Best Of
Re: The Battle Inside Your Boiler: Air vs Steam
@PatB there should be a vent on the one pipe rad and a main air vent on the pipe below in the basement
Re: Outdoor reset
Some industries did, maybe still do, have paid tech support. Early in the call they get you CC number. In general dealing with the general public can be very time consuming.
Your situation is a bit different, you seem to know exactly what you want, you just can't find it.
For the money I would try @EdTheHeaterMan's supplyhouse.com solution posted above.
Pictures like this give me the feeling they are the same part.
109A_5
Re: Neg subcooling
Okay update. hooked up my old s-man 380s got normal subcooling 9. Which told me my new 482s had a problem. So so I did a factory reset on my new gauges and got correct readings.
I would not haveI would not have guessed that a brand new set of gauges would be doing that. That explains why I never seen settings like that before.
My thanks to everyone that contributed.
5earlys
Re: DIY boiler supply leak woes
this valve can be rebuilt by replacing the snap on motor, replace the flapper and stem, or swap the entire valve via the union connections
hot_rod
Re: DIY boiler supply leak woes
If it's not broke …don't fix it!
Sometimes when you have the older version, The quality and workmanship of the old part is superior to the new model, having less expensive plastic parts replacing older metal gears and stuff. Same part number, different quality.
I think Inspector 12 retired 35 years ago and the stuff ain't been the same since!
Who remembers Inspector 12?
Re: DIY boiler supply leak woes
Here’s a general question for you guys. The plumber suggested replacing all five Honeywell zone valves with identical new ones (and he’s not the first free-associating visiting plumber to suggest this). Does it ever make sense to replace a functioning zone valve with a newer cousin, just because it’s old (like we replace old cars)? Or do they fall under the category of if it’s not broke don’t fix it?
Also, if you replace a zone valve that no longer works, is the common thing to just swap out the motor and gear and stuff, the whole silver box, leaving the old brass part that has the actual valve mechanism (thus not having to do any soldering and unsoldering?) Do those brass valve parts actually attached to the zone risers commonly fail over time? In other words, when they say “replace the zone valves” can I assume it means just the box and mechanisms inside, not the whole valve/motor assembly?
Re: DIY boiler supply leak woes
Not proud of it but it has held for over a decade. JB weld putty over leaky joint.
Make sure to release the pressure from the system so the joint is not leaking while the putty dries.
Kaos
Re: DIY boiler supply leak woes
Yup, I’m not sure but I think the circulator came with the boiler and it might even have been mounted there.
I might try the first way as soon as I can get some 50/50, but if it doesn’t work (hopefully it won’t make matters worse) I’ll go to the tee like you say, though I’d like to do that in the spring, living with the leak over the winter. Warm weather would give me more time and leeway.