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Re: My pressure tank to the well is filling very slowly
I agree on the second tank. It may also have been used for water hammer, or for hot water expansion.
On the well, though... not so sure. What I read is that eventually the well pump can boost the pressure to your set 50 psi, but it does it very slowly. Further, that when it does finally get there the pressure switch opens as it is supposed to.
This tells me that your surmise is quite correct: there is something going on which keeps your well and pump from keeping up, or even being close to keeping up.
So... what kind of pump are we dealing with here, since the possible problems are different for different arrangements. Is this a shallow well jet pump (the pump is in your basement, most likely, and there is a single suction pipe from the pump going down the well with a foot valve)? Is it a deep well jet pump (the pump is, again, in your basement, but there are two pipes down the well, and the jet itself is at the bottom or near the bottom of the well)? Or is it a submersible pump (the pump itself is down in the well somewhere)?
There are two problems which are more or less independent of the type of pump: first, the pump motor may be failing. This is rare, but does happen (a good submersible, for instance, has an expected life of more than 50 years). Related, the pump impellor or impellors may be damaged, usually from sand or silt in the well water. The second is far more serious: something may have changed in the well itself, or in the vicinity of the well, so that either standing water (when the pump is off) or the rate at which water can reenter the well (called recharge) has dropped. Either one will mean that your pump has to lift the water from a greater depth than previously, and will result in reduced flow (in the extreme, of course, the water level will drop to the pump intake or the pump itself, for a submersible, and result in no flow at all to speak of)(if a submersible is run dry, it will fail very quickly, by the way, so you don't want to do that).
With jet pumps -- either deep well or shallow well -- there is a strainer at the bottom of the pipe in the well. This should never get clogged, but there is a chance it might if, somehow, something might have gotten dropped into the well. There is also a foot valve down there which could get clogged or hang up partly closed, though again that is rare. Either could be checked, however, by pulling the drop pipe(s) and just taking a look.
In a deep well jet pump, it is possible that there is a leak in the motive pipe which takes water from the pump and runs it back down the well to the jet. That will reduce pumping efficiency a lot, but shouldn't lead to overheating of the pump motor itself (which you mentioned was a problem).
Submersible pumps have -- or should have -- a check valve at the pump. It is almost beyond rare for that to fail partly closed (although it isn't all that uncommon for it to fail open). Checking it, however, is not for the faint of heart, as it means pulling the entire drop pipe string and the pump.
If there is a problem with the well itself... has anything local happened which might have affected the groundwater? Construction in the vicinity? New foundation drains near the well? Yard drains? In any event, a competent well driller should be able to determine the static and operating water levels over time in the well, along with yield. That investigation should, however, not be undertaken until possible problems with the pump have been investigated.
On the well, though... not so sure. What I read is that eventually the well pump can boost the pressure to your set 50 psi, but it does it very slowly. Further, that when it does finally get there the pressure switch opens as it is supposed to.
This tells me that your surmise is quite correct: there is something going on which keeps your well and pump from keeping up, or even being close to keeping up.
So... what kind of pump are we dealing with here, since the possible problems are different for different arrangements. Is this a shallow well jet pump (the pump is in your basement, most likely, and there is a single suction pipe from the pump going down the well with a foot valve)? Is it a deep well jet pump (the pump is, again, in your basement, but there are two pipes down the well, and the jet itself is at the bottom or near the bottom of the well)? Or is it a submersible pump (the pump itself is down in the well somewhere)?
There are two problems which are more or less independent of the type of pump: first, the pump motor may be failing. This is rare, but does happen (a good submersible, for instance, has an expected life of more than 50 years). Related, the pump impellor or impellors may be damaged, usually from sand or silt in the well water. The second is far more serious: something may have changed in the well itself, or in the vicinity of the well, so that either standing water (when the pump is off) or the rate at which water can reenter the well (called recharge) has dropped. Either one will mean that your pump has to lift the water from a greater depth than previously, and will result in reduced flow (in the extreme, of course, the water level will drop to the pump intake or the pump itself, for a submersible, and result in no flow at all to speak of)(if a submersible is run dry, it will fail very quickly, by the way, so you don't want to do that).
With jet pumps -- either deep well or shallow well -- there is a strainer at the bottom of the pipe in the well. This should never get clogged, but there is a chance it might if, somehow, something might have gotten dropped into the well. There is also a foot valve down there which could get clogged or hang up partly closed, though again that is rare. Either could be checked, however, by pulling the drop pipe(s) and just taking a look.
In a deep well jet pump, it is possible that there is a leak in the motive pipe which takes water from the pump and runs it back down the well to the jet. That will reduce pumping efficiency a lot, but shouldn't lead to overheating of the pump motor itself (which you mentioned was a problem).
