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Re: Making a 180 for the return pipe in fintube baseboard
I guess that they didn't sell enough of them so they stopped ordering them the fitting manufacturer. Oh well!
Looks like you are stuck with the ole standby double elbow option.

Same on the vented one https://www.pexuniverse.com/slant-fin-101-024-cented-return-bend
Looks like you are stuck with the ole standby double elbow option.

Same on the vented one https://www.pexuniverse.com/slant-fin-101-024-cented-return-bend
Amateur hour
For your amusement…
I’m not a pro, but I like to do my own work whenever possible. That includes pipe-fitting. Years ago when I would visit my Mom I would always check the "for sale" section in the local paper for tools. I came back one time with this pipe vise and reamer along with some old threaders (not pictured - another time).
The Westward kit was from Grainger Supply and has worked well handling up to 1-1/4” pipe. I accidentally tossed the 3/4" head and that's a Ridgid replacement. Needs a different ratchet though.
Cheers, Eric Peterson
Unusual Gas Fitting
I came across these gas fittings in an over 100 year old apartment building. They were in the basement where one of them could have been for a hot plate for the superintendent. Just a guess.


Re: Bending Steel pipe...Old School
My buddy's Father, JimI remember him telling me they would bend pipe by filling it with sand and heating them with torches. I know pipe benders have been around a long time. I bet someone here..Hot 🔥 Rod, Ed Bratt, Ed, did this or saw it done as a kid.I recently had to bend some PVC electrical conduit into a U-shape and remembered the sand-and-heat trick from somewhere. Filled a short section of conduit with sand and heated gently with a heat gun. Worked perfectly to make a nice 180 without any flattening.

2
Re: Troubleshooting hot water switching relay
This can be a pain in the ****. Sometimes I remove the actual printed circuit board from the control case. Be careful if the control uses plastic standoffs, they can break and you will have a problem with reassembly. Observe the back of the PC board, look for burnt spots or areas where the solder may have been poorly applied. Over time the poor connection can overheat and melt the solder away from that connection. If you can carefully solder the bad spot, you can continue to use the repaired control.
This can be fixed with a small soldering iron and a drop of solder.

Trash this one

This can be fixed with a small soldering iron and a drop of solder.

Trash this one

As My Shop Super Dave used to say...
"We got Fresh meat 🍖 coming."..Meaning young, green Apprentices that we can break in the right way. In the past 2 weeks, I've recruited 3 nice young men in their 20s who are just starting out. I told them which Holohan books 📚 to start on and to start lurking here as much as possible. If you're out there Brandon, Phil, and Michael...Welcome! Mad Dog 🐕
Re: Its on every plumbing exam.......
My suppliers call this, rightfully I'm guessing, a double ell. I had a guy calling it a "pants fitting" because to him it looked like a pair of pants. Then the rest of my guys were calling it a pants fitting. I had to get them in a circle in the yard and holler at them.Or a double ell?realliveplumber said:How about a Tyler tee
More recently, everyone in my shop calls the Ridgid 12-R "the lollipop."
I'm going to lose it one of these days.

9
Re: Vent size reduction from appliance to chimney
So, based on your I/O manual and the National Fuel Gas Code NFPA 54 table 13.1 (d) Masonry Chimney What you have will work if your chimney is 50 ft tall. (probably not) Look at the Red stared numbers on the chart for a 6” Single-wall metal connector diameter (the connector is the horizontal galvanized smoke pipe you are referencing in your original question)

If you have a 30 ft tall chimney (not out of the question… 2 story home with heater in the basement) then you can use a 7” connector with the heater up to 15 feet away. See the Blue stars.
If you have a 20 ft tall chimney then you will need a 7” connector but the boiler needs to be within 5 ft of the chimney. See the green stars.
If your chimney is only 15 ft tall, from the base of the chimney where the connector pipe enters the chimney, to the top of the chimney, then the connector needs to be only 2 feet long
To be clear the connector is the 6” pipe on your system that goes from the heater to the base of the chimney. And that is probably not the correct size.
You may need to enlarge the base of the chimney opening. And have new 7” crock installed.
I actually wonder if you really need that size heater? Perhaps that heater was too big for you home and that is why the chimney only has a 6” opening. The original heater was most likely smaller and a 6” connector pipe would have been just fine.
$2300.00 sounds a lot cheaper than the price of a new boiler now, doesn’t it?
I think all you need is a larger opening.

If you have a 30 ft tall chimney (not out of the question… 2 story home with heater in the basement) then you can use a 7” connector with the heater up to 15 feet away. See the Blue stars.
If you have a 20 ft tall chimney then you will need a 7” connector but the boiler needs to be within 5 ft of the chimney. See the green stars.
If your chimney is only 15 ft tall, from the base of the chimney where the connector pipe enters the chimney, to the top of the chimney, then the connector needs to be only 2 feet long
To be clear the connector is the 6” pipe on your system that goes from the heater to the base of the chimney. And that is probably not the correct size.
You may need to enlarge the base of the chimney opening. And have new 7” crock installed.
I actually wonder if you really need that size heater? Perhaps that heater was too big for you home and that is why the chimney only has a 6” opening. The original heater was most likely smaller and a 6” connector pipe would have been just fine.
$2300.00 sounds a lot cheaper than the price of a new boiler now, doesn’t it?
I think all you need is a larger opening.
Re: Vent size reduction from appliance to chimney
Why does everyone just guess, guess, guess, when you could test test test A combustion test and functional flue test makes it simple.