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Re: Honeywell Aquastat L8148E1166
The assumption that you don't own or are not experienced with a soldering gun does not equate to thinking your incompetent. But building submarines doesn't necessarily mean you can solder either. He's just trying to help. We're also just assuming it's in the board. Do you have the jumper to bypass the damper? It's probably in the manilla envelope with the manual.
HVACNUT
Re: Turning off heat while not home
Heat Pumps………………..Set them and forget them.
Steam ……………..a few degrees set back is fine but you won't notice a reduction in operating costs.
pecmsg
Re: Turning off heat while not home
To which I will add… it depends somewhat on what's in your home. Plants? Pets? Musical instruments (particularly pianos)? Fine furniture? Anything more than a few degrees setback and they will be uncomfortable (the living things) or irretrievably damaged (the non-living).
But you will save money on energy…
Re: Turning off heat while not home
Depends on the length of time of the temp set back and how much the temp set back is and the outdoor temp.
If you gone for a week absolutely set the temp back 10 degrees. I wouldn't go below 60 degrees. If you gone for 8 hours or less a setback is probably not worth it. When you set the temp back it is not just about air temp. The rugs, furnature, walls,floors and ceilings cool to the setback temperature and the temperature of all these items need to be raised back up to 70 degrees or whatever your normal temperature is.
With a short set back, it will take more fuel to raise the temp back up than what you will save,.
When you do a setback notice how long it takes for the system to recover.
That will give you a clue how to manage it.
Every system and building is different. There or no hard or fast rules.
Re: Turning off heat while not home
I might add this to the owner of a heat pump. When you sat back the temperature more than one degree and your back up, or auxiliary heat is electric resistance, then your recovery will be using the more expensive electric resistance heat. Whenever the setpoint temperature is more than 2° above, the room temperature the electric resistance auxiliary heat will be engaged. You need to think about that in your energy, saving calculation. If your coefficient of performance on your heat pump is a three or higher then you will be using three times more electricity every minute you use the electric resistance heat.
Heat pump = set it and forget it
Re: Turning off heat while not home
Similarly, if you set back the heat pump when you go to bed and then have it warm the house a few hours before you wake up it will be running at maximum capacity at the time of night when typically outdoor temperatures are lowest. The efficiency of a heat pump depends upon the outdoor temperature, so you're asking it to produce the most when it's least efficient.
Re: Should I be worried about what I am observing and hearing (radiant heat install in process)?
I hate to see shavings coming off the tubing, but to be fair, it happens. I literally take my knife and remove the sharp edges of the hole before pulling it in, but I am paranoid. Those scrapes (unless really severe) will not compromise the strength of the pipe but it is removing a bit of O2 barrier. After system has been in operation for a while it makes dark spots on the tubing evey place the O2 is getting in. The damage to the O2 barrier during install is one reason pex systems still get more O2 into the system than good old copper/steel systems.
As someone who has done floor heat for years, I still do staple up on a typical room on almost all jobs. The bath on the outside corner or the sunroom will get plates. On a typical job I am happy if my design temp is 140* and some jobs it is a good bit higher. You may say 110 would be much better and more efficient! Sure. But seriously, the $1000s that joist trak will cost to add to a whole house will not be recouped in savings for …. what… decades??? If doing plates on a floor with nails, use the extruded style because the tubing snaps in the underside of plate thus the tubing won't be pushed against the old nails.
As others have posted, you must know what all layers the floor consists of. If you take a shot in the dark, expect to miss sooner or later.
JMWHVAC
Re: Should I be worried about what I am observing and hearing (radiant heat install in process)?
If you use HTP , you must grind off any protruding nails thru the subfloor. I use the following grinder and wear eye protection when grinding. You can buy this grinder for peanuts at Harbor Freight stores. Cheaper than a pack of cigarettes in New York city.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-amp-4-12-in-slide-switch-angle-grinder-58092.html
Re: Should I be worried about what I am observing and hearing (radiant heat install in process)?
Here’s the plates that we prefer. 6 screws hold one plate which holds both pipes in a 16” OC joist bay. Single tube plates can be used in small narrow bays.
Ironman
Re: Should I be worried about what I am observing and hearing (radiant heat install in process)?
This is a pretty accurate on-line tool (need to register but free):
The hard part with existing houses is how leaky the place is, there is no easy way to get an accurate handle on this except for a blower door test. Older houses definitely tend to be on the leaky side.
Kaos