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Re: Electrical - heating question

As far as the question of hardwired versus cord and plug you would have to look at the product listing. As others have mentioned some Mod Cons are cord connected

EBEBRATT-Ed

3

Re: No heat second floor

Depending on the age of the boiler, your pressure / temperature gauge may be square (older) or it may be round. The pressure will most likely have a marking at 30 PSI that may indicate DANGER. All that means is the relief valve will squirt water out if the pressure gets that high. So don't add more water than you need.

Now you will need to know the pressure on the gauge. If it is below 12 PSI, (sometimes it has feet on the gauge also, so you want about 30 feet or around 12 - 13 PSI). If the needle is below 12 PSI then you need to find the water feed valve to put more water pressure in the boiler. A picture of the boiler from about 10 feet back will help us find the valve for you.

Once you get the water pressure up to 12, then you can let more air out of the top floor radiators. As you let more air out, the pressure will drop at the gauge. I find if you have 2 people doing the job, one to let the air out and one to watch the gauge and add water as the gauge pressure drops, the job goes much faster.

If you still have questions please post a photo of your boiler (it’s not a furnace)

EdTheHeaterMan

1

Re: Correct Venting for faster Radiator heat up??

Wouldnt the heat effect the #2 to close to soon.

Nope.

I can guarantee the air above your boiler isn't 212 degrees.

delcrossv

3

Re: What do you know about coal heat?

Cedric's home had a coal fired gravity hot air furnace for the new (1896) addition. Last used (by me) in 1960 — that was one cold winter! I still have about a ton of coal for it… and the furnace is still there, but completely unusable and unsafe. Should remove it one day…

Some of the gadgetry that went with the old coal hot water or steam boilers was really interesting — the fancier ones were fully modulating, based on water temperature or, for steam, on pressure, and sometimes on space temperature. Some older houses may still have remnants of the controls, if you know what to look for. The efficiency on part fire was horrible — but they did modulate, and they did hold even heat.

Jamie Hall

1

Re: Loop not heating, possible solutions?

Is that a real dry return, and is it thoroughly vented? If so, lose the check valve. Replace it with a loop seal — if you can get enough depth. Otherwise, you could install a regular trap.

Now.

Your drawing shows a pipe connection from the steam main to the dry return? Say what? If that's for real, then that's not a dry return, but a steam main extension It will have the same pressure in it as the main, and there is no reason for steam to ever get into the fin tubes at all, check valve or no check valve. You might get away with placing a vent on each fin tube at the far end away from the steam connection — provided the fin tube is pitched back to the connection so condensate can drain. On the other hand (and the drawing is not clear to me) if the fin tubes are in series… your only hope is going to be the vent you show between the fin tubes and the check valve, and then a true wet or dry return from there back to the boiler to carry the condensate.

Jamie Hall

1

Re: Heat load calculation for replacement boiler - double-check my work?

Lochinvar WHB085N: 8,500 BTU low fire (turndown ratio of 10:1). It seems like you will get the best operation from that unit in the fringe months.

Lochinvar WHB055N goes as low as 8,300 BTU input but only has 55000 input for you DHW recovery.

EdTheHeaterMan

3

Re: Correct Venting for faster Radiator heat up??

https://forum.heatinghelp.com/discussion/comment/1817730#Comment_1817730

The #2 vents about four times as fast as the #75. It's a no-brainer.

Steamhead

3

Re: Correct Venting for faster Radiator heat up??

Do not worry so much about the length of time to fill all the radiators with steam. Most of the time a partial fill will satisfy the thermostat and avoid overheating the house. The important thing is that the system heat evenly most of the time, though this may vary in unusual weather conditions.

Regarding the Gorton #2 main vent, you have 90 feet of 2 inch main, right? @steamhead says that's what you need, and you will not find better advice on steam heat.