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Re: Dry contact thermostat
I wonder if that ancient 3 piece circulator burned up the relay for the DH loop in the boiler.
mattmia2
1
Re: Lochinvar Epic EPB080N Vs IBC VX110 boiler quality and operating noise query
Do your Quotes reflect combustion air piped to the boiler ?
Both will sound like a mini Jet engine @ high fire if you take the combustion air from the inside vs outside...
IMO the intake air can be very Loud and annoying if not handled correctly..
On our last 10.000 feet/LP gas Lochinvar install we used the existing B vent for our exhaust and combustion air as per manufacturers installation instructions.
On our last IBC SL series install i did not see this option in the installation instructions.
I am guessing that both boilers will be in the same db rating.
Both boilers are great boilers but one should remember that a boiler is only as good as the support that you receive after the install.
Do your Contractors have a Service Kit for the proposed boilers?
May i ask why the VX series with the 6.5:1 turn down vs the SL series with the 10:1 turn down and better piping take offs?
Both will sound like a mini Jet engine @ high fire if you take the combustion air from the inside vs outside...
IMO the intake air can be very Loud and annoying if not handled correctly..
On our last 10.000 feet/LP gas Lochinvar install we used the existing B vent for our exhaust and combustion air as per manufacturers installation instructions.
On our last IBC SL series install i did not see this option in the installation instructions.
I am guessing that both boilers will be in the same db rating.
Both boilers are great boilers but one should remember that a boiler is only as good as the support that you receive after the install.
Do your Contractors have a Service Kit for the proposed boilers?
May i ask why the VX series with the 6.5:1 turn down vs the SL series with the 10:1 turn down and better piping take offs?
Re: Replacing Oil Boiler with Gas Boiler in CT
With limited space, the EK-1 Frontier with the tank stand might work for you.It can also be sidewall vented which might be beneficial.
You'd have to work out the cost difference between Fuel Oil and LPG to see if it's worth the conversion.
If it were me, and I was converting, I'd go with the Accel CS.
Keep in mind, with the Frontier you could stay with oil now and convert to gas down the road with only a burner swap and dip switch settings.
HVACNUT
3
Re: Does the boiler need replacement
Hi, an update my friend got the boiler replaced with an Ascent from EK. However they left the old oil lines abandoned in the floor, is it possible to cut these off at the floor? If so, are there any special precautions ? 
Re: I bought a used NTI boiler
used boiler experiment
has this system always been hot-water?
if so, then the crud is probably all ready to flow out when you disconnect the old boiler, although a strainer is a very good idea, if it will be cleaned regularly.
is this new boiler sized properly to the heat-loss?--nbc
has this system always been hot-water?
if so, then the crud is probably all ready to flow out when you disconnect the old boiler, although a strainer is a very good idea, if it will be cleaned regularly.
is this new boiler sized properly to the heat-loss?--nbc
Re: Radiator in unfinished attic
I have heard tale that durning the depression in a near by early 1900 community that after the stock market crash that money was such a concern that in fact the wealthy had the servants finished 3 floor living quarters removed to lower the property taxes .supposly they would completely unassembly the old slate roofs ,rafters everything remove the outside walls and put the roof back on . I was not only told this by a old timer but had been in a few attics where in fact not only radiators but also sinks ,tunes and toilets where stick in place no wall but tile still on the floor. I guess labor was beyond cheap and every body needed to work . Peace and good luck clammy
clammy
1
Re: Best soot removal method.
Me neither. You guys ever heard of ZEP-45? Used it 35 years ago. It was MUCH better than WD-40, but had all kinds of warnings on the can..."banned in California...blah blah." Probably banned now or watered down version. Mad Dog
Re: What should i do in this case?
Exactly how far you need to go depends on whether you have steam or hot water heat. I'll get to that.
This will assume that you do not have a generator and that you are, in fact, out of oil.
Domestic plumbing. If you are on city water, turn off the water at the house entrance. Open all the faucets all the way, and flush all the toilets. Open any drains or hose bibs on the domestic water. Turn off the power to the water heater and drain that. Get some RV antifreeze. I say again RV antifreeze. Do NOT use automotive antifreeze. Plunger the toilet bowls to get as much water out as you can, then add enough RV antifreeze to each one and to the tank for the toilet to make about a 50/50 mixture. Then add RV antifreeze to all sink and shower and what have you traps.
