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Re: Boiler Heat Gauge Inquiry
I would check the aquastat. See what the high limit is set for, typically it's set for 180⁰. If the boiler is overheating past the high limit setting I would remove the aquastat and make sure the temperature sensor is fully inserted in the immersion well. If the sensor is fully inserted and the problem persists I would replace the aquastat. It's not a common thing but I have had some older aquastats go bad and cause overheating. I would install a modern digital aquastat like the Hydrolevel 3250 or Resideo L7224U.
Re: 2 pipe with traps on rads. Where to set metering valve?
The work fine on a conventional two pipe system. Just adjust the metering section to suit the system working pressure, that's all.
Re: 2 pipe with traps on rads. Where to set metering valve?
That's one of those questions… how big is a box? The metering orifice should generally be set so that the radiator is about 80 to 90 percent hot at the end of a long run. Then you can control the heat in the space by reducing the throttling valve (the accessible handle) to what you want.
Be aware that the above is pressure sensitive, and any adjustments should be made when the system is operating at its normal pressure — usually no more than a few ounces. Not that the valves can't be used on higher pressure systems — they can — but the orifice will be set smaller.
Re: 2-pipe Radiator Experiments, parts 1, 2, and now 3 with insane reverse pitch!!
Venting and steam velocity may have an influence.
Um, wrong link ? Maybe this one.
109A_5
Re: new crown gas fired steam boilers - water needed every week
1 —- no. @EdTheHeaterMan wasn't referring to a steam vent, but to the exhaust from the boiler burner up the chimney.
Re: new crown gas fired steam boilers - water needed every week
Let me re-word this "
- If the boiler has a leak above the water line, then steam could be leaving out the vent along with the flue gas. You may never see water on the floor if that is the case.
- If the boiler has a leak above the water line, then steam could be leaving out between the cast iron sections. That steam will then go up the chimney vent along with the byproducts of the combustion process. You may never see water on the floor if that is the case. (steam will go up the chimney as steam not water)
Re: new crown gas fired steam boilers - water needed every week
It's almost certainly leaking vents (radiator and/or main) and/or radiator valves. There is a much less likely chance that some radiator runout or section of main is leaking, but it's possible. It could be a wet return, especially if any of them are buried where you won't see the water.
Even a non-obvious leak could let out a gallon or so per day, and for those boilers, a gallon of condensate might be 1/2" to 1" of height on the gauge glass.
There's almost a zero chance that either boiler itself is leaking IMO
Edit: sorry everyone when I posted it wasn't showing me those earlier responses so I may have repeated what others said, I have to go back and look!
Edit 2: Yeah i was confused by that comment about the chimneys being plugged up and unused too!
Re: Curious about combustion analysis?
I rarely do combustion analysis on OLD atmospheric natural gas burners. There is so little to adjust on them. Maybe there are some adjustable air gate openings to the individual burners. Maybe not. And even if you make an adjustment on those primary air openings, the secondary air that enters the combustion chamber is so overwhelming that those adjustments do very little. Those burners are 68% efficient at best.
If you are looking at the flame and it is mostly blue, then it is burning correctly. If it is mostly yellow and has lazy smokey tips, then you need to find out what is wrong. I had one of those old American Standard boilers with the cast iron burners in my basement that I owned for over 18 years. I removed the burners and shook out all the rust only once. I didn't see any change in performance or combustion efficiency. I was young and stupid and playing with my Bacharach wet combustion kit on a gas heater, because I only worked on oil burners at the time. 68% combustion efficiency before and after. No change before and after.
Unless you get some wildlife to block the chimney those old things are pretty bullet proof.
Re: Asking for advice for combi boiler replacement and hydronic system upgrades
temperature rising quickly is usually caused by air locked boiler, air locked pump, or the boiler loop pump just isn’t spinning for some reason.
No power, locked rotor.
On some fire tube boilers I would hold the top relief valve open to blow out air that traps high.
I like purge and iso valves right in the loop where the tees are. This guarantees that you have purged the complete circuit. Assuming zone valves or actuators are all open.
hot_rod