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Re: It's Been a long time.
Neato...Nice clean, sqaured away like a Good Navy man would do! I have found we do mostly rehabs/repipes on Screwed up boilers. We don't do the boiler a day pace we did for years. There are two reasons:
1) We don't get the initial install because "You're much higher than so and so...and no one else is telling me I need to do all this!...but they've been in business since WW I...what could you possibly know? " So, they pay us later...its a vicious, unnecessary cycle...The real sharp guys like us who really care and know what they are doing are the ODD MAN OUT! The Outlier, not in with the typical Wolf pack.
2) Because we have decades of experience and knowledge, we became specialists, Surgeons if you will. Less brute force day after day... up and down stairs with 400lb sections. We make better $$ as Surgeons & Save further wear & tear on the body.
Medieval?? Absolutely 💯..... I comment all the time as we're moving these old and new huge slabs of Cast Iron all around up & down, muscling them in to place: "Boys...isn't it amazing after over 150 years, of tough men installing heat, our methods and materials haven't really changed much ( with the exception of Mod Cons on HW systems)...When you are in Steam land, the old sections are superheavy & filthy to get out and the new steamers are clean but just as heavy...Sometimes we use an electric hand-truck, but We still old school, Neanderthal it. No lost fingers, toes, digits...There's an Art & finesse - even doing this. Mad Dog 🐕
1) We don't get the initial install because "You're much higher than so and so...and no one else is telling me I need to do all this!...but they've been in business since WW I...what could you possibly know? " So, they pay us later...its a vicious, unnecessary cycle...The real sharp guys like us who really care and know what they are doing are the ODD MAN OUT! The Outlier, not in with the typical Wolf pack.
2) Because we have decades of experience and knowledge, we became specialists, Surgeons if you will. Less brute force day after day... up and down stairs with 400lb sections. We make better $$ as Surgeons & Save further wear & tear on the body.
Medieval?? Absolutely 💯..... I comment all the time as we're moving these old and new huge slabs of Cast Iron all around up & down, muscling them in to place: "Boys...isn't it amazing after over 150 years, of tough men installing heat, our methods and materials haven't really changed much ( with the exception of Mod Cons on HW systems)...When you are in Steam land, the old sections are superheavy & filthy to get out and the new steamers are clean but just as heavy...Sometimes we use an electric hand-truck, but We still old school, Neanderthal it. No lost fingers, toes, digits...There's an Art & finesse - even doing this. Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Triple aluminum plates between joists - bad idea?
There is one thing you need to observe, Make sure you do not put the tube too close to the toilet drain pipe regardless of the number of tubes in the joist. if the water in the tube gets too hot from a malfunction some day, the wax ring will melt and then you will have some nifty odors and you will not know where they are coming from.
Now as far as adding tubing to a floor, If you could stack 28 rows of 1/2 OD tubing in a 14 ft joist space you will not get any more heat from that floor suurface. Think of the floor as EDR, one square foot of floor at any given temperature is still only one square foot of floor. if 2 tubes or 6 tubes get the floor to the designed temperature of say 90°, then that 90° surface will give you the exact same amount of heat to the room. Think about radiant wall heat on one of the outside walls, or a towel warmer at a higher temperature. Make your job easier and do the math before, you do the muscle.
Now as far as adding tubing to a floor, If you could stack 28 rows of 1/2 OD tubing in a 14 ft joist space you will not get any more heat from that floor suurface. Think of the floor as EDR, one square foot of floor at any given temperature is still only one square foot of floor. if 2 tubes or 6 tubes get the floor to the designed temperature of say 90°, then that 90° surface will give you the exact same amount of heat to the room. Think about radiant wall heat on one of the outside walls, or a towel warmer at a higher temperature. Make your job easier and do the math before, you do the muscle.
Master plumbing drawing test
Has anyone taken the town of Hempstead drawing part of exam? Any info would be much appreciated.
twinco
1
Re: AO smith ECC code
I have installed many dozens of heat pump water heaters of 3 brands: 1. Brad White, 2. A.O. Smith/State, and 3. Rheem. Most of them have been fine. I have had problems with all 3 brands. Motherboard replacements, and refrigerant leaks. With the units still under warranty, the manufacturers have all been cooperative with replacing both motherboards or whole units and they DON'T pay for labor. Sometimes they want the old unit returned, or just the mfg's label, or not at all. It seems that if something goes wrong with the compressor, they will replace the whole unit i.e. a new water heater. The compressors are not made to be repaired! Tech support is a mixed bag--mostly they are helpful. They of course generally want to be dealing with a field technician--NOT a homeowner. They want you to be on site and with diagnostic tools at-the-ready. Most of those experiences I have had, have been satisfactory. But...I generally feel "not right" charging the client for labor--and most times that is fairly extensive i.e. removal of old and install of new. I am now quite good at motherboard replacements. I am lucky if the board is at my supply houses! Sometimes the mfg. will send a new motherboard to me.
