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Re: 2 zones, 2 pumps. 2 flow control valves?
There are two reasons for Flow Control Valves
1. On a tankless coil for DHW boiler you do not want gravity flow from the boiler that is maintaining a minimum temperature. the Flow Control/ FloChek. or IFC check valve in the pump (if it is on the supply) will keep that from happening;
2. To keep a zone circulator from drawing water backwards thru the piping of a zone that is not operational.
Look in this book called Pumping Away starting on page 9. The illustrations and text are really easy to follow.
1. On a tankless coil for DHW boiler you do not want gravity flow from the boiler that is maintaining a minimum temperature. the Flow Control/ FloChek. or IFC check valve in the pump (if it is on the supply) will keep that from happening;
2. To keep a zone circulator from drawing water backwards thru the piping of a zone that is not operational.
Look in this book called Pumping Away starting on page 9. The illustrations and text are really easy to follow.
Re: Viessmann Vitodens 100 WB1B-35 Burner Screws
You can buy a whole kit of stainless metric bolts of any head configuration on Amazon for not much$$
hot_rod
1
Re: Viessmann Vitodens 100 WB1B-35 Burner Screws
Why not just take one out and try the ones you have? That will tell you if you have the correct thread.
Re: Viessmann Vitodens 100 WB1B-35 Burner Screws
If it's the screws that attach the burner to the burner door here are some photos. they do come with a new burner tube assembly if you decide you need to make sure they are correct. Its kind of strange to need all 4 of these and not have one for reference though? mind sharing what happened?
GGross
1
Re: Viessmann Vitodens 100 WB1B-35 Burner Screws
Are these the screws that are inside the unit, that attach the burner tube to the burner plate? or the screws that hold the burner door/plate to the heat exchanger?
GGross
1
Re: Help Identifying Manufacturer of Non-Electric Zone Valve
I just got hold of some replacements for "Ammark" TRV's.
They also are made in Austria.
They also are made in Austria.
JUGHNE
1
Re: Help Identifying Manufacturer of Non-Electric Zone Valve
Looks like a TRV actuator from another manufacturer would probably fit on that valve.
mattmia2
1
Re: Equalizer and near-boiler piping
Yes, that's my video. There is debate about this, but I have shown the equalizer's only valid purpose is to let any water in the header drain away from the supply pipes back into the boiler. So it should be called the "header drip" not the "equalizer".
There is a theory that the equalizer somehow keeps water in the boiler while it is operating. I have disproven that with my video, although not everyone accepts that (although they don't provide any evidence to counter my claims).
There is another theory which I think was the effect of people scrambling to find an actual purpose for the equalizer after I showed it doesn't really do anything. They say if your wet return catastrophically fails, then the equalizer will prevent the water from siphoning out of the boiler. This is true enough, but it won't prevent your boiler from running out of water because the boiler is generating steam which ends up in the wet return anyway.
There is a theory that the equalizer somehow keeps water in the boiler while it is operating. I have disproven that with my video, although not everyone accepts that (although they don't provide any evidence to counter my claims).
There is another theory which I think was the effect of people scrambling to find an actual purpose for the equalizer after I showed it doesn't really do anything. They say if your wet return catastrophically fails, then the equalizer will prevent the water from siphoning out of the boiler. This is true enough, but it won't prevent your boiler from running out of water because the boiler is generating steam which ends up in the wet return anyway.
Re: Low water cut off
I can’t find it either, Ed. But I got that from the factory people many years ago, and it is so true. They would tell me that we have to blow down the unit first slowly to see if it works and then quickly. Just blowing it down quickly can hide the fact that the build-up on the bellows is there, and that can cause the unit to not cutoff on a slow leak.
