Best Of
Re: Excessive Water Hammer / Knocking trying to find source
Things to talk to the installer about:
need a new vent here
need a vent installed here, probably Gorton 1's in both places'
as @tcassano87 says, this copper connection should drop straight down to the wet return
your water quality is bad. Boiler needs to be flushed and skimmed some more.
id also flip this reducing tee so the drain cock aims into the boiler- makes flushing the mud leg easier.
lastly, they should check pitch on your lines to make sure there're no sags or pockets.
Re: Pipe Dope for 2" Home Oil Tank Lines?
Your right but the Pump Mfgs (at least Suntec) pushed it through.
Re: Weird exhaust smell Nat. Gas GV3 not making C.O.
With most gas fired boilers, you will get a smell in the exhaust, of various nitrogen oxides. Quite distinctive, once one learns what it is. That said, you should NOT be smelling it anywhere except rather near, and downwind of, the exhaust port on the building. Anywhere else and you have an exhaust leak.
Problem. Nitrogen oxides aren't good for you. Nor, for that matter, is low level CO which, unless you have a low level detector (down to a few ppm — most commercial ones are limited to 100 or so, which is get out of Dodge level) you won't detect. That's not good for you either.
Something is amiss in the exhaust train, and it would be well to find it.
Re: Apartment Tankless Hot Water
Hi, Is there anywhere else you could move the water heater, where space is less of a concern? Also, is there a place where a heat pump type heater could go? You won't save much space with tankless, and the maintenance is a thing. It's not set and forget like tanks can be. Not trying to rain on the parade, just personal experience raising its head 🐲
Yours, Larry
Re: Loop seals vs. F&T traps on 2 pipe mains
Only problem with a loop seal is if someone jacks the pressure up. Other than that, more reliable than a trap.
Re: Loop seals vs. F&T traps on 2 pipe mains
You're not missing something. The combination of loop seal and crossover trap is much cheaper and simpler — and considerably more reliable — and offers higher capacity than an F&T.
However.
It this condensate path is a loop seal to the dry return, as it sometimes is, it is limited to relatively low pressures. Even if the loop seal is a generous 60 inches, any steam main pressure over 2 psig will allow steam to blow through the loop seal and pressurize the dry return. This is not good.
Now if the loop seal isn't really a loop seal, but consists of two drips (one from the main, one from the dry return) going to the wet return, this limitation doesn't apply — but… now if the boiler pressure acting on the wet return will raise the condensate in the wet return up to the dry return if the pressure is too great — using that 60 inches, 2 psig again.. This isn't good, either.
So. Bottom line: if you boiler pressure is much over a couple of pounds, you are going to need an F&T. Otherwise, you're better off with a crossover trap and a loop seal or double drips.
Note that an F&T makes a truly miserable main vent — so you'll need a main vent at the end of the steam main.
Re: Air in boiler feed water
I think they are looking at this:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-574004A-1-2-Threaded-574-Brass-RPZ-Backflow-Preventer-Low-Lead
and this
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Caleffi-574064A-1-2-Press-574-Brass-RPZ-Backflow-Preventer-Low-Lead
and seeing that the press version is about $50 less and asking if the the press version is just the npt version with press adapters pre-installed.

Re: Bathroom Remodel - Some Basic Insulation Questions for Radiant Floor
Maybe I'm missing something here but if you are going to remove the floor down to the joists you can just install fiberglass between the joists and then put the new subfloor down. Lay the quicktrac or whatever on top of that and then the finish floor. That's what I did in my house. I do like some insulation below the radiant heat to reduce the downward losses which will help "push" the heat into the space you want it.

Re: What do you use and why?
I used to rely on maps in the old days but tossed most of them. Now I use my phone but on a recent trip to downtown Boston that quit when going under bridges and through tunnels so I put my old road atlas back in the truck.
Trouble is when you come out of a tunnel it take some time for the gps to re boot
Re: Burner technicians -what’s going on in this industry?
I think they're both the same, people doing installs that haven't done service is how you get things like condensate lines or gas pipes keeping access panels from being removed for stuff or control wiring that has to be disconnected to move the control board off to the side to pull the blower out or oil burners that won't hinge open because something is in the way.
