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Re: you can't get good help........
I agree to a point Hot 🔥 Rod. I have read long and extensively on organized crime, 1% bikers, gang bangers, and American Immigration and never, have I read where The Irish Mob in NYC - The Westies or the Whitey Bolger -Boston Irish Mob or Mayor Richard Daly Irish thugs or La Cosa Nostra, The Bund, or Even Russian Mafia or Albanians wantonly shot, hacked to death with machetes, stabbed and mutilated innocent children who simply didn't want to join the gang. 20 miles from where I sit is Brentwood, Suffolk County. A HUGE contingent of MS-13 and the horrible, grisly murders of innocent girls and boys lured in to the woods to meet a horrific ending. Thankfully, after this The Feds and whole law enforcement world crushed them...for now. Less than 3 miles from here we got MS-13 gangs out in the open.. I see them all the time, sometimes on my pre-dawn bike rides through Hempstead. They are not an innocuous protective society for their women and children. They aren't out at 4am sweeping the sidewalks, and planting tulips on the median for the gentrification of Hempstead...6 miles away right next to my two Daughter's HS, MS-13 struck again...luring an innocent teenage boy who was just trying to stay away from them in to the woods to use their weapon of choice...The Machete....Painfully Hacked him to death and dumped him in the narrow strip of woods between the Meadowbrook Parkway and their HS.....less than 50 yards away from my daughters entrance!! NYC has it all. I've lived and worked amongst all the aforementioned gangs (sans the 1930s Long Island Bund Colony of Yaphank). my whole life...These gangs are the most vicious 😤 and threatening to the general innocent public than any other I have seen in my 55 years. Worst of all, they pray on their own.... Respectfully, Replying peace ✌ Mad Dog
Re: Equalizer disabled experiment video
Thanks Rusty!
Don't give me too much credit—that's the beauty of having a steam boiler in my house and working in a different industry, so when I get home I'm not sick of the topic 😅
Note that I don't think it doesn't have a function—it is a great drip from the header and there are edge cases where it will prevent the hartford loop from having an air bubble in it. I'm not sure when it got this name but apparently old books called it a "bleeder" or "drip".
What I hoped to show (and I think I have shown) is that it seems NOT to have any effect on the thing that the industry currently thinks is its most important function, to prevent the water from being pushed out of the boiler under normal operating conditions. Thanks again for your note.
Re: Honeywell supervent
The biggest issue here is that it's piped backwards. The pump needs to be on the downstream side of the Supervent/ expansion tank in order for the system to work properly. The odds are pretty slim that the Supervent needs any sort of service, but if it does, you can loosen that brass nut on the top and remove the guts without removing anything else.With that 4 way valve, the system pump is pumping away from the PONPC.
The boiler pump would be better on the return piping, but it should vent air as piped. It's a small, low pressure drop path from boiler, around 4 way and back to boiler. Looks like an 007 so it is not developing a lot of delta P.
It is piped in the hottest point in the system, that is the #1 mechanism for air removal, lowest pressure is second.
No harm in disassemble and inspection. If it has a lot of mineral scale, that too would indicate it is taking on fill water.
If there is a vent inside the boiler jacket, try screwing the cap closed.
hot_rod
1
Re: Honeywell supervent
Had the same thought. Someone else had a similar problem. Most thought there was a leak and makeup water was loading the system with air. While it may be piped correctly, a steady flow of fresh water into the vent has got to make thinks worse, my opinion.
Re: Honeywell supervent
The biggest issue here is that it's piped backwards. The pump needs to be on the downstream side of the Supervent/ expansion tank in order for the system to work properly. The odds are pretty slim that the Supervent needs any sort of service, but if it does, you can loosen that brass nut on the top and remove the guts without removing anything else.
GroundUp
1
Re: The "equalizer" is mis-named. It does nothing to equalize anything.
This whole post reminds me of a book called Pumping Away, how that author had the audacity to take on an entire industry of all knowing boiler engineers about expansion tank placement.
How dare he!
Wait until the book banners in Florida get a of that wokeness
woke: a state of being aware
ChrisJ
6
Re: A Liittle R & R for a few hours...
What does "SPOILER" mean, Erin? Mad DogIt's just a feature that comes with the forum software and is mostly used in forums where they discuss movies and TV shows. It's used to hide/reveal parts of posts that can contain spoilers about the endings to shows, etc.
Re: Embassy Onxy
I tried to send pics via phone but not working. However, the resting PSI is 15.
