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Re: Minnesota Right to Repair Law
Agriculture has definitely been a driving force behind this. Deere actually signed a Memorandum of Understanding with the American Farm Bureau Federation agreeing to open up their systems and make software available to 3rd party repair shops and vendors. We'll see if it happens, but there's probably a lot more at play here than meets the eye.
For the last 10 or 15 years, pretty much every piece of farm level equipment that Deere has sold has been equipped with an Agriculture Management System (AMS). More recently, the AMS systems have grown beyond simply keeping our GPS headings, planted varieties, yield etc. - and now manage and control every function of the machine. Every machine is also equipped with a modem that uploads all machine data to Deere. It's awesome in some ways. I can watch everything I own on Deere's Operations Center App. I can share my GPS Headings, machine locations - almost anything with other farmers. Tech support (from Deere) can watch my in cab display remotely and diagnose problems. Like I said, it's awesome in some ways.
Deere equipment that was stolen by the Russians during the Ukraine invasion was remotely shut down by Deere. They claimed they'd never used that function before, but it obviously exists. There's no way to shut the AMS system down or operate the machine without it in newer equipment. And everything - every function, every operator interaction, every piece of information - is uploaded. The data about every farming operation that uses the equipment is on Deere's servers. I'm not that bothered by the whole thing, however, during farmer conversations (usually a few beers in), it's been brought up that it seems very likely that during harvest, someone could aggregate all of our yield data fairly easily. I'd assume that information might be quite valuable to commodities traders, the government, etc.
I'm generally pretty conservative about what information is out there about me and my farm, but I'm not that worked up about all this. I've never thought Deere has abused the information that they gather from my equipment. At this point, no one, other than a Deere Dealer Tech can connect to the bus on my tractors, combine, planter etc. to make an adjustment or change. No one else has access to the software or hardware necessary.
If Deere is forced to open the system to 3rd parties, I guess it will probably be a good thing. I have no idea what changes that might bring. I know there are those that are really intense about wanting this change, I'm just not sure it matters that much to me!
For the last 10 or 15 years, pretty much every piece of farm level equipment that Deere has sold has been equipped with an Agriculture Management System (AMS). More recently, the AMS systems have grown beyond simply keeping our GPS headings, planted varieties, yield etc. - and now manage and control every function of the machine. Every machine is also equipped with a modem that uploads all machine data to Deere. It's awesome in some ways. I can watch everything I own on Deere's Operations Center App. I can share my GPS Headings, machine locations - almost anything with other farmers. Tech support (from Deere) can watch my in cab display remotely and diagnose problems. Like I said, it's awesome in some ways.
Deere equipment that was stolen by the Russians during the Ukraine invasion was remotely shut down by Deere. They claimed they'd never used that function before, but it obviously exists. There's no way to shut the AMS system down or operate the machine without it in newer equipment. And everything - every function, every operator interaction, every piece of information - is uploaded. The data about every farming operation that uses the equipment is on Deere's servers. I'm not that bothered by the whole thing, however, during farmer conversations (usually a few beers in), it's been brought up that it seems very likely that during harvest, someone could aggregate all of our yield data fairly easily. I'd assume that information might be quite valuable to commodities traders, the government, etc.
I'm generally pretty conservative about what information is out there about me and my farm, but I'm not that worked up about all this. I've never thought Deere has abused the information that they gather from my equipment. At this point, no one, other than a Deere Dealer Tech can connect to the bus on my tractors, combine, planter etc. to make an adjustment or change. No one else has access to the software or hardware necessary.
If Deere is forced to open the system to 3rd parties, I guess it will probably be a good thing. I have no idea what changes that might bring. I know there are those that are really intense about wanting this change, I'm just not sure it matters that much to me!
Re: Minnesota Right to Repair Law
General Electric did that in the 1940's and 1950's with the Down-fire boiler they sold. No one was allowed to work on them except for a GE authorized service provider. That was their downfall because there were no oil heat repair man that worked for the fuel dealers that could get the parts and knew how they worked. Eventually those old GE boilers and furnaces got. to be 20 years old and GE didn't want to work on them any more.
If GE let the oil dealers in on their secret recipe , they could have sold many more boilers because oil dealers would be installing the more efficient clean burning system, to combat the Gas Company who was stealing their oil customers.
PS. @STEVEusaPA, that was an attempt at humor. Sometimes you hit the mark, Sometimes you bomb
If GE let the oil dealers in on their secret recipe , they could have sold many more boilers because oil dealers would be installing the more efficient clean burning system, to combat the Gas Company who was stealing their oil customers.
PS. @STEVEusaPA, that was an attempt at humor. Sometimes you hit the mark, Sometimes you bomb
Re: Minnesota Right to Repair Law
As I understand it, OEMs have been denying consumers and end users the "right to repair" their own stuff by refusing to sell and provide the tech support and needed parts.
RIGHT TO REPAIR laws make this practice illegal. I have had personal experience in this area with motorcycles and vacuum pumps.
