Best Of
Re: Lochinvar NKC150N - DHW High Temp Issue
The DHW is only heated when there is a call for DHW. Water temp when there is a thermostat call for space heating is irrelevant to the DHW temp. A sink will have less flow than the sink and shower together, so if you turn off the thermostats and open just a sink versus the sink and shower together, what happens? If somebody was messing with the space heating piping, it's probably airlocked which is what's causing the high limits and cold air temp. There isn't anything wrong with the boiler, if that's the case. The flow sensor is down on the exchanger at the bottom under that steel bracket, not the temp sensor you show in the first photo at the top- just FYI.
Re: 2 pipe with traps on rads. Where to set metering valve?
On a vapor system you still need the orifice plate or original vapor valve with a trv.
As to the original question, as @Jamie Hall said, you can run a conventional 2 pipe system like a vapor system with a vaporstat and metering valves. If you do it correctly the steam traps should never close and last more or less forever.
Re: From Tankless to Boiler
Do NOT go to 20% glycol. 25% and below is prime grounds for bacterial growth and it does deteriorate over time, so I'd stick with 30-35% if you're not going to use just water.
Re: Navien combi-boiler motorized threeway valve replacement
As per site rules, discussing pricing is not allowed.
Ironman
Re: Bleed air from gas boiler hydronic heat system
Above the circulator there is a shut off and drain valve , shut off the shutoff and drain the drain valve …
Big Ed_4
Re: Connecting Two Pipe Steam back to the boiler
OK. That first picture from the manual posted here shows the minimum near boiler piping needed. The thing which is a little confusing is that you have the outer end of the steam main right at the boiler, which is a bit odd but not a problem.
The silver vent is the main vent for the steam mains. What should happen is that eventually it should get hot and close. If steam takes a long time to get there, it may be failed shut In any event, I'd replace it with a Gorton #2.
The brass Hoffman vent is the vent for the dry returns from the radiator steam traps which are coming in there. It's probably fine.
Both of those pipes then go into vertical pipes, called drips. They meet together below the water line, which is fine, It looks to me as though there is another return dry return in addition to the one you have marked. That should be tied together with the one you did mark more or less where the Hoffman vent is.
The line which drops down vertically from that to the loop of pipe attached to the boiler is going to go away.
Then you need to build that bit of piping called the Hartford Loop in the diagram, just as it is shown. It looks as though someone tried to make a Hartford Loop — but the return pipe needs to go into the leg of the loop which does not attach directly to the boiler, rather than to the one which does.
Now you need to pay attention to the header piping. Arrange it exactly as the diagram shows. Two risers going up — one from each side of the boiler — at least two feet. Then going over horizontal another foot or so, and both connecting to the horizontal pipe as shown. That header should have a very slight slope down to the right. Then connect your steam main in beyond where the two risers join the header. Then go a bit farther and take a vertical pipe, called the equalizer, down to that Hartford Loop.
It really isn't hard if you follow that diagram as exactly as you can. Pay attention to the pipe sizes and any dimensions shown.
Better yet. Where are you located? We just might know someone nearby who could do all that for you in less than a day…
Re: Connecting Two Pipe Steam back to the boiler
All that should be OK.. You don't need a trap the way yours is laid out. The steam in the steam main is separated from the dry return by the water at the bottom of the vertical pipes.
Re: What can be better?
How about separating the dry returns and dropping below the water line, each dry return needs a main vent . As others have stated you need a room by room heat lose . Personally anyone that suggested removing the standing rads to put in cast iron baseboard was not a person w much steam experience being most real steam guys would have to pass on removing standing rads to install cast iron baseboard being the result heating wise are never as promised nor close to a free standing rad . I would put recessed rads right up w cast iron baseboard . Not to be mean and there's really nothing wrong w a new yorker but that boiler is not a main stay of steam guys and usually installed by contractors who are pinching a penny and not the most savvy steam wise as seeing 2 dry return tied together above the water line is a clear indicator that they where clueless when it comes to minor issue that a newbie should spot within a few minutes of looking at a steam systems piping . Either that or the job was done cheap which would be a true being they used one of the cheapest boiler available ,real steam guy don't do things on the cheap being there really aint many do much of anything correct these days so you usually have to pay to get someone who has a clue .Don't feel bad like you were taken because it happen all the time good sales tech and zero interest financing always trump some dude who aint all fancy w dirty hands and a beat up vehicle and is not a choir boy maybe one of the bowery boys or a past juvenile delinquent at a mim . Never judge a book by its cover being the ugly cover is most likely the most truthful one especially since most real steam guys dont lie and tell it like it is which most real customer's don't want to hear even the details so they trust the nice clean guys and we all know how that goes its all worry free lol . That's a north jersey inside joke some will understand all bout worry free until ya gotta worry and then it will b e that guy w the crappy truck or van then ya can start worrying $
peace and good luck clammy
clammy
Re: From Tankless to Boiler
This is what I would install. I have A LOT of them in the field.
Simple, reliable. Its made in a 50k btu option.
Re: From Tankless to Boiler
I think the newest Alpha 15-58 would be about right.
The second number in Grundfos lingo is the head in decimeters.
58 decimeters is about 19’ head
hot_rod
