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Re: Help Sizing A Multi-Zone Mini Split System - Minimum Capacity?
You'd have to do a spreadsheet for each heat pump. One of the keys is calculating the COP and output at each temperature, that's going to be specific to each heat pump.
Re: Help with Goodman GSXC16 Error code 04
I've dealt with this a lot. In my experience the causes are either a dirty condenser coil or the system needs a good 5-2-1 hard start kit installed. Goodman and Amana units really need to have the hail guards removed to be able to clean the coil effectively. And if the system has TXV I would definitely check the superheat. 3/4 of them need some adjustment to set the superheat correctly.
Re: I'm getting solar panels. I'll let you know how it goes in this discussion thread.
@ethicalpaul Hope you will post a few things as to how the system benefits you in the future.
You have a good-looking house. Even the deer are admiring it.
Intplm.
Re: Leaking valve on water tank
Or, you can tighten the packing nut. It's located just below the valve handle and surrounds the valve stem. The nut has the flats on it for wrench tightening.
If that doesn't work, repacking the valve as mentioned above would be next. And if that doesnt work, a good quality ball valve should be the replacement.
Intplm.
Re: Help with Goodman GSXC16 Error code 04
Check easy things first. Electrical connections, capacitors, start components.
If those are all good, let the system cool off completely. Reset by cycling power. Measure the suction temp and discharge temp at the compressor, as well as the amp draw/voltage.
If the superheat across the compressor is high and amp draw low, you aren't moving enough refrigerant to cool the compressor and it will trip the common internal overload after a longer run time. That can come from low refrigerant, high head pressure ( dirty condenser, blockage or malfunctioning fan).
If the compressor superheat is low and the amp draw is high, that would mean it's pumping to much gas and overloading the motor to the point of tripping the internal overload. This scenario would be most common in a horizontal right airhandler application where the txv bulb is in the return Airstream and not properly insulated or loose from the pipe.
And lastly, it could be a bad compressor.
Re: Replacing Hot Water Storage Tank with Hot Water Heater - System 2000
Site rules says no pricing allowed, so please remove. Is the tank leaking? What do you mean by "failed"? Also, what do you mean by a hot water conversion kit? Is it something EK offers when using a standard electric water heater?
HVACNUT
Re: Help Sizing A Multi-Zone Mini Split System - Minimum Capacity?
@JustinS : "Awesome… you've given me a lot to think about here, in particular the idea that I should be focus on the heat capacity at the low end rather than the nameplate capacity."
If you take away only one thing, that would be it.
"Although, I think that to some extent I do want to be mindful of the capacity at 47F? Avoiding short cycles and such, right?"
In the spreadsheet I put in a column for short-cycling loss, it's just a guess but if you don't put in something the numbers lead you toward dramatic oversizing. There's a tradeoff, as you go smaller you start coming up short on the cold end and have to supplement with resistance heat, as you go bigger the oversizing losses start to add up.
As a practical matter units come in fixed sizes, usually in half ton increments. So it boils down to picking between two sizes.
Re: Help with Goodman GSXC16 Error code 04
https://hvacdirect.com/media/hvac/pdf/GSXC16-Install.pdf
109A_5
Re: Any new feelings about Stay Brite 8 soldering vs brazing?
I recently had to move a lineset in our shop and I bought some Staybrite 8 as well as the Stayclean flux, both paste and liquid. After doing a few tests I decided to braze everything using Staysilv 15. The reason was I didn't feel like cleaning every joint and dealing with flux. So, I brazed all of the joints because it was quicker and easier. Silphos isn't anywhere near as picky with your pipe and fittings being spotless as soft soldering.
My current opinion on it is the connection strength etc isn't an issue but I've never brazed / soldered anything near a compressor, so I can't comment on that. It's having to clean everything (just like soft soldering plumbing) without getting abrasives in your tubing, and then try to be extremely clean with flux. So, if it's something you can braze without concerns, and you've already got your nitrogen bottle out of the truck and connected I'd stick with silphos. If it's in a tight area, or something that you can't really get too hot, I'd take the time and use Staybrite.
With Staybrite you don't need to purge with nitrogen, which can make some jobs a lot easier.
I think both have their uses and you just need to decide which is the easier / better solution for each job. Like I said, I haven't put a new compressor in, and I have heard guys say you really need to braze those connections, so for now I don't have an opinion on that.
ChrisJ
Re: J-channel mounting block suitable for Prier C-134 series
Yes, it is a good practice to use what you have posted above. Some advice. Try to shim it out of that box a bit. At times, it can be very difficult to screw a hose connection on due to the type of hose or the depth of the sillcock in the recess.
Intplm.