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Re: Softener, PRV, Expansion Tank
Most tanks have heat trapper nipples, either a rubber flapper or plastic ball inside. I don't think they are a "bubble tight" seal, so the pressure would bleed through to the tank. I can blow through this one, the flapper is a bit smaller than the ID of the nipple.The expansion tank is on the cold side of the water heater. Is there a heat trapping nipple or check valve on the cold inlet?You wouldn't think so from the factory as most of them rely on the city water (without PRV etc) or well tank for expansion purposes.
Though, now that you mention it, it looks like they did use dielectric unions which isn't necessary on a Bradford White and in my opinion, would likely cause more issues than they solve. But that's a totally different subject.
hot_rod
2
Re: Like a boy with new Toy Blocks & Erector set at Christmas 🎄
Its a factory epoxy...I prefer this connection for the following reasons:
1) I can't stand PVC closet flanges or the metal ring type. I've see the metal ones rust off after 10 years and the pvc ones get brittle an snap off...NOW YOURE SCREWED!
2) a Lead bend is very tight dimensionially, yet a nice 👌 radius for flow.
3) I can roll a lead bend on unorthodox angles (where fittings can't) to avoid cutting floor joists.
4) I leave a 6" x 12" pvc sleeve around the lead bend so the tile guy doesn't bury me like the always seem to. When Mud job and tile are complete, I can wiggle out the sleeve and now I've got ample room to kick the lead in any direction I want to dial in my wall distance gap to the tank. Every bowl is different and there's nothing I hate more than seeing 2"s between the back of the toilet 🚻 tank and the wall!!!
5) The Brass closet flange soldered to the lead bend will likely hold up longer than the pvc itself...time will tell.
That's why I love 💘 lead bends. Mad Dog 🐕
1) I can't stand PVC closet flanges or the metal ring type. I've see the metal ones rust off after 10 years and the pvc ones get brittle an snap off...NOW YOURE SCREWED!
2) a Lead bend is very tight dimensionially, yet a nice 👌 radius for flow.
3) I can roll a lead bend on unorthodox angles (where fittings can't) to avoid cutting floor joists.
4) I leave a 6" x 12" pvc sleeve around the lead bend so the tile guy doesn't bury me like the always seem to. When Mud job and tile are complete, I can wiggle out the sleeve and now I've got ample room to kick the lead in any direction I want to dial in my wall distance gap to the tank. Every bowl is different and there's nothing I hate more than seeing 2"s between the back of the toilet 🚻 tank and the wall!!!
5) The Brass closet flange soldered to the lead bend will likely hold up longer than the pvc itself...time will tell.
That's why I love 💘 lead bends. Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Need advice on Low-Water Cut-Off water feeder
Cut out what you can , then run a tap to clean the threads ..
Big Ed_4
1
Zone Problems with Boiler
I have a gas boiler HW heating system with a taco circulator pump for each zone that worked fine last season. When turning it on for the 1st time this season I found a problem with the boiler not running on one of the zones.
If I turn on the heat to zone 1 I hear the system actuate(clicks and such)and the boiler fires up and runs for about a minute and then shuts down.
If I turn on the heat to zone 1 I hear the system actuate(clicks and such)and the boiler fires up and runs for about a minute and then shuts down.
If I turn on the heat to zone 2 the system actuates and the boiler fires up and runs fine.
While zone 2 is running if I turn up the thermostat for zone 1 the circulator pump turns on and runs fine for zone 1. But, when I turn down the thermostat for zone 2 the boiler shuts down even though zone 1 is still calling for heat.
I attempted to figure a solution searching online and since it had an old/original S8610U Intermittent Pilot Control Module I swapped that out today with no improvement.
While zone 2 is running if I turn up the thermostat for zone 1 the circulator pump turns on and runs fine for zone 1. But, when I turn down the thermostat for zone 2 the boiler shuts down even though zone 1 is still calling for heat.
