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Re: PowerFlame JR50A Issues
One damper should be roughly 1/4" open. It should not be leaking fumes around the blast tube. 2.2vdc is on the low side is this a UV detector or Flame rod? Honeywell 7800 control?
I don't remember the lowest the signal can go but most control MFGs whatever the minimum signal they say you have to have a higher signal to make the burner reliable. 5.0 is max I believe. @.2 sounds like they low end.
Pilots on PFs tent to be tricky. Take the pilot assembly out and clean it good. Adjust the gap on the electrode. Then get the pilot lit and put the control on hold and watch the signal. Make sure the electrode wire is good.
Play with the air setting and with the pilot reg to get the best (and steadiest signal) steady is important a
signal jumping from lo-hi is worse that a lower signal that is steady
And lastly. Check the 120 volts. Don't forget and a lot of techs don't realize this. If you ignition trand is rated 120/600 you only get the 6000 if you feed it with 120. Feed it with 115 you only get 5700out.
If ll else fails and you can't find the issue try a larger IG trans Webster used to make a 120/8500 volt singl pole. Not sure if that is still available. That used to fix the PF "C" burner when they had pilot issues.
Never had too many issues with the J but never worked on as many of those.
Work on those to get a stable signal and if you achieve that then maybe the transformer.
Propane or NG? Some utilities when the weather gets cold "shave the gas" by adding propane to the NG which can cause issues. Did this just start having problems?
What does the signal come up to when the Main Flame is on?
I don't remember the lowest the signal can go but most control MFGs whatever the minimum signal they say you have to have a higher signal to make the burner reliable. 5.0 is max I believe. @.2 sounds like they low end.
Pilots on PFs tent to be tricky. Take the pilot assembly out and clean it good. Adjust the gap on the electrode. Then get the pilot lit and put the control on hold and watch the signal. Make sure the electrode wire is good.
Play with the air setting and with the pilot reg to get the best (and steadiest signal) steady is important a
signal jumping from lo-hi is worse that a lower signal that is steady
And lastly. Check the 120 volts. Don't forget and a lot of techs don't realize this. If you ignition trand is rated 120/600 you only get the 6000 if you feed it with 120. Feed it with 115 you only get 5700out.
If ll else fails and you can't find the issue try a larger IG trans Webster used to make a 120/8500 volt singl pole. Not sure if that is still available. That used to fix the PF "C" burner when they had pilot issues.
Never had too many issues with the J but never worked on as many of those.
Work on those to get a stable signal and if you achieve that then maybe the transformer.
Propane or NG? Some utilities when the weather gets cold "shave the gas" by adding propane to the NG which can cause issues. Did this just start having problems?
What does the signal come up to when the Main Flame is on?
Re: Purple primer mess
So the clear primer cleaned up the purple primer for the win! I vote for cleaner primer with purple marker
Re: I'm finally building a new garage/woodshop. slab-radiant is a must!
I have radiant floor heat in my shop and really like it. My shop is 30' x 40' x 12 high. Approx. R-22 in ceilings and walls. Insulated overhead garage door. My calculated heat load was about 17.500 Btuh using Manual J. I heat it with a 50 gallon tank type electric water heater. The calculations and the actual performance have matched well; no surprises. I live in Nebraska and can keep 60 degrees down to 0 degrees F. The room also cools decently with a 14K window air conditioner.
PDTech
2
Re: Is it ok to Modify Gas Pipe Line behind the Gas Range in this way
Hi there, when I pull out Bottom Tray of my Gas Range then I can see like this below. So what is this WHITE KNOW inside it, and is there any way I can Turn OFF Gas in case if I notice any Gas Leak in this way.
And what is the name of this WHITE KNOW Bottom of my Range inside it, and at this place my Hand can reach.
please let me know....Thanks
And what is the name of this WHITE KNOW Bottom of my Range inside it, and at this place my Hand can reach.
please let me know....Thanks
tester22
1
Re: Elevated CO on burner tune up
By impinging do you mean any contact with the combustion chamber? in this case I do not see that.
