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Best Of
Throwback
A throwback Milwaukee Sawzall.
It works well but I doubt I'll ever use it.
Looks great on a shelf though.
It works well but I doubt I'll ever use it.
Looks great on a shelf though.
Re: Radiant electric ceiling heating
Personally I don't like them, I see them as a fire hazard even though there seems to have been few fires attributed to them. There were some recalls but you'd have to know the brand to search it.
It just doesn't work in a cold climate, radiant in the floor works because that's where you're feet are.
Electric radiant in the ceiling has too long a run time and consumers usually end up with a high utility bill.
It just doesn't work in a cold climate, radiant in the floor works because that's where you're feet are.
Electric radiant in the ceiling has too long a run time and consumers usually end up with a high utility bill.
Re: Radiant electric ceiling heating
It is not very popular here. Nobody wants their heads heated. I had a friend that had that in a luxury home. It was the most uncomfortable heating system specialy when it got very cold.
Henry
2
Re: Problems Unresolved, Seeking Input {Looking for References, Chicago Area -- Mod Con Boiler}
The near boiler piping is a mess granted, and needs to be changed. But that problem zone needs repiped in 3/4 period. There is plenty of baseboard to get the btus out if you can get them there with out a screaming flow rate to keep a decent average water temp. You need 334 btus a foot thats doable.
Gordy
1
Re: Condo Board recommending we convert from central 1 pipe steam to private heating units
When I run into a project like this, I feel like you have to really turn it into a hybrid system utilizing Rinnai direct vent space heaters, Fujitsu mini split heat pumps. The more zones the better in my experience if the utility Co can't meter usage you will always have people crying foul. I'm in Maine where heat costs are a big deal with today's technology steam is just not a practical option especially when the cost of fuel is high. There are a lot of great options with converting existing radiators to forced hot water and if necessary replacing with wall hung panel radiators. One thing for sure one boiler for two buildings complicates the one pro about steam, Simple. Electric resistance heat how do you say it "gedoutahea"
Re: Need to choose a Gas boiler
Like njtommy said the installing contractor is key. Ask to see pictures and if they have refrences from previous customers....with a similar install...where are you located.....did any perform or even mention a heat loss calculation?does the boiler heat your hot water or you have a separate hot water heater?
Paul S_3
2
Re: EDR Between Two Boiler Sizes - Which to Use?
Holohan wrote that undersized boiler equals long run time equals more fuel consumption. OTH when old big boiler was replaced with multiple boilers owners were pleased with reduced fuel consumption. Just about all winter only one is used. My gut feeling is to undersize replacement boiler. How many times have we heard about problems stemming from undersized boiler on steam system?I agree.
As for draft heat losses,I don't see that it's a big deal with steam. OTH with HHW and always on circulator those rads and baseboards can get COLD. Same if HHW heater uses low limit.
The only way an undersized boiler can possibly use more fuel is if there are balancing issues and somehow the radiator starved is in the thermostat room.
With a properly balanced system an undersized boiler cannot possibly use more fuel. It goes against physics.
ChrisJ
1
Re: Condo Board recommending we convert from central 1 pipe steam to private heating units
Like http://www.72fllc.com/ for example. John works in NYC and really knows his stuff.I'll second that. Call him.
Re: Help! Does this in floor radiant install look right?
Staple up radiant has been around for a long time, and has worked well. It requires higher water temps, usually maxing out around 150 depending upon the design, and the insulation being installed correctly. You need a 2 inch air gap between the subfloor and the insulation. A lot of times, the insulators just jam it up, and the system will end up not producing as expected. A good way to ensure this doesn't happen is to put up a barrier to keep that 2inch air gap. This can be done with reflectix or some other material. At that point, the insulators can insulate to the barrier. This type of radiant can be considered antiquated at this point with the availability of modcons, and the plates. As far as the boiler is concerned, I would look at other manufacturers. I'm not a big fan of that boiler. With regards to the boiler for heat, and a thankless for water, I'm not opposed to that. With a radiant system designed with plates and outdoor reset, you can keep the boiler running at low temp and in the condensing range all season long. If you add an indirect to the boiler, you will end up in the high 80% range during domestic mode. With a high efficiency thankless, you stay in the high efficiency range throughout the domestic production. It will also modulate off of demand. By the description of your weather, it sounds like weather we see here in NH. Radiant installed correctly is great! Installed poorly, it is a headache!
Re: Bastardized system of my own creation
Question is the forced air having to pick up any of the heating load? Or is it there strictly for AC season?
You may want to combine some zones.
The UFT 80 or as stated the KHN 85 has the low end modulation, and btus to muster DHW.
You may want to combine some zones.
The UFT 80 or as stated the KHN 85 has the low end modulation, and btus to muster DHW.
Gordy
0