RIGHT TO REPAIR laws make this practice illegal. I have had personal experience in this area with motorcycles and vacuum pumps.
Pumpguy
6
Re: Added Vents, Lost Heat?
"and I heard gurgling,"
You have a pitch or sag issue somewhere. You shouldn't hear anything except the sounds of air movement, and with an open pipe, maybe not even that. If there is enough water in the main to cause gurgling, it will effectively function like a close pipe, so no steam will flow.
To be clear about the other floors. Are you saying the radiators on the second and third floor, connected to the front main are getting hot, but on the same main, first floor they are not? Just want to clarify, it's not just which floor they are on, it's also which main they are connected to.
To add to that, if they are on the same main, do the second and third floor come off the main prior to the problem radiators on the first floor?
You have a pitch or sag issue somewhere. You shouldn't hear anything except the sounds of air movement, and with an open pipe, maybe not even that. If there is enough water in the main to cause gurgling, it will effectively function like a close pipe, so no steam will flow.
To be clear about the other floors. Are you saying the radiators on the second and third floor, connected to the front main are getting hot, but on the same main, first floor they are not? Just want to clarify, it's not just which floor they are on, it's also which main they are connected to.
To add to that, if they are on the same main, do the second and third floor come off the main prior to the problem radiators on the first floor?
KC_Jones
2
Re: My pressure tank to the well is filling very slowly
A side note, that small expansion tank, I would try to refill it with a tire pump or compressor and see if it holds air before condemning it. It isn't unusual for the schrader that fills it to leak a little so if it isn't checked and topped off once or twice a year it may lose its charge. There needs to be no pressure on the water side when the pressure is set in both tanks.
mattmia2
1
Re: My pressure tank to the well is filling very slowly
My guess would be the expansion tank is defective especially if it is waterlogged. If you change it be VERY cautious it will be very heavy when full of water. Best bet is to drill a small hole in the old tank and let the water out with the tank isolated of course.
Other issue is your water filter could be plugged as could the pressure switch connection.
# 1 check water filter
#2chech expansion tank with pump off and well tank drained check air pressure in expansion tank. Should be about 38 psi on the air side. Remove plastic cap on the bottom and use a tire pressure gauge. If you get any water out of that connection the expansion tank connection is bad.
#3 remove and check/clean pressure switch connection
Other issue is your water filter could be plugged as could the pressure switch connection.
# 1 check water filter
#2chech expansion tank with pump off and well tank drained check air pressure in expansion tank. Should be about 38 psi on the air side. Remove plastic cap on the bottom and use a tire pressure gauge. If you get any water out of that connection the expansion tank connection is bad.
#3 remove and check/clean pressure switch connection
Re: My pressure tank to the well is filling very slowly
I agree on the second tank. It may also have been used for water hammer, or for hot water expansion.
On the well, though... not so sure. What I read is that eventually the well pump can boost the pressure to your set 50 psi, but it does it very slowly. Further, that when it does finally get there the pressure switch opens as it is supposed to.
This tells me that your surmise is quite correct: there is something going on which keeps your well and pump from keeping up, or even being close to keeping up.
So... what kind of pump are we dealing with here, since the possible problems are different for different arrangements. Is this a shallow well jet pump (the pump is in your basement, most likely, and there is a single suction pipe from the pump going down the well with a foot valve)? Is it a deep well jet pump (the pump is, again, in your basement, but there are two pipes down the well, and the jet itself is at the bottom or near the bottom of the well)? Or is it a submersible pump (the pump itself is down in the well somewhere)?
There are two problems which are more or less independent of the type of pump: first, the pump motor may be failing. This is rare, but does happen (a good submersible, for instance, has an expected life of more than 50 years). Related, the pump impellor or impellors may be damaged, usually from sand or silt in the well water. The second is far more serious: something may have changed in the well itself, or in the vicinity of the well, so that either standing water (when the pump is off) or the rate at which water can reenter the well (called recharge) has dropped. Either one will mean that your pump has to lift the water from a greater depth than previously, and will result in reduced flow (in the extreme, of course, the water level will drop to the pump intake or the pump itself, for a submersible, and result in no flow at all to speak of)(if a submersible is run dry, it will fail very quickly, by the way, so you don't want to do that).
With jet pumps -- either deep well or shallow well -- there is a strainer at the bottom of the pipe in the well. This should never get clogged, but there is a chance it might if, somehow, something might have gotten dropped into the well. There is also a foot valve down there which could get clogged or hang up partly closed, though again that is rare. Either could be checked, however, by pulling the drop pipe(s) and just taking a look.
In a deep well jet pump, it is possible that there is a leak in the motive pipe which takes water from the pump and runs it back down the well to the jet. That will reduce pumping efficiency a lot, but shouldn't lead to overheating of the pump motor itself (which you mentioned was a problem).
