Copper for condensate pipes? Your opinion
I would never recommend or use copper for steam piping but someone asked about using it for the condensate return pipes. I have always recommended using schedule 80 BI pipe for the condensate and this person insists copper is better for the return. Would love your thoughts or experiences. Thanks
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We have used schedule 80 steel on occasion, most often schedule 40 steel, sometimes copper type L or M.
The schedule 80 was used at two schools that suffered from rotted returns on a regular basis. Approximately every five years the four inch welded returns would start to get pitted. After using schedule 40 the first time, we switched to 80. Same results... We decided to modify the piping slightly. The modifications helped, that retutn pipe is fine and now over twenty years old.
Today, we often replace rotted steel returns with copper. To date I cannot recall one failure. However, if it is just a small section of rotted steel pipe we will often use steel again.
If using threaded steel on returns, I definitely prefer cast iron fittings over steel fittings.
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Most recommend not using copper for steam piping due to greater expansion with temperature, as well as difficulty soldering larger piping though some feel brazing may be ok. It tends to want to twist it self apart and crack joints, as well as apply more pressure trying to push the boiler sections apart. I have two straight connections going to radiators that are copper and they haven't bothered anyone for decades, so I leave them alone. There's no twisting etc and they're very short lengths.
What is your reason for never recommending it for condensate? On most if not all home heating systems even PVC would almost work, it's just a little too hot at times for it. Copper is the perfect solution, really.Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Galvanic corrosion could be an issue if the connection to cast iron/steel isn’t buffered by brass/bronze fittings. Providing a swing joint for thermal expansion might be a good idea if the run of copper is long enough.
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Ive used copper with a brass transition. Seems to be a better result.
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Better in what way? ('m not challenging you, I just wondered what negative you saw from going copper to steel. Did you see a galvanic issue, or is it just something you are concerned about?)
I did mine in steel just because it was easy and very short but really they should all be copper. The steel grows those corrosion bulge things which accelerates clogging (but it takes years). I can't even imagine a copper return ever clogging…condensate is far cleaner than people realize.
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Its a hard thing to predict.
Commercial building that use steam in some cases use higher pressures than the typical 2psi they should use. Higher pressure =higher temperatures. In many cases traps are neglected…….the whole system is neglected.
Due to that steel pipe usually stands up to the abuse better. On commercial jobs it was common to spec #80 for condensate piping.
I have seen old jobs with #40 that lasted for years with just normal issues.
I have also seen 15ps steam jobs where the boiler feed pipe between the pump and the boilers were piped with schedule #40 and it rotted out in 2 years and replaced by schedule #80
Copper is fine for residential.
In my experience the largest factor is the make up water. A job that uses a lot of MU water will rot out fast. If the MU water is kept to minimum things are fine. No surprise I guess.
On commercial jobs the boiler feed piping between the condensate or boiler feed tank and the boiler is always the first to go
Not sure what the code is on this. Your not using copper on HP steam condensate that is for sure. That would never pass inspection.
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I thought most high pressure steam systems use welded stainless steel pipe?
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Food processing, but I think power plants are also big on stainless, no?
When I think high pressure steam, I think power generation.
Single pipe 392sqft system with an EG-40 rated for 325sqft and it's silent and balanced at all times.
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Thank you all for your expertise.When I first got into the trade, the journeyman was an old steam guy and had rules, lots of rules. The first was no copper in a steam system anywhere. The second was schedule 80 for the condensate and schedule 40 for the steam. See you can teach an old dog new tricks.
Ray Wohlfarth
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Gordo uses stainless steel now in parts of his Hartford loops and where it interfaces with the boiler, that is good because it's always rotting out there first
NJ Steam Homeowner.
Free NJ and remote steam advice: https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/new-jersey-steam-help/
See my sight glass boiler videos: https://bit.ly/3sZW1el0 -
Over the years, I have had a few issues with what seemed to be an electrolysis reaction. I wasnt sure what the cause of corrosion was for certain, but when I used a brass nipple transitioning to copper, most of the time the issues went away. I decided years ago to make it a habit. I had customers to answer to, not to mention a good reputation to maintain. I would sometimes use a brass coupling or even a stainless steel fitting that might have been left over from another job. It just worked (s), and that's good enough for me.
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I tried the Sch. 80 pipe/fittings. What I discovered was that it took twice as long for the corrosion to return from the Sch.40…go figure.
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ther's high pressure and then there's high pressure.
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Both get the job done. Ph and water quality play a big factor. Open up a wet return after 10 years, steel or copper. Steel will usually have a good plaque build up and Atherosclerosis. If there is any in a copper wet return, it doesn't adhere to the pipe walls and can be flushed clean easily. Not so with black pipe.
As a general rule, copper ONLY below the water line and on wet returns. If I do have to make a repair on a steam supply radiator branch that is already piped in copper and its not practical time or $$$ wise for the client, I'm using 50/50 solder or silverbrazing the joints..."softer" and greater flexibility. I've seen joints in buildings I did over 35 years ago....No cracks of the solder joint...95/5 joints are more prone to crack as it is a "harder" joint. Mad Dog
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@Mad Dog_2 I like the reminder of the 95/5 to 50/50 scenario. I haven't carried 50/50 around for years. I'll have to keep that excellent point in mind for next time.
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