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Re: Another Solar Myth Bites the Dust
Excellent article Larry.
Thank you for your research and ongoing promotion of THE most efficient system in the World, that being solar thermal.
As you know, I've been involved in solar thermal since before it was even on the DOE's radar. I have a 2 panels system on my mountain home that heats the home when we aren't there, and preheats the DHW when we are there. I keep the house at 40 degrees F when we are away, so all the radiant (walls, floors ceiling) surfaces are at at around 40 degrees F when the system fires, keeping the fluids below 70 degrees F, thereby maintaining solar efficiencies that are WAY high.
I wanted to pop in here, and (once again) talk about the potential that most hydronic snow/ice melt (SIM) contractors are overlooking that is staring them right in the face. That being the possibility of turning their SIM system into a large surface area high and ultra high efficiency solar collector.
During non SIM operations, there is a LOT of free energy falling onto this surface that could be put to use, either as a simple DHW preheat, heating pools/spas, and even space heating.
My concept is one of a two stage design. 1st stage would be a semi direct exchange that transfers the solar heated glycol into a storage tank with a heat exchanger for DHW preheat. When the delta T drops to the conventional "off' point, the 2nd stage kicks in.
2nd stage slows the circulation on the source (SIM) side, and directs this low grade heat into a water to water heat pump. These heat pumps would be running at around 200 to 300% efficient (COP of 2 or 3, depending). During the warmer summer months, the system would actually harvest what I refer to as "Ambient Energy", that being sensible energy that is not directly related to the solar gain. Remember, thermal energy flows from hot to cold. These systems make a lot of sense wherever there is a constant (annual) demand for DHW, which includes residential, commercial etc.
In commercial applications, like restaurants, laundries and other high hot water demand situations, I strongly believe that we could collect more energy for water heating, than they system would use in its SIM role. I've monitored some SIM systems during the summer months, and have seen slab temperatures approaching 140 degrees F. Granted, this is a stagnated condition, but the physics for extraction are there. Typical SIM systems have 5/8" PEX installed at 9" O.C., thereby making it very conducive to extracting all this free energy. When I was the Director of the RPA, I was at a code hearing conference, sitting next to a young lady. I asked her what her interest were in code development. She told me she worked for The Sierra Club, and that she was there to recommend that all SIM systems be outlawed due to the egregious waste of a precious natural resource. I told her of my reverse solar concept, and she said that she didn't realize that it was even a potential, got up and left the meeting without making her pitch. I guess what I am trying to say here, is that the environmental lobby has SIM in their gun sights, and that we as hydronic contractors had better be proactive in our applications, and start thinking outside the box, or the government and the enviro lobby will take that box (SIM) away.
These same slabs can also work as a very efficient heat rejection system due to night sky re-radiation. I've seen my solar thermal panels sub cool below ambient as much as 20 degrees under clear night sky conditions. I could use that in my mountain home for cooling from the radiant ceilings, if needed, without even firing a compressor.
Again, thank you for your continuing efforts to promote what the good Lord gives us for free, that we need to utilize to a greater degree, that being solar thermal. Stay well my friend.
ME
Thank you for your research and ongoing promotion of THE most efficient system in the World, that being solar thermal.
As you know, I've been involved in solar thermal since before it was even on the DOE's radar. I have a 2 panels system on my mountain home that heats the home when we aren't there, and preheats the DHW when we are there. I keep the house at 40 degrees F when we are away, so all the radiant (walls, floors ceiling) surfaces are at at around 40 degrees F when the system fires, keeping the fluids below 70 degrees F, thereby maintaining solar efficiencies that are WAY high.
I wanted to pop in here, and (once again) talk about the potential that most hydronic snow/ice melt (SIM) contractors are overlooking that is staring them right in the face. That being the possibility of turning their SIM system into a large surface area high and ultra high efficiency solar collector.
During non SIM operations, there is a LOT of free energy falling onto this surface that could be put to use, either as a simple DHW preheat, heating pools/spas, and even space heating.
My concept is one of a two stage design. 1st stage would be a semi direct exchange that transfers the solar heated glycol into a storage tank with a heat exchanger for DHW preheat. When the delta T drops to the conventional "off' point, the 2nd stage kicks in.
2nd stage slows the circulation on the source (SIM) side, and directs this low grade heat into a water to water heat pump. These heat pumps would be running at around 200 to 300% efficient (COP of 2 or 3, depending). During the warmer summer months, the system would actually harvest what I refer to as "Ambient Energy", that being sensible energy that is not directly related to the solar gain. Remember, thermal energy flows from hot to cold. These systems make a lot of sense wherever there is a constant (annual) demand for DHW, which includes residential, commercial etc.
In commercial applications, like restaurants, laundries and other high hot water demand situations, I strongly believe that we could collect more energy for water heating, than they system would use in its SIM role. I've monitored some SIM systems during the summer months, and have seen slab temperatures approaching 140 degrees F. Granted, this is a stagnated condition, but the physics for extraction are there. Typical SIM systems have 5/8" PEX installed at 9" O.C., thereby making it very conducive to extracting all this free energy. When I was the Director of the RPA, I was at a code hearing conference, sitting next to a young lady. I asked her what her interest were in code development. She told me she worked for The Sierra Club, and that she was there to recommend that all SIM systems be outlawed due to the egregious waste of a precious natural resource. I told her of my reverse solar concept, and she said that she didn't realize that it was even a potential, got up and left the meeting without making her pitch. I guess what I am trying to say here, is that the environmental lobby has SIM in their gun sights, and that we as hydronic contractors had better be proactive in our applications, and start thinking outside the box, or the government and the enviro lobby will take that box (SIM) away.
