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Re: Circulator noise when hot?
You are 2/3 of the way there.
Is there another valve on this return line, or multiple valves?
You need to completely isolate that section or pipe, to cut into the 1/2" copper line
or else drain the system down to that level.
If you know a plumber with a freeze cuff, you could freeze the 1/2" line between the two press couplings to cut in the new tee just below the 1/2" valve.
A thrill-seeking plumber may just drop the pressure to zero, cut a press ball valve into the copper line just above the ell where it ties into the black steel tee :)
There are some 1/2" tap a line valves, but quite $$ Although sometimes on ebay they go pretty cheap.\
If you take on this project, remove the tank and plug that yellow tank isolation valve.
hot_rod
Re: Hyper heat not reaching heat set temp if below 35
It’s probably not charged correctly. There are strict guidelines in the installation manual for how much additional charge is required depending on the indoor unit(s), branch box(es) line set lengths, etc. Most installers have trouble with them, but the distributor can also calculate them with Mitsubishi’s Diamond software if given the correct info.
The only way to properly charge the system is to weigh the correct amount in; it can’t simply be “topped off” by guessing or taking superheat and sub cooling readings.
If the contractor has already added refrigerant, but didn’t do it using the proper calculations, then it all has to be removed and the proper amount weighed in based upon the proper calculations.
Ironman
Re: Circulator noise when hot?
here is super simple and low cost
Press in the FIP tee
Screw the iso ball valve into that tee
Screw a 1/2 x 4 black nipple and black ell into the iso valve
Screw tank into ell
Threaded rod or any suitable hanger rod around the black nipple
No need to mess with the fill valve location
hot_rod
Re: Bosch Greenstar 151 Combi
Eyes on the job will be a good idea. Need to look at the entire venting route to determine a better option.
hot_rod
Re: Bosch Greenstar 151 Combi
@ant930 reach out to Scully Plumbing & Heating there out in Long Island not that far from you.
EzzyT
Re: Circulator noise when hot?
Attach a pic of the boiler and piping, it may be fairly easy to move the exp tank to the circ inlet. That may solve a few issues for you.
hot_rod
Re: 1992 Weil McLain CGM-4 Series 9 (Spark Ignition)
@tonynap There is a screw that holds the control into the aquastat well. It is a slotted screw on the top of the control. I think it is only slightly visible in the picture.
Losen the screw and you may have to pull up on the clamp retainer and pull the control out of the sensing well.
Don't unscrew the well with water in the boiler.
Go to the link that @neilc posted above to see the control.
Re: Circulator noise when hot?
I don't think you can get cavitation at that low temp. Something else is happening. I would pull the pump and check it.
Also, do you have a place you can get a gauge on the suction side of the pump?
Re: Circulator noise when hot?
If you can get the expansion tank removed without draining the system and you can isolate the place where you install the expansion tank without draining the system then there is no need to drain the system. I only caution you to remove the handle to the valve between the system and the expansion tank after you are finished with the work and open that valve. That way someone won't be tempted to do you a favor and close that valve for some reason. Just hang the handle on a wire near the valve for future service. That was one of my signals to homeowners that the valve was not for their use. There is no reason to close this valve. (or open this valve if left closed)
Re: Estimating annual heating energy use
Siggy put these graphs together for Idronics, using Boston as the example
It shows how may hours you would typically be at or below design conditions
Which could give you an idea of how often a cast boiler could short cycle or run cold returns
hot_rod