Best Of
Re: Grundfos Circ Pumps- Were the old ones better?
I've got several thousand 15-58s in service over the past 10ish years and have replaced exactly one, which was only due to the homeowner closing a valve instead of turning down the thermostat. The 15-58 is one of the better circs ever to hit the market, in my opinion. I replace at least a dozen Taco 007 annually and even a handful of the 15-42, but have never seen a DOA 15-58. I too would put money on an improper install/startup, or it's not a real 15-58. Those big box store knockoffs might say 15-58 on them, but they're not the same quality.
GroundUp
Re: Grundfos Circ Pumps- Were the old ones better?
Grundfos phased out their single speed residential pumps to be replaced by 3 speed pumps, the 3 speed pumps had been around for a long time, UPS15-58 is not by any means a new pump, it's almost obsolete as is, in some places they have to use the ECM pumps, could be here soon as well. I didn't know the pumps themselves were ever actually constructed in the US I thought they were always assembled here, Grundfos is based in Denmark. A DOA pump is either defective (covered under warranty) or is air locked (most likely scenario) for reference I have seen infinitely more "DOA" pumps come through that were simply air locked than actually DOA pumps. I would say in general 3 speed choices is an improvement in 90% of use cases, the internal check valves were added to stop nuisance calls from installers and DIY that don't understand when and where a check valve is needed. The check valve itself, being inside the pump is a less than ideal location, you aren't required to use the check valve and can take it out and pipe in your own.
GGross
Re: Identify this radiator heating element and baseboard convector enclosure
@ariccio, it seems like your recent discussions are varied enough to remain separate, but please try to streamline them moving forward if your questions are similar. Thanks!
Re: Lochinvar NKC150N - DHW High Temp Issue
That - what you have circled in blue - is the flow sensor.
Re: Lochinvar NKC150N - DHW High Temp Issue
The DHW is only heated when there is a call for DHW. Water temp when there is a thermostat call for space heating is irrelevant to the DHW temp. A sink will have less flow than the sink and shower together, so if you turn off the thermostats and open just a sink versus the sink and shower together, what happens? If somebody was messing with the space heating piping, it's probably airlocked which is what's causing the high limits and cold air temp. There isn't anything wrong with the boiler, if that's the case. The flow sensor is down on the exchanger at the bottom under that steel bracket, not the temp sensor you show in the first photo at the top- just FYI.
GroundUp
Re: 2 pipe with traps on rads. Where to set metering valve?
On a vapor system you still need the orifice plate or original vapor valve with a trv.
As to the original question, as @Jamie Hall said, you can run a conventional 2 pipe system like a vapor system with a vaporstat and metering valves. If you do it correctly the steam traps should never close and last more or less forever.
mattmia2
Re: From Tankless to Boiler
Do NOT go to 20% glycol. 25% and below is prime grounds for bacterial growth and it does deteriorate over time, so I'd stick with 30-35% if you're not going to use just water.
GroundUp
Re: Navien combi-boiler motorized threeway valve replacement
As per site rules, discussing pricing is not allowed.
Ironman
Re: Bleed air from gas boiler hydronic heat system
Above the circulator there is a shut off and drain valve , shut off the shutoff and drain the drain valve …
Big Ed_4
Re: Connecting Two Pipe Steam back to the boiler
OK. That first picture from the manual posted here shows the minimum near boiler piping needed. The thing which is a little confusing is that you have the outer end of the steam main right at the boiler, which is a bit odd but not a problem.
The silver vent is the main vent for the steam mains. What should happen is that eventually it should get hot and close. If steam takes a long time to get there, it may be failed shut In any event, I'd replace it with a Gorton #2.
The brass Hoffman vent is the vent for the dry returns from the radiator steam traps which are coming in there. It's probably fine.
Both of those pipes then go into vertical pipes, called drips. They meet together below the water line, which is fine, It looks to me as though there is another return dry return in addition to the one you have marked. That should be tied together with the one you did mark more or less where the Hoffman vent is.
The line which drops down vertically from that to the loop of pipe attached to the boiler is going to go away.
Then you need to build that bit of piping called the Hartford Loop in the diagram, just as it is shown. It looks as though someone tried to make a Hartford Loop — but the return pipe needs to go into the leg of the loop which does not attach directly to the boiler, rather than to the one which does.
Now you need to pay attention to the header piping. Arrange it exactly as the diagram shows. Two risers going up — one from each side of the boiler — at least two feet. Then going over horizontal another foot or so, and both connecting to the horizontal pipe as shown. That header should have a very slight slope down to the right. Then connect your steam main in beyond where the two risers join the header. Then go a bit farther and take a vertical pipe, called the equalizer, down to that Hartford Loop.
It really isn't hard if you follow that diagram as exactly as you can. Pay attention to the pipe sizes and any dimensions shown.
Better yet. Where are you located? We just might know someone nearby who could do all that for you in less than a day…
