Best Of
Re: Adding main vents to a "two pipe" air vent system.
Is that really a true recommendation? Or is that something the Dead Men did back in the day? I believe that Dan mentions in a seminar that the Dakota in NYC was actually converted from a Paul system to a two pipe with radiator vent system so get it to operate today. (not the other way around)
Re: Boiler system help! Cannot get heat to all registers...
OK now that you have all three valves located I will go from your basement diagram
To a diagram that shows your system in a little easier to follow diagram that I used to teach a seminar about this. the parts are not in the same order so I will need to adjust then a little.
- So connect the water heater drain to the boiler drain with a double female end hose or a washing machine hose as indicated in the top photo/illustration.
- Open the water heater drain and be sure that you get good flow before you connect to the boiler drain. (and you water heater needs to be flushed anyway)
- With the air purged from that hose connect to the boiler
- Open the water heater drain valve to add pressure to the hose
- Close all three of the (B) valves on your system
- Close the yellow handle valve on your system
- Connect a garden hose to the purge tap just above Yellow valve
- Now open the boiler drain valve to let pressure in the boiler. Watch the gauge and be ready to shut off if the pressure goes over 25 PSI
- Open one of the three (B) valves in you system and open the purge valve to let the water and the air out.
- After a few minutes you will notice that no more air is coming out
- Then close the open (B) valve and open another (B) valve and wait for that to purge all the air.
- Repeat with the third (B) valve with the other two (B) valves closed.
- when all the air is out close the boiler drain and the purge tap.
That should. get all the air out. Now you need to get everything back to normal.
- Close the boiler drain at the bottom.
- Close the water heater drain
- Disconnect that hose.
- Open all the (B) valves
- Open the Yellow valve
- Look at the boiler pressure and let water out of the purge valve until you get to 12 PSI
- once that is done, you can close the purge valve and disconnect that hose.
- Operate the boiler and see how it heats the home.
Re: Boiler pipe insulation questions
Ok great, thanks. Hopefully the energy assessment people will help me strike the right balance of getting air to the boiler but not letting too much heat escape. House is in Westchester County, NY
SpencerB
Re: treatment chemical for steam boiler
I added a quart of it after flushing the boiler out and before refilling it last spring.
I will soon flush it out again before starting it up for the cold weather and add a fresh quart of 8-way.
Is that the way to use it? Add a quart every time the system is flushed?
My usual source was Amazon, but for whatever reason they don't carry it anymore. Ordered it from supplyhouse.com instead (thanks @delcrossv).
Re: Vent Pipe For Boiler: How Far Into Masonry Chimney?
@EdTheHeaterMan , who is a much better tradesman than I ever was or will be, is right. Sort of. I know something about chimneys and venting, but don't have his level of experience or knowledge! Go with what he says.
Re: Name this fitting
Yes, that's exactly right. It's a fiber washer. I added a pic in my post of it.
Re: Circa 1920 levered manual steam valve
If they're leaking past the stem, you can repack them.
Its MOUAT.
See:
2 pipe system? Looks like a regulating valve.
Mepco still makes those, be prepared for sticker shock.
You can't just swap them for a regular valve without additional work.
Re: Where to put the pump
Flow switch, @GroundUp . Pump in the house, flow switch near the boiler.
Re: Where to put the pump
I take it there is a feed line and a return line from the manifold in the house to the carriage house? Yes? Then there is no good reason why the pump controlling the circulation in the carriage house can't be in the carriage house. The only thing you would have to watch out for is the pressure drop in the feed line from the house to the carriage house, and thus the inlet to that pump — most pumps should have at least 5 to 10 psig at the inlet when they are running.
All your control wiring for the thermostat and the pump would be in the carriage house. How the boiler would be controlled is another matter — and that depends on what controls the boiler now. It could be a flow switch on the feed or return, for instance, right at the existing house connection.
Re: Help me swap my Gorton #1 main vent (with free used Hoffman 75) ?
A couple elbows and nipples will fix that.
