Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
Best Of
Re: Venting - What's code?
@ChrisJ You can get an informal opinion from the New Jersey Code Assistance Unit. I've contacted them before. Once you get through the preliminary bureaucratic steps the fellow I talked to was quite friendly and helpful.
CLamb
1
Re: Old Galvanized Pipes: Should new fittings be BRASS or STAINLESS?
Hi @GBC_illinois , Another question. How long are you thinking of keeping the existing system going, or when are you thinking of repiping? If the fixes you're considering are only for a year or two, it doesn't much matter what you put in. I looked up your water, and from what I could see, it looks pretty good, though the report I found didn't even give total dissolved solids (TDS), Langlier index or pH.
A different approach could be to run PEX to a manifold, if your runs aren't too long. With your water pressure, you could use 3/8" PEX, type A expansion, so you don't have flow restrictions at fittings.
Anyway, I'm just looking at rebuilding it in sections, versus making repairs and then starting over.
Yours, Larry
A different approach could be to run PEX to a manifold, if your runs aren't too long. With your water pressure, you could use 3/8" PEX, type A expansion, so you don't have flow restrictions at fittings.
Anyway, I'm just looking at rebuilding it in sections, versus making repairs and then starting over.
Yours, Larry
Re: Oil Burner Running Rough
@EdTheHeaterMan , said
. Never clean a Nozzle smaller than 1.25 GPH, and avoid cleaning nozzles below 2.00 GPH. It just ain't worth it
In a perfect world I would agree. But if it's 2:00 am and you don't have another nozzle or the right nozzle you do what you gotta do to get the heat back on.
I have cleaned many nozzles in a pinch and would always go back with a new nozzle especially on the small nozzles.
I had a school once with old Power Flame burners that used a Steinen 90 SS nozzle they are no longer made. Substituting different MFG nozzles NG could not get a good combustion test although with the Steinen nozzles it was fine.
Every year when I cleaned them I replaced the nozzle strainers, oil filters and pump strainers.
Then I moved into the office and they had another "tech" take over the oil stuff. I specifically told him about the nozzles........he didn't listen and threw them out.
2 months go by and were getting calls for smoke and soot. They suffered with it until they finally asked me if I could take a look. We tried different nozzles, different spray angles and pump pressures.
They just wouldn't run without the 90 deg Steinen. Ended up changing the burners. Too bad because they could have got some more years out of them. But those were like 6:00 gph nozzles.
My moto is never throw anything away until you know the replacement works.
. Never clean a Nozzle smaller than 1.25 GPH, and avoid cleaning nozzles below 2.00 GPH. It just ain't worth it
In a perfect world I would agree. But if it's 2:00 am and you don't have another nozzle or the right nozzle you do what you gotta do to get the heat back on.
I have cleaned many nozzles in a pinch and would always go back with a new nozzle especially on the small nozzles.
I had a school once with old Power Flame burners that used a Steinen 90 SS nozzle they are no longer made. Substituting different MFG nozzles NG could not get a good combustion test although with the Steinen nozzles it was fine.
Every year when I cleaned them I replaced the nozzle strainers, oil filters and pump strainers.
Then I moved into the office and they had another "tech" take over the oil stuff. I specifically told him about the nozzles........he didn't listen and threw them out.
2 months go by and were getting calls for smoke and soot. They suffered with it until they finally asked me if I could take a look. We tried different nozzles, different spray angles and pump pressures.
They just wouldn't run without the 90 deg Steinen. Ended up changing the burners. Too bad because they could have got some more years out of them. But those were like 6:00 gph nozzles.
My moto is never throw anything away until you know the replacement works.
Re: Oil Burner Running Rough
You really can't take apart and clean a nozzle below 1.25 ...My guess is, they cleaned the outside of the nozzle. But that can be problematic.
The solvent, soap or cleaning agent used can cause debris to find its way to making a scratch on the finely machined orifice surface. Touching the cindered filter strainer with any dirt in or on it can force debris thru the filter and end up lodged in the tangential slots or orifice of the nozzle. Never clean a Nozzle smaller than 1.25 GPH, and avoid cleaning nozzles below 2.00 GPH. It just ain't worth it
Once you get the proper nozzle, you will need to check the fuel pump pressure. after the fuel pump pressure is correct for the application you need to follow the instructions for adjusting the burner from this Instruction manual: https://carlincombustion.com/wp-content/uploads/MNEZ123-100923-r3b.pdf
Pay particular attention to the important information on page 15 of the manual. In Particular the item that I put a Red check mark on
If you are a DIY burner mechanic, you will need a Combustion analyser, smoke tester and draft gauge or manometer that can measure air pressure down to 0.01" water column (which is about 0.000 361 272 918 27 PSI). Really sensitive pressure/vacuum gauge.