I attempted to figure a solution searching online and since it had an old/original S8610U Intermittent Pilot Control Module I swapped that out today with no improvement.
EDIT - PROBLEM RESOLVED!
A shout out to user Intplm for having me look at the most obvious thing that I should have realized to do in the 1st place.
A shout out to user Intplm for having me look at the most obvious thing that I should have realized to do in the 1st place.
When I turned the thermostat up to call for heat in zone 1(1st floor) the boiler responded, ignited and ran for around a full minute each time. This made me just skip the step of checking the thermostat since a signal was obviously getting to the boiler.
The existing thermostat is a dumb, heat only Honeywell ct87k that is 5 years old. Since the unit was responding to the thermostat I figured it was a long shot but I followed the advice of Intplm and jumped the wires at the thermostat and the system not only responded and fired up, but it kept running normally. I just finished installing a new Honeywell ck87k that I grabbed at Lowe’s and the system is running fine.
Being such a rudimentary heat only thermostat I figured if the system responded and ran for at least a minute the comms from the Thermostat were fine.
Thank you all for your responses and help with this!
The existing thermostat is a dumb, heat only Honeywell ct87k that is 5 years old. Since the unit was responding to the thermostat I figured it was a long shot but I followed the advice of Intplm and jumped the wires at the thermostat and the system not only responded and fired up, but it kept running normally. I just finished installing a new Honeywell ck87k that I grabbed at Lowe’s and the system is running fine.
Being such a rudimentary heat only thermostat I figured if the system responded and ran for at least a minute the comms from the Thermostat were fine.
Thank you all for your responses and help with this!
Re: The last word about c-wire thermostats and wiring diagrams.
Understanding the C wire might be as elusive as understanding some female anatomy. Everyone has a theory and they also think yours is way off base.Of course you know this but here's how it makes sense to me.
A couple decades ago, the electrician we used to hire to wire our boilers gave me a piece of electrical theory that I've never forgotten: "Everything we deal with is either a power source, a switch, or a load." He went on to explain that we start at the source and end up at the load. In our case, the load was most often a gas valve or a pump. Everything in between was a switch.
The C-wire converts the thermostat from a simple switch to a combination switch and load. It both consumes power (charging, display, integral logic, etc) and allows or interrupts power through it to the burner circuit, terminating at the gas valve. Now, the same can be said of a probe-type low water cut off, and also a motorized vent damper or zone valve. These are combination loads and switches. Simple!
A switch just needs a power wire to one side of it and the switching action opens or closes the circuit to permit or interrupt the continuity of that path to the load.
A load requires a path back to neutral or ground to allow for a constant flow of power. That's the third *C wire.
If someone here can say this clearly in fewer words, please be my guest. My students will thank you.
JohnNY
8
Re: Softener, PRV, Expansion Tank
Is it possible they have set the expansion tank at a higher psi allowing the pressure to rise to 70 even though the PRV is at 58?
SG17
1
Re: Heating Pros: Please Help Us With This Quick Survey
Done, I do mostly service work with limited new installs.
So I look at older CI units that are very simple to troubleshoot.....usually.
So I look at older CI units that are very simple to troubleshoot.....usually.
JUGHNE
2
Re: Heating Pros: Please Help Us With This Quick Survey
Thank you all for sharing your thoughts with us. This was meant to be an overview and that is why it's short. Your feedback has been very insightful and we appreciate you taking the time.
Re: New Main Vents
I had a plumber master vent the risers. They taped the riser pipe before the shutoff valve of the radiator with a Gorton #2. This way the entire riser vents quickly.
question
2
Re: Softener, PRV, Expansion Tank
It probably is normal -- it depends entirely on the acceptance volume of the expansion tank relative to the volume of the water heater. In your case, I'm guessing that the expansion tank is the cute little thing teed off the water heater. That will tend to reduce water hammer, particularly in the lines connected directly to it, but it's much too small to control pressure variations caused by temperature changes in that big water heater.
