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Re: Delta-P situation specific
Delta P function is ideal for zoned systems either TRVs or zone valved systems. The ECM pumps are nice for replacing those 15-58 zone pumps at some point also, about 50% electrical consumption reduction withECM powered circulators.
hot_rod
0
In Wall Convector Vent Removal
My home was built in 1938 and has a number of convector radiators built in to the wall with an opening at the floor for intake air and a vent panel just under the window sill for the heated air to escape. A couple of these units have vents that need replacement but I cannot get enough access to get a wrench on them. The vents have an 8 point pattern for a socket but I cannot find a deep 8 point socket that will work. Does anyone have any history in attempting to remove vents from in wall convectors?
kd47828
0
Re: Which bearings for my DA tank pump?
We have found that rebuilding them gives a shorter life than new as the plates will give up next and the cost for a new bottom end is not much more money.
As to bearing type the dealer should be able to get that from the build tag.
As to bearing type the dealer should be able to get that from the build tag.
kevinj_4
0
Re: Old NRC Boiler suddenly has slow leak from (drain/relief ?) pipe. Why?
Having a bladderless expansion tank, it will fill partially with water after it has been drained until the incoming pressure of the water equals the air cushion in the tank.
The procedure is to turn off the fill to the tank, drain all the water out of the tank and then turning the fill valve on. This is not the fill valve to the boiler, but the fill valve on the line that goes to the tank from the boiler, usually a globe valve.
By the way, the air scoop (that green thing) that removes air from the boiler water needs an Taco 1/8" Hy-Vent. It doesn't work well at eliminating the air without one. My opinion.
It goes in that 1/8" hole where the plug is.
Feeding the air from the air scoop to the expansion tank is probably not as effective as venting to the atmosphere. I know what the original installers were thinking, that the air from the air scoop would displace the water in the expansion tank. Several companies made special valves to accomplish this. That is just my opinion.
I would replace the existing expansion tank with an Extrol 30 bladder tank with a 12 to 15 psi air charge if it is a multi story house. Buy it here: Supplyhouse. com and at the same time replace the 30# pressure relief valve .
These are cheap fixes. Less than $75.
The procedure is to turn off the fill to the tank, drain all the water out of the tank and then turning the fill valve on. This is not the fill valve to the boiler, but the fill valve on the line that goes to the tank from the boiler, usually a globe valve.
By the way, the air scoop (that green thing) that removes air from the boiler water needs an Taco 1/8" Hy-Vent. It doesn't work well at eliminating the air without one. My opinion.
It goes in that 1/8" hole where the plug is.
Feeding the air from the air scoop to the expansion tank is probably not as effective as venting to the atmosphere. I know what the original installers were thinking, that the air from the air scoop would displace the water in the expansion tank. Several companies made special valves to accomplish this. That is just my opinion.
I would replace the existing expansion tank with an Extrol 30 bladder tank with a 12 to 15 psi air charge if it is a multi story house. Buy it here: Supplyhouse. com and at the same time replace the 30# pressure relief valve .
These are cheap fixes. Less than $75.
Re: Replacing Taco 007 F5 circ pump need help
Yes, the motor should be horizontal. But, if it was working well before, don't worry about pumping toward the boiler and toward the expansion tank. For decades, B&G recommended that arrangement, and millions were successfully installed that way and are still working fine, including my 65-year-old boiler.
A pump doesn't know whether it is pushing or pulling. It just cares about its suction pressure and its differential pressure.
A pump doesn't know whether it is pushing or pulling. It just cares about its suction pressure and its differential pressure.
Re: Pressuretrol failed after a month?
I agree that you need to check and clean the pigtail. If the boiler wasn't skimmed properly, or an additive was put in the water, it can clog the pigtail. Once that is done, set the Pressuretrol properly. Set the "Main" to about "2"PSI and set the Differential to 1.5 PSI. That will give you a Cut-in of .5PSI and a Cut-out of about 2 PSI. Given this is a new installation, if the boiler was properly sized to your connected Radiation EDR, it should rarely, if ever reach cut-out pressure and the Pressuretrol acts only as a safety control. Do you know the total EDR of your radiators? How well does that match up with the "Sq.Ft. Steam rating on the boiler plate?
Fred
1
Re: Should I add water? Short cycles, low water light, not heating.
I consider it another over hyped electronic wonder that should go the way of the Cyclegard. I use Dwyer mechanical water meters and MM 101 Feeders. You'll replace three of those VXT's before these ever fail.
Re: Small Cape style home with heating issue
The top floor is a separate zone? I wouldn't be a bit surprised if the top floor was frozen somewhere from your description. You wouldn't think a heating pipe could, but they can -- and do.
Not much you can do in this miserable weather, unless you can trace where the pipes are and see if you can figure out where it might be frozen. It could be any short length running up an outside wall, or in a crawl space (perhaps under the eaves somewhere).
Now -- when you do get it running again, do not use a setback at night so long as the weather is this cold! What happens is that when the setback starts in the evening the boiler is off for maybe a couple of hours, and the circulation stops -- and the pipes freeze.
You may also be able to change a setting on the controller so that you have constant circulation in the heating pipes (circulating pumps always running) and the boiler only on when you need heat. That will help, too.
Not much you can do in this miserable weather, unless you can trace where the pipes are and see if you can figure out where it might be frozen. It could be any short length running up an outside wall, or in a crawl space (perhaps under the eaves somewhere).
Now -- when you do get it running again, do not use a setback at night so long as the weather is this cold! What happens is that when the setback starts in the evening the boiler is off for maybe a couple of hours, and the circulation stops -- and the pipes freeze.
You may also be able to change a setting on the controller so that you have constant circulation in the heating pipes (circulating pumps always running) and the boiler only on when you need heat. That will help, too.
Re: One building engineer for every eight schools.
Government. Doing less with more for nearly 250 years.
ratio
1
