Best Of
Re: Should low limit aquastat switch trigger circulation pump?
C1 should not be powered just because the boiler is making the low limit differential if there's no heat demand.
Is it possible the circulator isn't running while making differential, but the check valve in the circulator is bad.
Easy enough to replace if it's in the flange. Can't see the volute in the pics but if it's old enough, it could be in the volute.
Is there any flow check on the supply side. Post some pics from 10 feet away if possible. Floor to ceiling.
Even if it is a faulty check valve, there are better aquastats out there that offer cold start and condensate protection.
HVACNUT
How Do I Connect This Wire?
I have made several wiring diagrams in the recent past in order to help others solve a problem they encounter. Some are simple, others are more complex. Digital electronics and technology are built into just about everything from our cars, to our front door locks and cameras, to the thermostats that we use to keep us comfortable. I think that stuff is great, but I would not know the first thing about a chip or a diode or a triac or transistor or any other pieces of these electronic wonders, gets put together. I am strictly an analogue relay and switch kind of guy. So when it comes to HVAC controls and how to make them work, I break it down to the simplest common denominator. What gets turned on and what gets turned off based on what you are asking the equipment to do for you.
The NEST thermostat is one of those marvelous pieces of technology that has no contacts, switches or relays inside it, but somehow it opens and closes circuits on analogue type HVAC equipment just like a conventional set of contacts on the older thermostats, in order to turn a gas valve on and off, or a compressor contactor to energize and close a set of contacts or to de-energize when we get to the proper comfort level.
A fellow wallie
@MikeAmann, gave me this great idea to post a discussion with some of my wiring diagrams after one of my ideas helped solve an issue for him. So here it is,
As I post different solutions to common problems and maybe some rare occurrences too, I will copy and paste them here. And I am going to start with one of
@pecmsg's favorite subjects, the one that seem to come up more often over and over The Dreaded C wire for the NEST thermostat and other smart thermostats.
Re: How Do I Connect This Wire?
When the Nest first was introduced (Before google acquired NEST) I found that there were some problems on some devices. The first one was a Taco Zone Valve 570 series. Without going into details this is how I fixed it.
Before Nest Thermostat
After Nest Thermostat showed E72 error
I added this isolation relay with a separate transformer. (Green) See how the contacts on the relay do the job of the old T87F thermostat contacts. It is the simplest fix for all kinds of incompatibility issues with any smart thermostat.
Here is a comment made by a Taco Tech Support guy years later. It seems that they fixed the Nest or upgraded the software over the internet.
Re: Radiant Purge Viega Manifold
Until the actuator is powered up.
When the pin is up, that valve is open. Depress the pin to close off that valve.
Or leave the actuators on and power them up, to open them, one at a time.
I generally do all the purging before I install actuators.
hot_rod
Re: oil furnace sooting extensively
When i say dripping i meant i saw a drop on nozzle semi dried there and once i removed nozzle i couldn't see thru it.You can't see thru a nozzle. There are some finely machined parts inside that nozzle and they will block the orifice from letting light thru the cindered filter. If however you went to the trouble of disassembling the nozzle to look thru the orifice, then throw those nozzle parts away. You will never get it back together with the proper torque and cleanliness needed for proper flow and pattern.
Here is a look at the inside of the nozzle:

Re: Montgomery Ward coal fired Water Heater
I would not use it as a wood stove as dry firing will likely damage it. You could use a pump controlled by a thermal snap switch to move hot water from it. You'll also want a relief valve and expansion tank in the system. The heater has a cast iron water heating chamber on top, so like any boiler, you need to prevent dry firing and thermal shock. It looks like a fun project 😎
Yours, Larry
Re: Modcon vs CI Gas Usage - Baseboard Heat
Some suggestions, upgrade the envelop first. Even a weatherstrip upgrade can make a difference, as infiltration can rob a lot of your fuel $$
Next do a room by room heat load calc, followed by a fin tube assessment. How low of a SWT can you actually run will now become clear.
Next look up some 20 year weather data. How often are you at design, or below in your area? Probably 80% of the heating system you are below design. So 80% of the time the CI boiler, properly sized is oversized and cycle efficiency starts to chip away at the operating cost. Even on a single zone system!
The higher the temperature required at the fin tube the more loss through the wall to the outdoors. Fin running at 140 loses less through the wall build up, than a 180F system. A simple delta T formula.
So a mod con, properly sized, installed and set up, addresses all the efficiency robbing concerns.
It may modulate down to the lowest zone load. ODR keeps the SWT matching the heat load fairly accurately. Ramp delay, anti short cycling can be used if it is a micro-zoned system where small loads fall below the lowest turn down. These all come into play even if it never condenses!
Below is BIN data is for upstate NY, but I suspect the trends would be similar for L.I, as far as % of design. I believe 0 or 5 above is design in this upstate area.
If you can get SWT down around 150 or lower, design day, the mod cons will really sing fig 3-6. Mod con efficiency goes up as they run at low turn down, fig 3-31. Widen the operating delta to 30° to lower the return even more. It's the return to the boiler that dictates the condensing operation.
Also a slide from Viessmann training regarding reducing SWT and ODR usage. With a CI boiler you are limited on how aggressively you can set the ODR and protect the boiler from extended cold run time.
That leaves the question of maintenance cost, life expectancy. That will be debated till the end of time.
I started a file of mod con cleaning from IG, with poster permission. I've seen boilers that hadn't been serviced in 8 years looking very clean when opened. And boilers opened after one year 1/4 full of mouse turd deposits.
I feel intake air filter and proper burner set up the first year and a check after a year has a lot to do with the combustion side condition.
So it comes down to number crunching first, or talking with folks that have made the mod con transition on CI fin tube systems in your area, for some case study data
hot_rod
Re: Purging air with no zone valve

System off, put hose on where you indicated, put hose in a bucket in a sink. Close ball valve.
At the same time, open hose bib, and open fill valve, running water thru the system to maintain at least 12 psi while monitoring the bucket. It's a bit of a juggling act, but you don't want the pressure to drop below 12 psi, and you don't want it near 30 psi.
When all bubbles have stopped in the bucket, at the same time, close hose bib and close fill valve. It's easier and more accurate to just kink the hose to control flow. Then you can let a little water out until you're back to 12psi or whatever you need your cold fill pressure to be.
Don't forget to open up your ball valve before turning the system back on.
Based on how it's piped, recurring air issues may be a theme
Re: H.B. Smith Boiler circa 1954
They made many different models with a few different ratings but are all basically the same. The manual wont help much I am sure the 1954 burner you have has been replaced??
That same boiler was made for at least 40 years
Re: Radiant Purge Viega Manifold
Turn the blue valve off, hook a hose to the purge cock at the other end and open one zone at a time.
Either power up the actuator on the loop, or remove the actuator to open that loop. Purge, close loop, repeat on each loop of the manifold.
The cap on the purge cap has a square wrench to open the purge cock.
Stick the purge hose into the HD bucket to see when the air bubbles stop coming out.
hot_rod




