim tomorrow and gotta upsize 1 radiator vent speed it up

as to the 45 degree stuff that comes from the guy who taught me was his style and im decent at math and got a power threader now so its kinda a style choice but i can see were it may affect the counterflow, i think in this case because the systems so tiny i get away with it on condensate return

ripipefitter

1

Re: Rattling Taco 221 fix: Replacement from new valve vs. rebuild kit?

I was just writing this as your reply came in…

Oh, the adjustment screw at the top does turn, but doesn't seem to have an appreciable effect on noise. Are these captive screws?

I'm assuming that they can break like anything else and not actually be doing anything but rotate the broken shaft.

I'll go try again to back it all the way out, anti-clockwise as the Germans like to say.