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Re: Speed question about Taco 007 vs. 0015e3
The 0015e3 set on medium speed has a very similar performance to the 007.
When you say you have an issue raising the temperature inside from 64 to 68 degrees, what do you mean?
Does is take an ungodly amount of time or is it different amount of time from month to month and hard to track?
Has it always been that way for the past 24 years or is it a recent issue?
When you say you have an issue raising the temperature inside from 64 to 68 degrees, what do you mean?
Does is take an ungodly amount of time or is it different amount of time from month to month and hard to track?
Has it always been that way for the past 24 years or is it a recent issue?
Dave H_2
1
How bad is it going to be to repair this leak?
Hey guys. Found a leak in my hydronic baseboard pipe. Of course it's in a tricky spot... An elbow that goes into the wall, in a corner of a room. I also can't quite tell where the leak is - I thought it was coming from the solder joint between the elbow and the pipe but then it seems to be coming from the pipe itself.
Needless to say this is above my level as a homeowner. I've only repaired straight runs with lots of space.
Emergency boiler guy is coming this afternoon. Just want to brace myself for how difficult it's going to be...
amin1992
1
Re: Can I just add two radiators to my system
So you have a mix of fin tube and cast iron radiators? Those heat up much differently and don't always get along well on the same zone.
If it is one series loop now, the more heat emitters you add, the lower the water temperature as it reaches the end units, that could be an issue also, heat output will drop off.
Copper fin tube warms in seconds, cast rads can take 15- 30 minutes to get some noticeable heat.
Ideally they would be on separate zones.
Bleeding air from radiators below the boiler level takes some pretty good flow, if that is what you have?
If it is one series loop now, the more heat emitters you add, the lower the water temperature as it reaches the end units, that could be an issue also, heat output will drop off.
Copper fin tube warms in seconds, cast rads can take 15- 30 minutes to get some noticeable heat.
Ideally they would be on separate zones.
Bleeding air from radiators below the boiler level takes some pretty good flow, if that is what you have?
hot_rod
1
Re: Thanks JohnNY (Gateway)
Why wouldnt work like that? ( he winces as he asks).I assume it's because in that position it will collect a lot of gunk and be blocked from "feeling" the high pressure it is supposed to protect against
Re: Problem with short-cycling, low water, and leaks
The returns could also be clogged causing slow return to the boiler.
i'll say it again. the cycle guard stops the burner to check the water level every x minutes, this could be what you see as it "shutting down on low water level"
i'll say it again. the cycle guard stops the burner to check the water level every x minutes, this could be what you see as it "shutting down on low water level"
mattmia2
1
Re: Thanks JohnNY (Gateway)
@SlamDunk I don't know how it impacts performance but the Watts install instructions state to install in the vertical position.
DJD775
2
Re: Boiler Steam Heat Setup
I would call that pretty horrible. It doesn't comply with the boiler manufacturer's requirements or good steamfitting practice. It should be black pipe rather than copper (except for the condensate returns). The steam main takeoffs should both be after the boiler riser and before the drop to the equalizer, not split to either side of the boiler riser as they are now, which will tend to throw water up into the left steam main. Also there is a reducer at the boiler steam outlet, which may not comply with the manufacturer's minimum piping specs depending on the rating of the boiler.delcrossv said:Your near boiler piping is incorrect, but not horrible.
How is the system working?
And the steam pipes should be insulated.
bburd
4
Re: Heating device ID
I think the booties are more protection from what is on the subfloor.
mattmia2
3