Best Of
Re: Traveling Boiler Techs
I never did that work but I used it one time.
I remember my first commercial boiler job with a combination Gas/Oil burner. Might have been a PowerFlame. I did the commissioning myself and could not get it to run correctly on low oil. So it never got to high oil. I could coax it to high oil flame and get that set up properly but the low oil would not light. I could get the low oil to light but the High oil was smokey. Spent 2 days trying to get it right. Finally I called Weil McLain tech support and they recommended that I purchase their start up service that came with one year of labor warranty.
I bit the bullet and paid the fee. When the tech from WM came, he was actually another contractor like me and I told him my problem. He did exactly what I already did and found the same problem as I did. But he had experience that I did not have, and he went off book. He replaced the nozzles with different specifications and got the firing rate on low and on high to be compatible with each other. That nozzle change I was not prepared to do. Live and learn. The book isn't always right. Once I had that knowledge I never needed to purchase the start up service after that.
Re: Fixing the gurgling at the end of my Steam Mains
Sound like you have a plan.
Having a male copper into a female black pipe seems to hold up well, like your is, I'm not actually sure what code is in this situation.
Once you get the main extended and draining properly that should further reduce any spitting from the vents, I would just see how it goes. The 4 vents have a lot of 90 degree bends to get to them, so it may be fine.
109A_5
Re: Auto Feed Running when boiler is filled
They both work. They both need maintenance. I like the float type, as it's simple and easily repaired — and very easy to routinely check (the "test" button on the probes checks the circuitry — but not the actual function of the probe) when you blow the float chamber down… but that's me.
Re: Adding water to boiler system
Just exactly that simple. Doesn't even have to really be cold when you do it, either. Keep an eye on the pressure gauge, though — it may increase rather quickly. And then make sure the valves are closed.
Re: Restore crossover?
There will be no real benefit to replacing the vent with a crossover — although a bigger vent there would not come amiss. What may help — possibly a lot — is putting a vent at the end of the riser/runout to those cooler radiators, somewhere just before it connects to the radiator inlets. At least a Gorton #1.
Re: Help choosing a new boiler (Part 3 - the Results! and more questions :)
The mixing valve may be set to 120°F at the factory, or it may be a little off. I have had that problems with other customers that like to take a shower with 125°F water. the standard Mixing valve has a stop at 120°F and if your valve is already set there and the temperature sensing spring is out of calibration, then you will never get the hot water that you want. You may need to get a different valve that has a different temperature range like this one
EDIT: Have the valve you already have checked for the proper adjustment and to see if there is any debris lodged in the valve the is preventing the valve from closing the cold water off enough to get you the 120°F water you want.
New systems often have junk inside the pipes that foul thing up and need to be cleaned out.
Re: Help choosing a new boiler (Part 3 - the Results! and more questions :)
They set heating to 131? I think it needs to be higher.
if you want to take the time to read through the programming section of the manual it will tell you how to change the setting.
Usually the installer will write the settings in the manual as to how they programmed it
turn the red knob to hotter. It should supply 120f . If the tank is at 140? But it looks like they set your dhw to 133, it may need to be hotter for that mixing valve to regulate to 120
hot_rod
Re: Help choosing a new boiler (Part 3 - the Results! and more questions :)
ODR is something that is beneficial to you. It can save about 15% on fuel and actually make the house more comfortable. All they have to do is install the outdoor sensor and properly adjust the reset curve.
When using it, you don’t want to be setting the thermostat up and down because the response time will be much longer and it will probably use more fuel. It’s old technology vs. new. You now have a boiler which modulates to match the load when properly set up. The old one was just 100% on or 100% off.
As mentioned, the mixing valve on the domestic needs to be adjusted to get hotter water.
Ironman
Re: flow issues, again
Your thoughts on starting with new water are spot on. Flush and purge the entire system and make sure you empty and clean the dirt mag.
You have valves that are off or throttled. Why? Open them and let it flow.
Your well water is of some concern. I am wondering if over time it has caused the debris that you show in the picture. And because it is a well, do you have enough water pressure to purge and clean the system? Find out what your water chemistry is and go from there.
Intplm.
Re: flow issues, again
if you suspect clogged components coated out emitters, etc.
Add a cleaner to what you have. Then you. Need a power flush, enough gpm to get a least 5 fps velocity in every pipe nd component. A good brand hydronic cleaner, not dishwasher soap.
Generally a 1/2 pump cart capable of 13 gpm, or so for residential systems.
By using a cart, you will see what, and how much flushes out. Also just keep the cleaner running through the pump cart at those high velocities. With a garden hose you are not running the cleaner across all the surfaces, over and over.
You want at least 3/4” hoses to connect into the system to get those flow rates.
For a DIYer a garbage pail and a 1/2 hp transfer pump, a spa pump, used pool pump, something that pushes good flowrates.
hot_rod