Best Of
Re: Blower not coming on
Run the unit with the blower door compartment off. Hold the door switch closed with your fingers and create a heating demand. When the blower motor starts to spin release the switch and check the rotation of the motor by looking at the fan blades as it slows down. The blower should be scooping the air. This will tell you whether it is rotating in reverse.
pedmec
Re: Relocate Well Water Tank & increase PSI
Don't go to all of that trouble and expense. You can add and adjust your pressure switch to a greater pressure. You can purchase a 60/40 pressure switch giving you a 60psi top end pressure with a 40psi cut in/pump on pressure.
You can even do this with what you currently have. Adjusting the pressure switch to say, a fifty seventy psi adjustment can do all of what you are asking including the sprinkler system.
However. The age of your pump, tank and well can be a factor as they might not be able to take these adjustments.
If things are in good shape and are not too old and your well has a good recovery rate then I would simply adjust the pressure switch. And once that is done charge your tank to two (2) psi below the cut in setting with no water in it.
A few questions:
What is the model and type of tank?
What type of pump? Submersible? Jet pump?
What type of well? Shallow dug well? Drilled deep well? How deep is it and what is the static water level? Have you ever run out of water?
Does the pump maintain a pressure within the current psi setting? Or does it cycle between the settings.
Intplm.
Re: Power vent for a natural gas boiler
Your better off going with the OEM model. You got at least 20 years out of it. That's not bad.
pedmec
Re: Power vent for a natural gas boiler
Alot easier to get the model # of the fasco thats on there now and just swap like for like. That stainless vent is very expensive you want to line up perfectly otherwise you won't save anything on a different model
Re: Taco 218 universal flochek
hi Ed,
Maybe it’s hard to see from the previous picture, but it looks to be connected to only one flocheck. Perhaps this picture is better.
rob51
Re: Relocating a 1-Pipe Steam Radiator: Cast Iron vs. Brass Fittings?
I have been lucky on removing spuds, I cut off the union nut, put a spud wrench in the spud. Lay the radiator on its side and using a 3 foot pipe wrench on the spud. It will collapse the spud down to the wrench and loosen it.
Neild5
Re: Combines intake and exhaust on gas w/heater?
@guzzinerd Said: Went over to a neighbor's who asked me to look at her water heater that isn't working. The code it's throwing is failed ignition so I told her she needs to call a professional
Good Call! If you have no Idea on what to do, then put your hands in your pockets and back away from the problem until you can find out more about it
@guzzinerd Said: While looking it over I noticed that the intake is tied into the exhaust pipe near the inside wall.. shouldn't they be separate?
What you are looking at is a proper concentric design venting system. Here is the detail on that design.
THE EXHAUST GASSES FROM THE HEATER WILL EXIT IN THE CENTER (Orange) VENT PIPE THAT GOES FULL SIZE 2" THRU THE MIDDLE OF THE ASSEMBLY. THE AIR INTAKE COMES IN THRU THE LARGER OUTER PIPE (Blue) THAT IS AROUND THE EXHAUST PIPE. THIS IS CALLED A CONCENTRIC VENT. YOU CAN MAKE ONE LARGER HOLE IN THE SIDE OF THE BUILDING AND HAVE BOTH INTAKE AND EXHAUST USE THE SAME OPENING. SINCE THE INLET AIR COMES FROM NEAR THE BUILDING AND THE EXHAUST IS PUSHED STRAIT AWAY FROM THE BUILDING, THERE IS LESS CHANCE FOR THE EXHAUST TO FIND ITS WAY BACK TO THE AIR INTAKE.
@guzzinerd Said: She does have hydronic heated floors using a separate heater in the basement.
That is the wrong heater for a closed system. But that does not means someone mIght not try to make it work. I have used a water heater to do space heating and learned the hard way that Cheap isn't always the lowest cost way to do things. Ask Me how I Know?
@guzzinerd commented on @kcopp's statement: "Often that is called a "bazooka" termination. The piping most prob does not combine there… just the penetration." Only one pipe comes out of the exterior. Are you saying it should be divided from that point to the outside?
See my reply above about the Concentric. And I never heard it called a Bazooka.
@guzzinerd Said: Below the other water heater, this is what's running the hydraunic floor heat. The other water heater that's not firing right now is for the shower and sinks, residential.
There are parts on the potable water system that have no reason to be there. I can see that the owner of this location is not afraid of using unqualified and incompetent people to save $$. Those inexperienced people often charge less because they really don't know what they are doing. I would not offer any guidance @guzzinerd . Your inexperience may come back to haunt you if you get involved.
Re: Steam Boiler swap savings
What @Waher said above. Much the best way to save. However, you should also check the pressure settings at which the boiler is operating. in most "normal" two pipe and all one pipe systems, the boiler pressure control should be set to cutout at between 1.5 and 2.0 psig, and cut back in at 1 psig lower. Any pressure higher than that is not helping your heating, but is burning fuel to no purpose.
Also check your main venting — if that is lacking, it may take longer than needed for steam to reach the radiators and do something useful.
Re: Electric Boiler Set to Heat only when Thermostat Calls
Unless you have a lot of BB or a high temperature staple up? I'm not sure you could run a single temperature system when fin tube and radiant mix.
Get them with 10- 12° of one another and it could work.
hot_rod