Best Of
Re: Professional opinions please
As per usual, that's an excellent example. Finish that drawing by adding an autofeed and BFP combo to the cold water makeup line, and you are 100%. Luv your drawings. 👉️ 👍️👍️ 👈️

Re: Order of components
No reason not to. But a few assumptions here. First, the F&T is there because you have a parallel flow main and you want the condensate to get into the dry return. Second, this is a "standard" pressure (1.5 psig cutout) system rather than a vapour (0.5 psig cutout. Third, there is no way to reach a wet return with the condensate. Fourth, you have no way to use a drip loop (water seal) instead — too much pressure or not enough depth. Fifth, you have additional main venting on that main (an F&T is a lousy main vent).
Re: Anyone know about disassembly of these full-port Webstone (Nibco) ball valves?
That would surely be doing it the hard way. Stuff. Firmly. Your paper towel in there and you should be fine. Pull it out in a wad, though, not sort of by one corner…
Re: Anyone know about disassembly of these full-port Webstone (Nibco) ball valves?
ball valves are assembled with Loctite, or a similar “glue” they are not so easy to disassemble without damaging them.
Higher end valves are being laser welded more often now

Re: Replacing Electrodes on Beckett AFG Oil Burner
@EBEBRATT-Ed I tell customers all the time when their fuel delivery company doesn't provide service and they call us for service that its "the high cost of low priced fuel"
Re: Replacing Electrodes on Beckett AFG Oil Burner
The filter is fine. There is little to no pressure on it
Re: Replacing Electrodes on Beckett AFG Oil Burner
The maximum pressure allowable on a fuel line where that filter is located is less than 3 PSI. Anything higher and you risk the possibility of the fuel pump's shaft seal leaking. Chances are, your fuel line may operate in a vacuum at times. In other words a filter rated at 40 PSI is way higher than necessary, an therefore safe to use
Re: Replacing Electrodes on Beckett AFG Oil Burner
If it is a Suntec pump it has a strainer. A Webster pump doesn't.
You can buy a replacement strainer it should come with the gasket or clean the existing strainer. You shut the oil off at the burner and unbolt the pump cover and pull it off gently with the oil line attached. Probably need to tap it for it to break free. Don't pry it off you could damage the pump
Re: Help with heat load pro
A quick check for load on existing structure is last years winter fuel use. Heat load is approximately Therms*42.
If this number is near your man J, the calculations are correct.
60BTU/sqft is the heat loss for a pole barn with no insulation. Houses have come a long way, even 20BTU/sqft is high for newer construction.