Submersible pumps have -- or should have -- a check valve at the pump. It is almost beyond rare for that to fail partly closed (although it isn't all that uncommon for it to fail open). Checking it, however, is not for the faint of heart, as it means pulling the entire drop pipe string and the pump.
If there is a problem with the well itself... has anything local happened which might have affected the groundwater? Construction in the vicinity? New foundation drains near the well? Yard drains? In any event, a competent well driller should be able to determine the static and operating water levels over time in the well, along with yield. That investigation should, however, not be undertaken until possible problems with the pump have been investigated.
Re: My pressure tank to the well is filling very slowly
You are on the right track.
The nipple connecting the pressure switch to the tank cross is probably plugged.
If you decide to go to the trouble of repairing it yourself, I would change the nipple and the pressure switch.
Be sure to have the pressure switch set at the pressure of your tank on the floor.
As to the tank above.
Your description tells me that this tank is water-logged and should also be replaced.
I'm guessing that tank is installed because you have or have had a closed domestic water system that had or has a backflow preventer or check valve installed somewhere. I cant be sure due to the angle of the picture.
That tank will need to be replaced too.
The nipple connecting the pressure switch to the tank cross is probably plugged.
If you decide to go to the trouble of repairing it yourself, I would change the nipple and the pressure switch.
Be sure to have the pressure switch set at the pressure of your tank on the floor.
As to the tank above.
Your description tells me that this tank is water-logged and should also be replaced.
I'm guessing that tank is installed because you have or have had a closed domestic water system that had or has a backflow preventer or check valve installed somewhere. I cant be sure due to the angle of the picture.
That tank will need to be replaced too.
Intplm.
1
Re: Dole Radiator Bleeder Valve?
My house (1956) also has these. They are not "automatic bleeder valves." They are simple, plain old manual bleeder valves, counterclockwise to vent, clockwise to tighten (as indicated by your second shot). In my house some took a little force with a wrench to loosen, I don't think they'd been touched for a long time, but once they unfroze, mine worked fine for me; the two baseboards which were not warming as much on my top floor hissed air for a few seconds, then water came out.
I hope you resolved your issue, but I just wanted to answer the Q for anyone else who might stumble on this in the future (this was the only reference I could find to these anywhere).
I hope you resolved your issue, but I just wanted to answer the Q for anyone else who might stumble on this in the future (this was the only reference I could find to these anywhere).
1
Re: Another New A2W HP
R290 (propane) is already here and is used in food service refrigeration. I know True is using it. No different from other refrigerants except it is obviously flammable but the service procedures are not much different. Evacuating and charging are basically the same. The whole charge needs to be removed and purged with nitrogen to do and refrigerant repairs or brazing could be exiting if the procedures are not followedThe only difference is those Systems are limited to 6 or 7 Oz total charge of R-290. 1 workaround is having 2 complete and independent Systems in the same cabinet.
pecmsg
2
Re: Can't get combustion right
Maybe turn the screw the other way. O2 and Co2 readings are dependent on each other o2 goes up Co2 goes down and vise versa. Your analyzer only measures 1 (probably 02) and the Co2 is calculated in the analyzer.
Re: Can't get combustion right
Is the UEI in good repair/calibration?
A guy I know keeps a Bacharach wet kit in his truck to verify his Testo if he runs into something that doesn't seem right.
Other than that, it sounds like an air leak.
MaxMercy
1
Re: Oil to Gas Conversion Options
Before I make a final decision on CI+indirect, I did find a local Energy Kinetics dealer and have them coming over tomorrow. I suspect the price difference might be too much, but we'll see.
1
Re: Dunham steam traps

Here are the specs for the old Dunham 30 series F&T traps from page 10 of the Dunham General Products Bulletin of Low-Pressure Steam Heating Appliances, which you can find here:
Dunham General Products Bulletin of Low-Pressure Steam Heating Appliances
I don't think you'll go wrong with Mepco traps; when C. A. Dunham ceased operations, Mepco took over the manufacture of all the Dunham steam traps, so in that regard Dunham = Mepco (compare the above with the attached Mepco 30 brochure). That said, unless I'm mistaken, the smallest 30 series trap they currently make is the 30-7, which is an 1-1/2" trap, so your contractor should substitute the Mepco 44-2 (3/4") H-pattern trap instead. Don't let him sell you a 30-7 and bush it down, either. A 30-7 is way OVERSIZE and probably costs more than 4x the price of a 44-2. The 44-2, being an H-pattern trap, is also much easier to service; all of the guts come out attached to the face-plate and you just change it as an assembly, without having to touch any of the pipes.
1
Re: Is it really Necessary
Replacing phillips screw that they put in a place you can't get a screwdriver with allen head screws can make them easier to install and remove.
1