Submersible pumps have -- or should have -- a check valve at the pump. It is almost beyond rare for that to fail partly closed (although it isn't all that uncommon for it to fail open). Checking it, however, is not for the faint of heart, as it means pulling the entire drop pipe string and the pump.
If there is a problem with the well itself... has anything local happened which might have affected the groundwater? Construction in the vicinity? New foundation drains near the well? Yard drains? In any event, a competent well driller should be able to determine the static and operating water levels over time in the well, along with yield. That investigation should, however, not be undertaken until possible problems with the pump have been investigated.
On the well, though... not so sure. What I read is that eventually the well pump can boost the pressure to your set 50 psi, but it does it very slowly. Further, that when it does finally get there the pressure switch opens as it is supposed to.
This tells me that your surmise is quite correct: there is something going on which keeps your well and pump from keeping up, or even being close to keeping up.
So... what kind of pump are we dealing with here, since the possible problems are different for different arrangements. Is this a shallow well jet pump (the pump is in your basement, most likely, and there is a single suction pipe from the pump going down the well with a foot valve)? Is it a deep well jet pump (the pump is, again, in your basement, but there are two pipes down the well, and the jet itself is at the bottom or near the bottom of the well)? Or is it a submersible pump (the pump itself is down in the well somewhere)?
There are two problems which are more or less independent of the type of pump: first, the pump motor may be failing. This is rare, but does happen (a good submersible, for instance, has an expected life of more than 50 years). Related, the pump impellor or impellors may be damaged, usually from sand or silt in the well water. The second is far more serious: something may have changed in the well itself, or in the vicinity of the well, so that either standing water (when the pump is off) or the rate at which water can reenter the well (called recharge) has dropped. Either one will mean that your pump has to lift the water from a greater depth than previously, and will result in reduced flow (in the extreme, of course, the water level will drop to the pump intake or the pump itself, for a submersible, and result in no flow at all to speak of)(if a submersible is run dry, it will fail very quickly, by the way, so you don't want to do that).
With jet pumps -- either deep well or shallow well -- there is a strainer at the bottom of the pipe in the well. This should never get clogged, but there is a chance it might if, somehow, something might have gotten dropped into the well. There is also a foot valve down there which could get clogged or hang up partly closed, though again that is rare. Either could be checked, however, by pulling the drop pipe(s) and just taking a look.
In a deep well jet pump, it is possible that there is a leak in the motive pipe which takes water from the pump and runs it back down the well to the jet. That will reduce pumping efficiency a lot, but shouldn't lead to overheating of the pump motor itself (which you mentioned was a problem).
Submersible pumps have -- or should have -- a check valve at the pump. It is almost beyond rare for that to fail partly closed (although it isn't all that uncommon for it to fail open). Checking it, however, is not for the faint of heart, as it means pulling the entire drop pipe string and the pump.
If there is a problem with the well itself... has anything local happened which might have affected the groundwater? Construction in the vicinity? New foundation drains near the well? Yard drains? In any event, a competent well driller should be able to determine the static and operating water levels over time in the well, along with yield. That investigation should, however, not be undertaken until possible problems with the pump have been investigated.
Re: My pressure tank to the well is filling very slowly
You are on the right track.
The nipple connecting the pressure switch to the tank cross is probably plugged.
If you decide to go to the trouble of repairing it yourself, I would change the nipple and the pressure switch.
Be sure to have the pressure switch set at the pressure of your tank on the floor.
As to the tank above.
Your description tells me that this tank is water-logged and should also be replaced.
I'm guessing that tank is installed because you have or have had a closed domestic water system that had or has a backflow preventer or check valve installed somewhere. I cant be sure due to the angle of the picture.
That tank will need to be replaced too.
The nipple connecting the pressure switch to the tank cross is probably plugged.
If you decide to go to the trouble of repairing it yourself, I would change the nipple and the pressure switch.
Be sure to have the pressure switch set at the pressure of your tank on the floor.
As to the tank above.
Your description tells me that this tank is water-logged and should also be replaced.
I'm guessing that tank is installed because you have or have had a closed domestic water system that had or has a backflow preventer or check valve installed somewhere. I cant be sure due to the angle of the picture.
That tank will need to be replaced too.
Intplm.
1
Re: Dole Radiator Bleeder Valve?
My house (1956) also has these. They are not "automatic bleeder valves." They are simple, plain old manual bleeder valves, counterclockwise to vent, clockwise to tighten (as indicated by your second shot). In my house some took a little force with a wrench to loosen, I don't think they'd been touched for a long time, but once they unfroze, mine worked fine for me; the two baseboards which were not warming as much on my top floor hissed air for a few seconds, then water came out.
I hope you resolved your issue, but I just wanted to answer the Q for anyone else who might stumble on this in the future (this was the only reference I could find to these anywhere).
I hope you resolved your issue, but I just wanted to answer the Q for anyone else who might stumble on this in the future (this was the only reference I could find to these anywhere).
MaMa
1