I spent over $1500.00 for my last combustion analysis kit, over 10 years ago. But if you are going to do this you need the proper tools. Without those tools you should not touch the FIRE that is basically burning in the middle of your home!
Re: Oil Burner Running Rough
You really can't take apart and clean a nozzle below 1.25 ...
Big Ed_4
2
Re: Oil Burner Running Rough
Check pump pressure for 15 minutes continuous, draft, CO2, and smoke readings. One of them will point you in the right direction.
MaxMercy
2
Re: NYC Council bill being drafted for radiator inspection
I've been retained by counsel to advise on this tragic incident. I've met and spoken to the parents and I've toured the apartment and system extensively. Obviously my ability to comment here is very limited but I can tell you that this case will very likely make new law. At least that's my guess. If a qualified and knowledgeable committee or individual is the driving part of that process then I'm all for it, because this was an avoidable event.
JohnNY
5
Re: type of thermostat for simple oil furnace (heat)
Hi Jaime.
In process of 'Macgyvering' one out of stiff wire for the Chrontherm- we'll see
Hi EdTheHeaterMan - It seems that I have only a 2 wire (Red and White) connecting to a Carlin 60200-02 box that has TT TT terminal indicators. White is connected to one Terminal and Red is connected to the other 'T' terminal. Looks like no third wire as expected....
In process of 'Macgyvering' one out of stiff wire for the Chrontherm- we'll see
Hi EdTheHeaterMan - It seems that I have only a 2 wire (Red and White) connecting to a Carlin 60200-02 box that has TT TT terminal indicators. White is connected to one Terminal and Red is connected to the other 'T' terminal. Looks like no third wire as expected....
Re: Steam boiler leaving water on the floor from relief valave
Well... you may have two problems, not one. That brass thing which has the pipe attached to it which is leaking is a backflow preventer, and evidently it has a leakage problem -- and the drip is telling you that. It may be rebuildable. It may need to be replaced.
However, the water level in the boiler is low -- note where it is in the sight glass in relationship to the mark on the boiler. The "LOC" code in the feeder indicates that the feeder has tried to add water, but hasn't been able to keep up with the demand from the boiler. It may just be that one leak mentioned above, but there may be other leaks -- steam or condensate -- from the boiler or from the piping.
You need to follow up on that. Your boiler should not need more than a gallon of water per week -- in fact, it should need a lot less than that. So the water is going somewhere it shouldn't/
However, the water level in the boiler is low -- note where it is in the sight glass in relationship to the mark on the boiler. The "LOC" code in the feeder indicates that the feeder has tried to add water, but hasn't been able to keep up with the demand from the boiler. It may just be that one leak mentioned above, but there may be other leaks -- steam or condensate -- from the boiler or from the piping.
You need to follow up on that. Your boiler should not need more than a gallon of water per week -- in fact, it should need a lot less than that. So the water is going somewhere it shouldn't/
Re: Is this ridiculous? Pool heat pump for space heating/cooling
It may have something to do with the listings on the different type of ASHPs, as far as cost differences.
Years ago there was a radiant contractor around these parts that used pool boilers on radiant systems. They do have return protection built into them as a selling feature, but the sizes he used did not have the ASME "H" stamp and the inspectors caught up with him.
Usually pool heaters, copper tube type, have very high flow rate type HX. I would think pool ASHP heaters would also have high flow capacity.
So it may come down to code approval in your area.
A FPHX is another option, as is ongoing water treatment chemical use to address any O2 ingress.
Open hydronic systems seem to still be commonly installed in the UK. So tanker loads of Fernox and Adey chemicals are sold over there
Years ago there was a radiant contractor around these parts that used pool boilers on radiant systems. They do have return protection built into them as a selling feature, but the sizes he used did not have the ASME "H" stamp and the inspectors caught up with him.
Usually pool heaters, copper tube type, have very high flow rate type HX. I would think pool ASHP heaters would also have high flow capacity.
So it may come down to code approval in your area.
A FPHX is another option, as is ongoing water treatment chemical use to address any O2 ingress.
Open hydronic systems seem to still be commonly installed in the UK. So tanker loads of Fernox and Adey chemicals are sold over there
hot_rod
1