Best Of
Re: Replacement for 8124 a 1007
Honeywell/Resideo L7224U or Hydrolevel 3250 are the best choices for an upgrade. You can make it cold or hot start and keep the circulator off until the boiler heats up to prevent condensing. And they both have a thermal purge feature to help with energy savings. I don't ever install any old mechanical aquastats anymore. The new digital aquastats have much better features and I don't have as many problems with them.
Re: Trade question Boilers
For Radiant heating I would prefer a condensing boiler. Weil McLain 97+ or Triangle Tube Prestige Solo are great boilers with a nice fire tube heat exchanger. The only boilers that I consistently see problems with due to quality and I recommend staying away from is anything from Navien.
Pretty much every condensing boiler needs to be commissioned and tuned with a digital combustion analyzer when installed. Adjustments for higher altitude are done at this time.
No matter what you install the quality of the installation is the most important factor that affects reliability and efficiency. The best boiler in the world will perform poorly if the installation instructions are not followed or if it's not sized properly.
Re: Diagnosing low gas valve pressure on WM CGA-5-PIDN
The first question I would ask is "Does your home heat properly at design temperature? (Design temperature = coldest day of the year). If you can answer yes to that, and the boiler has no other operational problems, then it ain't broke… Don't try to fix it.
OR, Are you trying to solve a problem? Then explain the problem you are trying to solve.
Re: Need direction - Bosch Singular 5200
"Hybrid" would be a kind word. Is there any way you can rearrange the piping so that each section is fed individually from a manifold of some kind — doesn't have to be right at the boiler — and each returns individually to another manifold, and then the whole lot returns to the boiler together?
Re: DIY Boiler Installation -- Peerless 63-03
Any pictures of the final product from a few feet back?
JakeCK
Re: Weil McClain Gold Oil - Water Level Issue
Update: with the yellow valve turned ON and the blue valves OFF, the water level did not rise.
With that in mind, it seems the waterfeeder is the issue. Do you agree?
Re: Correct Venting for faster Radiator heat up??
That's your problem right there. This pipe needs to slope TOWARDS the main. You'll never get steam past that dip.
Re: Replacement radiator on two-pipe vented system in SoHo?
@mattmia2 @Steamhead yes, I think you're right.
Re: Raising Height of AAV
That looks like a baffle tee that it is tied into. Used to connect two bowl sinks. that could be the slow drain issue. Take it apart and see what that tee looks like inside.
A rubber fernco coupling fits nicely also, easy to service.
hot_rod
Re: Vitodens 100w B1HA - 82f Heating Curve Setpoint
Newer style furnaces run similarly, longer runtimes at lower fuel usage, generally the blower speed will be variable as well, this can bother customers used to that blast of hot air coming out the vents.
Basically the lower supply temperature allows your boiler to condense the flue gasses more, that is where a lot of the listed efficiency ratings are coming from, without condensing you might only be running 80-85% instead of 93-95% efficiency. The boiler modulates the burner, so while it might run for more time throughout the day, it won't be using more fuel than a system that runs less amount of time but cycles more, assuming all other things are equal. If one system is condensing, and the other is non-condensing, the condensing system will use less total fuel (less wasted energy going out the flue pipe) but the delivered btu/hr to the space should be the same over a day's worth of run time. With a condensing boiler install, or a modulating furnace, I like to see that system running at a low fire rate for a long time, while maintaining the indoor temp at the thermostat setting. When modulating forced air furnaces were a lot less common we used to get calls from contractors wondering why the furnace never shut off, so you are not alone being confused by this!
If you are running a fairly low heating curve setting your system may not recover quickly from temperature setbacks so do keep that in mind. The required water temp to maintain 70 degrees, is different than the required supply temp to raise the temp of the space several degrees. I do a 2 degree setback when I remember to dial back my thermostats (I don't have programmable stats) and don't have issues recovering from that. Temperature setbacks are one reason many contractors in the US set these condensing units to run at max temp on install, but then you basically have a modulating 80% boiler instead of a 95% one. Don't be shy to raise the heating curve if the system doesn't keep up. your comfort level should come first imo.
GGross