These same slabs can also work as a very efficient heat rejection system due to night sky re-radiation. I've seen my solar thermal panels sub cool below ambient as much as 20 degrees under clear night sky conditions. I could use that in my mountain home for cooling from the radiant ceilings, if needed, without even firing a compressor.
Again, thank you for your continuing efforts to promote what the good Lord gives us for free, that we need to utilize to a greater degree, that being solar thermal. Stay well my friend.
ME
Re: Boiler LWC activates quickly
The boiler is not surging
how do you know? It looks like it's surging to me, if you see the waterline drop quickly during a call for heat. There's nowhere else the water could be going.
I am not sure what the “water good” means, but the water is clean as I did drain the boiler twice.
It could still have oils floating on it. Skimming is how you would remove those and be sure it's clean.
Re: Beckett AFG Efficiency Testing + Boiler sooting issue
Short answer - no.
I suppose a more general question is whether, given the numbers I've seen to date, I can make adjustments to the airboot, use a combination of smoke test+stack temp, and be reasonably confident that the changes I'm making to increase combustion air aren't having a significant impact in other areas? Probably a pipe dream but figured I'd ask.
Long answer is that if you can identify the shutter setting that will provide a 1 indication and a 0 indication on your Bacharach smoke tester, you can set your shutter to produce between 0 and 1 smoke and be reasonably close to good combustion. Remove the baffle and check your smoke, if you're at a trace (1ish), you might be where the tech left it.
What you don't want is to soot it up with too high a number (2 or over) or run it too lean by going past (below) where the zero smoke is.
I don't know this, but it's possible the baffle may not change the combustion numbers significantly or at all.
MaxMercy
1
Re: Help with GPM, maybe? (newbie/ DIY)
Why do you want it to heat up faster? A slab is a huge thermal mass- you should be setting it at a given temp and leaving it alone for the most part. If you want to change temp regularly, a different heating method is a much better option than trying to fluctuate the whole slab. 105-65= 40 degree delta with a 1.7 GPM flow rate so you're getting approximately 34,000 BTU/hr into the space as-is, which should be more than enough to keep it heated on a design day (approximately 30 BTU/sq ft). You could get more BTU in by raising the average water temp, which can often be achieved by raising the flow rate as you've stated. The question of "why?" remains though.
1
Re: Multiple Issues
Copper near boiler piping may be the incorrect size. You will need to remove the insulation on the copper pipes only, and take more pictures. The original installer was not a Steam Boiler Installer, otherwise that copper pipe would actually be Steel pipe with iron fittings.
The fact that you mentioned overfilling leads to another problem
The fact that you mentioned overfilling leads to another problem
Re: Beckett AFG Efficiency Testing + Boiler sooting issue
If you look at the Beckett AFG specs you posted above, the spec'd 0.50 nozzle is supposed to be run at 150 psi, which presumably results in the actual 0.60 gph input rate.
Regarding the nozzle, the unit shipped with a 0.50x45W, and it is also indicated in the manual (picture a few posts back), despite it being rated at .60-GPH in both the literature and by the sticker. I have no idea why this is...
Remember that the nominal nozzle gph is based on 100 psi.
2
Re: How Do I Connect This Wire?
Weil McLain Steam boiler with NEST, No Relay needed
FROM:https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/188201/adding-c-wire-to-weil-mclain-steam-boiler
Here is the updated wiring diagram if you feel competent to rewire the low voltage exactly in order to keep the limit and safety controls operational in accordance with industry standards.


The easier way might be to use a separate transformer to power the thermostat and an isolation relay to perform the thermostat function in the existing wiring location.
Re: New Gorton Stuck Vent, Investigative Surgery
Quite possible that the company changed the flux that was used to assemble the vents, and mistakenly bought flux that was not non corrosive. Young kid just out of college thought he was going to save the company millions. Of course that is just speculation.
SgtMaj
1
Low propane and high efficiency Polaris
I have a 1000 lb propane tank that went below the recommended 200lbs minimum during below freezing temperatures a couple months ago. They delivered Some propane to bring it up to 300lbs. During very erratic temperatures of back and forth below freezing to 50+ degrees, my Polaris direct vent high efficiency water tank would stop heating, showing 3 flashes. (Igniter). I would unplug, wait, plug in, and it would go again. I had to do this twice within a month. When the propane went down to 200 lbs they came and filled to 400lbs. Temperatures have been more steady lately and above freezing but I have had to do the unplug and back on trick several times with the Polaris since this last propane addition. Now my trick won’t work and the water isn’t heating. I don’t think it’s the ignition as that and fan was replaced new year before. I’m wondering if it’s possible I’ve lost pressure from the propane tank when it dropped below 200lbs.? I am rural and a house call is over $500 before looking to service. I am seeking opinions in hopes of avoiding a costly service call and thank you in advance.
1
Re: Banging -New Boiler
Did whoever installed ti skim it to get rid of the oil from the new boiler and piping? It would need to be skimmed when it was first installed and another time to couple of times a week or so after it is installed.
You can see the oil floating on the water in the sight glass.
You can see the oil floating on the water in the sight glass.
2