This will give you a good chance that you won't have frozen pipes. It is NOT a guarantee. There may well be low spots in the plumbing which will hold water. They may freeze despite your best efforts.
So... to turn the water back on, close all the faucets and drains and what have you. Turn the main valve on, but listen for any evidence of water leaking and be prepared to turn it back off again. Go around and open all the faucets and let any air out. Particularly the hot water. When you get no more air, turn the power for the water heater back on.
Now the heat. For either type of heat, turn off the power to the boiler.
If you have steam heat, unless it is an extended emergency, the basement where the boiler is is unlikely to freeze, so you don't need to do anything. If it is an extended emergency, open the boiler drains and any drains on the wet returns. There's no need to do anything else.
If you have hot water heat, this assumes you do not have glycol in your system. You will need to drain the system completely. Open any drains you can find in the basement. Go around and open the air release valves on all the radiators. If there were any radiators which were turned off or turned down, open the valves fully.. If the expansion tank is mounted with the water connection up (air on the bottom), disconnect it and empty it. Close the connecting valve to the domestic water.
To restart the system, you will need to refill it and purge all the air. Take your time. Like the domestic water, there is a chance that not everything will have drained, and you may have some frozen pipes despite your best efforts.
Or make sure you have a properly connected whole house generator, enough fuel on hand to run it for a couple of hours a day for a week or so, and enough fuel oil in the tank...
This will assume that you do not have a generator and that you are, in fact, out of oil.
Domestic plumbing. If you are on city water, turn off the water at the house entrance. Open all the faucets all the way, and flush all the toilets. Open any drains or hose bibs on the domestic water. Turn off the power to the water heater and drain that. Get some RV antifreeze. I say again RV antifreeze. Do NOT use automotive antifreeze. Plunger the toilet bowls to get as much water out as you can, then add enough RV antifreeze to each one and to the tank for the toilet to make about a 50/50 mixture. Then add RV antifreeze to all sink and shower and what have you traps.
This will give you a good chance that you won't have frozen pipes. It is NOT a guarantee. There may well be low spots in the plumbing which will hold water. They may freeze despite your best efforts.
So... to turn the water back on, close all the faucets and drains and what have you. Turn the main valve on, but listen for any evidence of water leaking and be prepared to turn it back off again. Go around and open all the faucets and let any air out. Particularly the hot water. When you get no more air, turn the power for the water heater back on.
Now the heat. For either type of heat, turn off the power to the boiler.
If you have steam heat, unless it is an extended emergency, the basement where the boiler is is unlikely to freeze, so you don't need to do anything. If it is an extended emergency, open the boiler drains and any drains on the wet returns. There's no need to do anything else.
If you have hot water heat, this assumes you do not have glycol in your system. You will need to drain the system completely. Open any drains you can find in the basement. Go around and open the air release valves on all the radiators. If there were any radiators which were turned off or turned down, open the valves fully.. If the expansion tank is mounted with the water connection up (air on the bottom), disconnect it and empty it. Close the connecting valve to the domestic water.
To restart the system, you will need to refill it and purge all the air. Take your time. Like the domestic water, there is a chance that not everything will have drained, and you may have some frozen pipes despite your best efforts.
Or make sure you have a properly connected whole house generator, enough fuel on hand to run it for a couple of hours a day for a week or so, and enough fuel oil in the tank...
Re: Pigtail plugged or Pressuretrol issue? Both?
The system is serviced annually by a local company that specializes in steam systems (found them here, actually) and they've been very tolerant of my questions while they work. Last full maintenance was in July 2022, but just last month I had the plumbing company that installed the system out to diagnose a problem with the indirect hot water system, and that technician checked the pigtail and pressuretrol, or said he had.
ksmith
1
To much venting
I have 2 Gorton #1 on a main run about 33' from the boiler. The other side is only 7' run from the boiler to the riser and it does not have a vent. If I had a 3rd #1 where I have the other 2 will I be allowing the steam to travel to that side of the house much faster causing the other side to now have slower movement of steam to those radiators?