. Impinging is when a droplet of oil comes in contact with an object before the droplet is completely vaporized. Oil will not burn in the liquid state, so those tiny droplets must evaporate completely. Since the flame is over 2000° those tiny droplets evaporate quickly. However, if some of those droplets hit the cold cast iron (maybe 300° because there is 180° water on the other side of the cast iron) or the combustion chamber. (maybe 600° to 1200° that is reflecting the heat back onto the flame) before the droplet is completely evaporated, then that droplet will not completely burn. Even with extra air, you will not get that oil to completely burn.
You may have noticed carbon deposits on some end cones or retention heads over the years of oil burner service. That carbon build up is incomplete combustion of. the fuel and the leftover carbon sticking to that colder (compared to the 2000° flame) surface. Then the next droplet does the same thing, and it builds up over time. If you let that go unchecked you can have 6 months of burning OK, then poorly, then all of a sudden the build up carbon catches a greater portion of the fuel and you get the burner to make a #10 smoke and you get a plugged boiler in about 30 minutes of operation. So 6 months… then the last 30 minutes is a disaster.
On those WM SGO and WGO boilers, it is not easy to see the flame as it exits the burner. But you can see the flame in the chamber and they are usually several inches away from impinging on anything. An incorrect Z dimension on the Beckett burner with the incorrect nozzle spray angle may be impinging at the retention cone.
And Yes... that is a interesting App Steve. Wish I had it before I retired.
Re: Help Identifying Valve
The pictures I posted was of my best looking valve. Most of the others are rusted and corroded so that is where the water is dripping from. I'm fairly certain they require replacement. I'll post pictures of them later this evening when I'm home.
SunRad
2
Re: This weeks case, Replacing a steam boiler at my kids school What would you do?
@jumper I sized the hydronic boilers by doing a heat loss on the hydronic wing and double checked my calcs by comparing the steam to water heat exchanger size and the pump gpm. I sized the steam load by adding all the univents together and added 15% for the piping. I used Triad vertical fire tube boilers. I piped the steam boiler output into the existing horizontal header. I used swing check valves on the steam boiler piping to isolate the boilers.
@ethicalpaul LOL thanks. The committee was really concerned with backup. The old solo boiler had failed numerous times causing school to be cancelled.
@ethicalpaul LOL thanks. The committee was really concerned with backup. The old solo boiler had failed numerous times causing school to be cancelled.
Re: How to test which wire is R and W in a 2 wire only thermostat?
The T87 and the T8775 are different stats.. op is talking about the T8775, not sure how the T87 even came into the discussion.
T8775 has a digital display, has no battery backup and is indeed power stealing.
When we mention T87 now, we should be talking about the current edition and not the discontinued mercury one unless specifically mentioned. The current T87K is also technically power stealing, but battery assisted(CR2450).
T8775 has a digital display, has no battery backup and is indeed power stealing.
When we mention T87 now, we should be talking about the current edition and not the discontinued mercury one unless specifically mentioned. The current T87K is also technically power stealing, but battery assisted(CR2450).
dko
1
Re: Buderus Logamatic: house overheating w/ random DHW PROD ERROR
If you put it to manual, lower the left dial to 140° because that's the operating control and will now be the indirect tank temperature. So be careful.
Ohm out the tank sensor.
Check amps on the indirect circulator. Is the indirect loop air locked?
Is there freeze protection or circulator exercising? If the indirect isn't heating properly, it might "time out" on priority and switch to the above functions, causing the space to over heat.
Ohm out the tank sensor.
Check amps on the indirect circulator. Is the indirect loop air locked?
Is there freeze protection or circulator exercising? If the indirect isn't heating properly, it might "time out" on priority and switch to the above functions, causing the space to over heat.
HVACNUT
1
Re: Help! Ubearable noise from Taco Hydronic Circulation Pump
That's not normal. Not even close to it. May be running dry, spring coupler could be bad, impeller bearings could be dry or shot, motor bearings could be bad. Plumber needs to take another look and have the repair parts and time to fix it.