There have been quite a few "generations" of these units now-- 5, 6, 7? Some generations have been notoriously problematic. When they are installed well, in the right setting, they are efficient and economical. Sizing is fairly critical--40, 50, 65, or 80 gallon. Rheem also makes a 120v plug-in model.
I haven't handled any of these.
There have been quite a few "generations" of these units now-- 5, 6, 7? Some generations have been notoriously problematic. When they are installed well, in the right setting, they are efficient and economical. Sizing is fairly critical--40, 50, 65, or 80 gallon. Rheem also makes a 120v plug-in model.
I haven't handled any of these.
psb75
2
Re: Wall Brackets for Wall Hung Cast iron radiator
I make these brackets. I cut a piece of 3” pipe about 2” long and then cut that piece in half to make two u shaped pieces. I weld that piece of pipe to a piece of 1-1/2” X 3/8” flat stock about 6” long. 3/8” provides a distance from the wall that’s good for me. (It could be spaced farther out if you like). I drill 3 or 4, 5”16” holes in the flat stock to attach the bracket to the wall. The hole size depends on the anchors used.
I like to use two brackets because they have to go on the wall before the radiator. Install them level spaced out at each end. The radiator will nestle into two brackets nicely. The brackets need to be strongly attached to the wall. If it’s wood framing long strong screws need to go into the center of a wall stud.
The top attachments hold the radiator in place. I usually set the radiator on the brackets and mark where the top attachments will be. Sometimes I have to remove the radiator to get the top “Sammy” attachment into the wall before resetting the radiator and screwing in the threaded rod with nuts and washers, flat stock or any good means to pinch the radiator in place.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
I like to use two brackets because they have to go on the wall before the radiator. Install them level spaced out at each end. The radiator will nestle into two brackets nicely. The brackets need to be strongly attached to the wall. If it’s wood framing long strong screws need to go into the center of a wall stud.
The top attachments hold the radiator in place. I usually set the radiator on the brackets and mark where the top attachments will be. Sometimes I have to remove the radiator to get the top “Sammy” attachment into the wall before resetting the radiator and screwing in the threaded rod with nuts and washers, flat stock or any good means to pinch the radiator in place.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
JimP
1
Re: Proper pitch?
No, don't measure the floor. No telling what way that thing is pitching.
You have a tall section over there on the left that is messing up your measurement when you use the piece of wood. I wouldn't use that.
Probably best in your case is the one where you have the level on the bottom of the radiator. Try to get that pitch correct.
If there is still gurgling after you do that, the gurgling might be coming from the near-horizontal section of pipe that is typically just under the floor. To fix that you might be able to lift BOTH ends of your radiator slightly.
PS: if the person you hired didn't use a level, then what exactly did they do?
You have a tall section over there on the left that is messing up your measurement when you use the piece of wood. I wouldn't use that.
Probably best in your case is the one where you have the level on the bottom of the radiator. Try to get that pitch correct.
If there is still gurgling after you do that, the gurgling might be coming from the near-horizontal section of pipe that is typically just under the floor. To fix that you might be able to lift BOTH ends of your radiator slightly.
PS: if the person you hired didn't use a level, then what exactly did they do?
Re: Zone 2 Upstairs Thermostat placement.
Of course the master bedroom is going to be too hot. So you will need to close the vents in that room.
Re: Leaking radiator flanges
If you put something other than dish soap or never seize on the mating faces, such as pipe dope or high temp silicone or some such, make sure the film is then and very very even. It's a last ditch solution.
One other thing. As noted, the union nut is soft -- almost always brass -- and it's very easy to squish it or break it. Tightening it beyond hand tight plus half a turn is NOT going to help.
One other thing. As noted, the union nut is soft -- almost always brass -- and it's very easy to squish it or break it. Tightening it beyond hand tight plus half a turn is NOT going to help.
Re: 1903 Times Square Construction: Is the White Cladding Here Insulation? or Just Brick?
It's the old NYTimes building, north of Flatiron by 15 blocks or so. Broadway created both buildings and the other triangle ones as it cuts at a small angle away from the N/S streets
It's the one that the New Year's ball is on!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Times_Square
It's the one that the New Year's ball is on!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/One_Times_Square