Best Of
Re: F&T Trap sizing on steam main
Probably not, it's passing condensate.
You'll want to get rid of the arch in your flex hose
Re: Anode rod replacement: Electric vs Standard
no, it was in a dedicated port accessed from above the top area that houses the compressor
Re: Taping the seams of oil boiler exhaust pipe vent pipe?
Yes.
Except when something else goes wrong and it doesn't.
Also high CO means you're sending your money up the chimney.
ChrisJ
Re: Steam ingress in return pipe--puzzling
@ethicalpaul you almost got it. The steam does change speed as Dan describes based on system pressure. It's travel speed is effected by the density of the gas. Also higher pressure allows the condensate to be above 212⁰F so when it enters the low pressure of the return it flashes to steam. This can cause water hammer in the return piping.
Re: Anode rod replacement: Electric vs Standard
Hi, My perspective on sediment is that it's affected by how hard the water is, how much water is used, and how much it's heated. It isn't much affected by sacrificial vs impressed current anode type, though aluminum rods do produce a lot of goo. Rheem uses a magnesium anode, but puts a resistor in the head of the rod to slow it down. This can work too well in clean, relatively unconductive water. 🤔
Yours, Larry
Re: Seeking Guidance on Steam Boiler Issues (1928 Home with 1.95 Million BTU Weil-McLain)
@shames, we've merged your discussions into one here to minimize confusion. Thanks.
Re: Seeking Guidance on Steam Boiler Issues (1928 Home with 1.95 Million BTU Weil-McLain)
You might be able to extend the life of the boiler and give yourself some thinking time by adding sodium silicate to the water. Or any "Boiler Weld" product. Usually frowned Upon but often a good solution. It's not that uncommon for those to develop leaks in the end sections and those are the easiest to replace. That's what I would suggest. The welded headers are the cause of these types of leaks I think.
Grallert
Re: Chimney condemned; wood stove conversion question
I can see the point about the bad mortar joint. What isn't obvious is that if there is significant creosote accumulation in the rest of the chimney, if it ignites at the bad joint the fire will propagate down the chimney as well as up. One would like to think not, but… it will. And a chimney fire is no joke at all.
The problem with the screen is two fold, and paradoxical. First, while it would stop most embers, in the event of a really hot fire in the stove, for whatever reason (who put that piece of pine in there????), the gas passing through may be hot enough to ignite creosote further up the chimney. Second, paradoxically, the screen itself may accumulate enough creosote if it is not really heated up regularly and, itself, form a nice ignition source when a hot ember catches on it — and an ignition source with a nice built-in flame holder to stabilise the flame while it gets organized.
I really think, though, that you should contact a few stove or insert companies and enquire about the cost of a full length stainless steel liner connected directly to the stove or insert. It may be possible — that chimney looked pretty straight — and may not be prohibitively expensive. It's quite a common repair for older chimneys and, if the chimney itself is reasonably structurally sound, doesn't require demolition of the old chimney.
Re: Chimney condemned; wood stove conversion question
No, no, and No! The chimney must be suitable for the class of service. Even a brand new masonry chimney built perfectly to code (never seen one) would need the ss liner in this case just for sizing. As soon as you realize you have combustibles touching the chimney, it would need an insulated ss liner.
Your flue tiles are worn, have staggered joints, missing mortar, spalling and flaking. etc.
Once creosote gets out of the flue into the interstitial space between the tile and the outer wythe wall you cannot remove it. You must tear the chimney down and rebuild.
Even regular chimney caps with a 3/4" diamond mesh clog up from wood burning and you want to put a fine screen right over stovepipe? BTW, you cannot stuff a little stovepipe up the chimney and hope it finds its way out.
FYI, a proper ss insulated liner must be installed to meet its 2,100F rating at zero clearance btw the outer chimney and combustibles.
Refer to NFPA 211 for full details. You can read it online for free at NFPA.org
