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Re: What should i do in this case?
Exactly how far you need to go depends on whether you have steam or hot water heat. I'll get to that.
This will assume that you do not have a generator and that you are, in fact, out of oil.
Domestic plumbing. If you are on city water, turn off the water at the house entrance. Open all the faucets all the way, and flush all the toilets. Open any drains or hose bibs on the domestic water. Turn off the power to the water heater and drain that. Get some RV antifreeze. I say again RV antifreeze. Do NOT use automotive antifreeze. Plunger the toilet bowls to get as much water out as you can, then add enough RV antifreeze to each one and to the tank for the toilet to make about a 50/50 mixture. Then add RV antifreeze to all sink and shower and what have you traps.
This will give you a good chance that you won't have frozen pipes. It is NOT a guarantee. There may well be low spots in the plumbing which will hold water. They may freeze despite your best efforts.
So... to turn the water back on, close all the faucets and drains and what have you. Turn the main valve on, but listen for any evidence of water leaking and be prepared to turn it back off again. Go around and open all the faucets and let any air out. Particularly the hot water. When you get no more air, turn the power for the water heater back on.
Now the heat. For either type of heat, turn off the power to the boiler.
If you have steam heat, unless it is an extended emergency, the basement where the boiler is is unlikely to freeze, so you don't need to do anything. If it is an extended emergency, open the boiler drains and any drains on the wet returns. There's no need to do anything else.
If you have hot water heat, this assumes you do not have glycol in your system. You will need to drain the system completely. Open any drains you can find in the basement. Go around and open the air release valves on all the radiators. If there were any radiators which were turned off or turned down, open the valves fully.. If the expansion tank is mounted with the water connection up (air on the bottom), disconnect it and empty it. Close the connecting valve to the domestic water.
To restart the system, you will need to refill it and purge all the air. Take your time. Like the domestic water, there is a chance that not everything will have drained, and you may have some frozen pipes despite your best efforts.
Or make sure you have a properly connected whole house generator, enough fuel on hand to run it for a couple of hours a day for a week or so, and enough fuel oil in the tank...
This will assume that you do not have a generator and that you are, in fact, out of oil.
Domestic plumbing. If you are on city water, turn off the water at the house entrance. Open all the faucets all the way, and flush all the toilets. Open any drains or hose bibs on the domestic water. Turn off the power to the water heater and drain that. Get some RV antifreeze. I say again RV antifreeze. Do NOT use automotive antifreeze. Plunger the toilet bowls to get as much water out as you can, then add enough RV antifreeze to each one and to the tank for the toilet to make about a 50/50 mixture. Then add RV antifreeze to all sink and shower and what have you traps.
This will give you a good chance that you won't have frozen pipes. It is NOT a guarantee. There may well be low spots in the plumbing which will hold water. They may freeze despite your best efforts.
So... to turn the water back on, close all the faucets and drains and what have you. Turn the main valve on, but listen for any evidence of water leaking and be prepared to turn it back off again. Go around and open all the faucets and let any air out. Particularly the hot water. When you get no more air, turn the power for the water heater back on.
Now the heat. For either type of heat, turn off the power to the boiler.
If you have steam heat, unless it is an extended emergency, the basement where the boiler is is unlikely to freeze, so you don't need to do anything. If it is an extended emergency, open the boiler drains and any drains on the wet returns. There's no need to do anything else.
If you have hot water heat, this assumes you do not have glycol in your system. You will need to drain the system completely. Open any drains you can find in the basement. Go around and open the air release valves on all the radiators. If there were any radiators which were turned off or turned down, open the valves fully.. If the expansion tank is mounted with the water connection up (air on the bottom), disconnect it and empty it. Close the connecting valve to the domestic water.
To restart the system, you will need to refill it and purge all the air. Take your time. Like the domestic water, there is a chance that not everything will have drained, and you may have some frozen pipes despite your best efforts.
Or make sure you have a properly connected whole house generator, enough fuel on hand to run it for a couple of hours a day for a week or so, and enough fuel oil in the tank...
Re: Pigtail plugged or Pressuretrol issue? Both?
