Best Of
Re: Lennox furnace stuck in heat mode
Ok. It appears that the subbase is failed. Try swapping in the subbase from the other thermostat too (you don't need to screw it back onto the wall for testing) & see if it works right.
Nest tech support might be able to help you further, but at this point I'd condemn the Nest subbase & replace it along with the stat itself, but maybe hang on to the old stat for a spare since it seems that part isn't defective.
You can try @EBEBRATT-Eds suggestion above (Red & White wires together = heat on, Red & White wires apart = heat off), but I expect it will work right.
ratio
Re: Boiler Running Full Tilt, Cold House
Now i know why i should do the annual maintenance of cleaning the combustion chamber on my HTP. i have sort of ignored it for the 6 years since I installed it but i will do it this summer. I think there is an envelope with a set of gaskets that came with it that i set to the side while installing it. i'm hoping it isn't that dirty because it is only used for water heating and some supplemental heating. The schedule should probably be by hours of run time rather than just time, it looks like there is a way to set that as a reminder in the setup but the manual didn't seem to give hours for the service interval.
mattmia2
Re: Boiler pressure constantly rises to/past 30psi relief valve trigger
I would try turning the high limit down a bit to see if it just has an offset. This way you can have heat while waiting on the new part.
Kaos
Re: Boiler Running Full Tilt, Cold House
Unfortunately you found out the hard way that you need to get to the heat exchanger on a PM with mod/cons whether its a fire tube or water tube. After doing it a couple of times It's really not that hard. Its part of our preventive maintenance with our customers. Every mod/con we breakdown we clean the heat exchanger even if it doesn't need it. We create a maintenance kit at our supplier so that when our scheduled PM's are due we just reorder We never have to change the heat exchanger gasket. The gasket that we carry to every site is the fan gaskets and the rear firewalls on water tubes.
I find it well worth breaking down because you actually will see what's going on in the heat exchanger. I've had leaking heat exchangers on the top of a fire tube and found water tubes completely plugged with coffee grinds. our PM's are pretty fast because they are cleaned annually. I believe that without a doubt doing a complete PM is extending the life of our customers mod/con.
pedmec
Re: Near boiler piping
Btw, the manufacturer of 8 way told me that my thinking of the ratio was correct. The water was so purple after they dumped that quart in there. It was unbelievable.
KJB
Re: Near boiler piping
Headers need no pitch it just makes thing more difficult and looks stupid. You can use a drop header if you want but no one has ever proven that if the NBP is done in accordance with the MFG requirements that it won't work.
Re: Near boiler piping
If you don't see any more oil flowing out and the water line is stable, you're done.
You can try another day, but that should be it.
When I do a new boiler with lots of piping, I usually skim for a few hours, run the boiler for a day or two in cold weather and then skim again and I'm good. It may work faster if you use a cleaner. I don't.
Re: Twinned burnham boilers water filling off boiler
Most use a 3/4 F & T trap which is more than enough
Re: Heating recommendation for Jackson, WY
There are, or were some excellent radiant contractors and wholesalers in the Jackson area. I've been doing trainings up there for 17 years now.
I would have a local wholesaler, or rep do a design for you. Something like LoopCAD to get a tubing layout, pump sizing, boiler piping, etc.
I would tube every residential job 6" on center now. A little more tubing $$, but it allows you to heat with the lowest possible temperature, give you the fastest ramp up, most consistent floor surface temperature.
Also allows for a heat pump installation in the future.
I can call around on Monday see how many of those hydronic guys are still in the area, or who is the local go to experts, PM me if that could help you.
My next ground up build would be a mix of radiant floors and panel radiators. Really no need for radiant floors in bedrooms, most of it is covered any ways. I'd use panel rads with TRVs in bedrooms. Quick easy control and setback options. A super simple non electric temperature control.
With some attention to design you could run radiant floors and panel rads on a single, low temperature system.
I'd guess a 50- 80-,000 btu/ hr boiler would cover your entire project.
hot_rod