I had "former" plumber's tech come and do service on unit, replacing ignition rods and flame sensor (annual stuff) and he tried to sell me on a gas valve; he's worked on unit for the past three years (usually it's the owner's son). I was miffed by this (he always seems to find something the unit needs-I never trusted him) and right after he left, the "harmonics" started. I immediately called the rep at Embassy here in Melville to get his opinion of the new development. He informed me that if the gas value was a problem it wouldn't be a slow process but it would go bad without warning. He indicated to me that the unit probably need a gas valve adjustment. This is when I called the new plumber. The new plumber didn't find anything wrong and of course when he came....no harmonics. It still makes the noise so when the rep comes tomorrow I will deal with that issue, but the water "dripping" concerned me which I hadn't noticed when the new guy came.
I will have him look at the expansion tank and discuss the backflow prevention valve vent and the high pressure safety valve (which seems to me that this is what it might be).
I appreciate your diagnostic impromptu and will give an update in case anyone else might experience the kinds of issues.
Thanks!
I had "former" plumber's tech come and do service on unit, replacing ignition rods and flame sensor (annual stuff) and he tried to sell me on a gas valve; he's worked on unit for the past three years (usually it's the owner's son). I was miffed by this (he always seems to find something the unit needs-I never trusted him) and right after he left, the "harmonics" started. I immediately called the rep at Embassy here in Melville to get his opinion of the new development. He informed me that if the gas value was a problem it wouldn't be a slow process but it would go bad without warning. He indicated to me that the unit probably need a gas valve adjustment. This is when I called the new plumber. The new plumber didn't find anything wrong and of course when he came....no harmonics. It still makes the noise so when the rep comes tomorrow I will deal with that issue, but the water "dripping" concerned me which I hadn't noticed when the new guy came.
I will have him look at the expansion tank and discuss the backflow prevention valve vent and the high pressure safety valve (which seems to me that this is what it might be).
I appreciate your diagnostic impromptu and will give an update in case anyone else might experience the kinds of issues.
Thanks!
GB 142, flameout at startup.
I’d like to address what seems to be a not uncommon issue with this boiler. I had the issue of watching at startup a gentle blue flame would be blown out by what I observed through the site glass as a wind. It would cycle through properly but code 6A, repeat and eventually lock out. I tried lots of different ideas suggested by this site and reading the manual.
I admit the boiler needed cleaning which I paid for but got an unsatisfactory job. I did it my self several times after learning the proper way. This did not cure the issue but was necessary anyway.
Holding my hand over the snorkel loosely at startup would get it to ignite. This act cut down the “wind” allowing it to ignite. Once I removed my hand it would stay lit but you could see the wind return.
It seemed to me I needed to find where the extra air was comming from. I wrapped the top of the chamber to seal that gasket with tape. It would not ignite. Next the bottom plate. Same result. I removed the tape each time so I was only dealing with one variable at a time. I lit the boiler using my hand to cover the snorkel again. Next I gently pushed on the fan motor. This totally changed the flame and calmed the air down. I took the assembly apart as far as I could given my tools at hand. What I realized was, there is a rubber bushing between the motor and fan housing that had dry rotted and the source if the extra air. I replaced the fan/motor assembly and it was good as new.
Just to let you know I did check to make sure the boiler had the correct set up as far as resistance and air/gas ratio was concerned. That all checked out.
I hope this helps someone else down the road. I spent many hours cleaning it and diagnosing it. Good luck. Be safe.
I admit the boiler needed cleaning which I paid for but got an unsatisfactory job. I did it my self several times after learning the proper way. This did not cure the issue but was necessary anyway.
Holding my hand over the snorkel loosely at startup would get it to ignite. This act cut down the “wind” allowing it to ignite. Once I removed my hand it would stay lit but you could see the wind return.
It seemed to me I needed to find where the extra air was comming from. I wrapped the top of the chamber to seal that gasket with tape. It would not ignite. Next the bottom plate. Same result. I removed the tape each time so I was only dealing with one variable at a time. I lit the boiler using my hand to cover the snorkel again. Next I gently pushed on the fan motor. This totally changed the flame and calmed the air down. I took the assembly apart as far as I could given my tools at hand. What I realized was, there is a rubber bushing between the motor and fan housing that had dry rotted and the source if the extra air. I replaced the fan/motor assembly and it was good as new.
Just to let you know I did check to make sure the boiler had the correct set up as far as resistance and air/gas ratio was concerned. That all checked out.
I hope this helps someone else down the road. I spent many hours cleaning it and diagnosing it. Good luck. Be safe.
flameout
3