The system is serviced annually by a local company that specializes in steam systems (found them here, actually) and they've been very tolerant of my questions while they work. Last full maintenance was in July 2022, but just last month I had the plumbing company that installed the system out to diagnose a problem with the indirect hot water system, and that technician checked the pigtail and pressuretrol, or said he had.
ksmith
1
To much venting
I have 2 Gorton #1 on a main run about 33' from the boiler. The other side is only 7' run from the boiler to the riser and it does not have a vent. If I had a 3rd #1 where I have the other 2 will I be allowing the steam to travel to that side of the house much faster causing the other side to now have slower movement of steam to those radiators?
Re: Comparing energy usage: 1 year of gas heat vs. 2 years of heat pump
Where do we have to realize this?Hot_water_fan said:We have to realize that most heating hours aren’t that cold. People can get a little too fixated on what COP at some 1% temperature is. So seasonal COP vs AFUE is just fine - this isn’t rocket science. Few people will pay for a redundant heating source to save a trivial amount unless it’s extremely cheap to install.
Curious what general area are you in. If you mentioned it already I apologize I've been sick
ChrisJ
1
Re: Comparing energy usage: 1 year of gas heat vs. 2 years of heat pump
Hot_water_fan said:@fentonc bingo, I considered leaving the cost data out because it’s only relevant to others in my utility area and can be too much of a distraction. Obviously it works great for me, but not every other person. The COP is the important part. Trading ~1900kwh for ~240 therms is efficient!
How many therms were used to create that 1900kwh?
ChrisJ
2
Re: What likely caused this horrible corrosion on copper return from cast iron radiator?
What insulation? What material is the hairline crack in? I posted a close up photo below the floor that may show iron going to copper? What is the blue-green pipe going under the floor?
https://i.imgur.com/wj2C37f.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wj2C37f.jpg
Re: What is the future of Hydronics?
I think hydronics and steam will sooner or later sadly end up like the dodo bird gone like ancient Mayan history being the smarter and wiser one have all the fantasy worked out on paper or do they ? Does it works in practical application ,let’s look at that wagon w everybody in at its heavier then the cart or wheels can handle or the road for that fact . The major fact is that the lowest possible economical group will be the most effected not the wealthy they will still be on fossil fuel and they will work out there deal to get some one else to pay mainly us . I think as time goes hot water will and has been get edged out of the new home market . Everybody wants it all in one basket and builders and gc s what the highest profit in there pocket answer air based system sure they use more electric but the future say electric will be produced from one arse if you believe that I’m selling stock in dirt and air . I highly doubt the great thinkers of previous eras would believe such ,the division of the human condition and lack of unity and separation of complete groups by a pin on label is further manipulation to divide humans isolate them to more easier conquer and rule . Time goes on but the craving for some to force there will on the masses of humanity continues remember it’s easy to win when you divide the groups and feed them miss information to separate them further . Used by gangis khan to conquer the world ions ago . Peace and good luck always based on reality clammy
clammy
3
Re: What is the future of Hydronics?
There are probably some places that could use solar thermal, but I dont imagine they get much snow.
A good way to make heat for a pool or dhw in the more southerly lats perhaps ?
Im still trying to figure out if they're going to try migrating bits of the existing natgas piping network to hydrogen at some point.
A good way to make heat for a pool or dhw in the more southerly lats perhaps ?
Im still trying to figure out if they're going to try migrating bits of the existing natgas piping network to hydrogen at some point.
Re: What is the future of Hydronics?
My crystal ball says changes in the distribution, sales, and installation/service models will affect your career more than traditional fuels vs electric and hydronic vs forced air.
Disruptive change is coming to this industry.
Disruptive change is coming to this industry.
WMno57
3
Re: What is the future of Hydronics?
Sadly, I think the future for any fossil fuel-fired heating equipment looks bleak. I believe it's based on the premise that electricity is less hurtful to the environment, which I believe to be wrong.
Hydronics are the most comfortable heating method, safe to operate, and very efficient.
Hot Rod is right, there is big money being invested into air to water heat pumps
Hydronics are the most comfortable heating method, safe to operate, and very efficient.
Hot Rod is right, there is big money being invested into air to water heat pumps