Best Of
Re: Main vent questions - newbie
Yes it could cause a water trap there, preventing air from exiting the vents. Have you ever felt air leaving these vents?
I wouldn't worry about changing them out for a #2 until you see how well they vent. You can time how long it takes the steam to fill the main.
There is a lot of advice in this forum that pushes you toward massive main venting that in my opinion is not warranted.
Re: Main vent questions - newbie
Well… I wouldn't worry about the Gorton #2s. There have been some QC issues, but in general they are a good reliable vent.
Now… that sloping pipe. As it is, it could be a problem. However, I think that if you take the reducer off under the big pipe, and put a 45 on there angled up with say a three inch nipple, then a 90 towards the room (to clear that other black sloping down in back) and your Gortons on there it should work. Adequate headroom. There will still be a bit of a puddle there — can't help that — but it may work just fine.
Re: Main vent questions - newbie
You could disconnect the pipe at the Red arrow add two 90 elbows and a few nipples to pitch the vent pipe the other way. However I'd wait and see if it is actually needed. If the Steam / water vapor seems to affect your wood in the area of the main vent you could use aluminum flashing (or the like) as a barrier.
Personally I like the Barnes & Jones Big Mouth Main Air Vent. The air exhaust port is not at the top and it is threaded, so more versatile. Additionally this vent can be dissembled for service, etc.
109A_5
Re: Need help choosing between Comforto (Granby) and ThermoPride oil furnace
I sell quite a few Thermo Pride furnaces. They are hard to beat, and were recently acquired by Beckett, another industry leader in the oil market. I would personally inquire about the heat exchanger warranty, then have a startup analysis performed to make sure the new heat exchanger was not subject to excessive temperatures. Most of the oil highboys can be set up to be anywhere from 70,000 to 125,000 Btu input based on nozzle selection. If you are short on return air, the tech should just configure the furnace with a smaller nozzle, and adjust the fuel/air accordingly. Just my .02
Re: You Kept Me From Blowing Myself Up Once, Let's Do It Again!
Just use a piece of 3/8" or 1/2" black or galvanized pipe with an npt adapter to the bottle and in to the regulator, maybe clamp some hanger iron or something to the guard on the bottle to give it a little extra support, then use a 3/4" quick connect hose from the regulator to the tee for the appliances.
mattmia2
Re: You Kept Me From Blowing Myself Up Once, Let's Do It Again!
@gotgas said "Here is the problem. We are constantly moving this around which means we have to disconnect the POL pigtail from the tank."
Are the two 100 lbs cylinders being moved on a regular basis? Like on a food truck for example? Or are you constantly setting up then breaking down, like a caterer might do at different locations that may not have cooking facilities available.
I believe that the REGO 970AW is the part you need. This is a hard pipe POL to 1/4" MNPT and has an easy to use hand wheel for tightening the regulator to the tank. If there is not enough room to mount the regulator directly to the tank you can extend the fitting with a ¼” x 6” pipe nipple and a ¼” coupling. You don't want to get too far from the tank because the stress of the regulator hanging on the ¼” brass fitting may cause it to break off.
Using the copper POL to the gas regulator will relieve stress of the regulator's weight plus the connected flexible tubes that supply the appliances may be a better choice. The fact that you need to move the tanks from time to time may be a good idea to just have a spare POL x regulator size fitting connector on hand.
You may also be better off with the rigid fitting connected directly to the regulator by using the 970AW that has the easy off easy on hand wheel for connecting and disconnecting.
Here is the info sheet for all those fittings:
Your LP Gas dealer should be able to get you the fittings you need.
Re: You Kept Me From Blowing Myself Up Once, Let's Do It Again!
Is this what you are asking? Leave the POL fitting in the tank, quick coupler for the reg into the POL. Or a rubber LP hose from the POL quick coupler to1st reg.
I would not hang the reg off that soft copper tube, the reg needs some support.
This is a soft POL, with the O-ring missing. The O rings do go bad after time, but they seal better than the "hard" brass to brass POL. A hand wheel works on the "soft" o-ring POL, not the hard brass ones, those generally need a wrench.
These are readily available parts, get the couplers that are LP listed, these are standard air compressor fittings.
hot_rod
Re: Replacing large steel pipes going to/from hot water boiler to cast iron radiators with PEX
You need to make sure that you use O2 barrier pex, not regular plumbing pex.
The tubing that we used in the picture is actually Pex-Al-Pex which has a rigidity similar to soft copper, so it requires less support and remains where it’s bent, unlike regular pex. The aluminum wall provides the O2 barrier.
I have tools for just about every piping method, so that gives me more options than most. Viega makes MegaPress fittings for hydronic use that can be pressed onto iron pipe so it doesn’t have to be threaded. They’re the green labeled ones. If you have a stubborn fitting that won’t come loose, you can simply cut it off and press the necessary fitting on. Most larger supply houses that carry the MegaPress fittings will usually rent the press tool and tongs.
Ironman
Re: filter size
Replacement cartridges are General CR88 or Unifilter RF-1. I prefer the latter because it's easier to see what kind of dirt has accumulated on the cartridge.