Best Of
Re: Faucet brands
But more $$ may not get you any better valve mechanism. Maybe more brass or a designer look. It's the pieces in the water flow that take the beating. Even the high dollar faucets with ceramic cartridges fail. Buy spare cartridges when you buy a high end faucet. In my experience the cartridges become un-obtainable in a few years.
If the "feel" of the faucet is important, solid brass is still available from Chicago, Zurn, T&S and other commercial names.
On our current bath remodel I went with the Moen ARRIS line and was surprised how heavy the lav and tub fillers are, still some brass in this line and mid price range
hot_rod
Single pipe steam. Inlet side hot. Vent side cold. Should radiator fins all heat up at same time?
Single pipe steam.
Turned the thermostat heat up to 80*F.
Ran the boiler for 20 mins. then checked each radiator.
In general, on most radiators, the inlet side was hot, and the vent side was still cold.
How long should it take for the heat to reach the last fin next to the vent?
After 20 mins, I then turned off the heat. Did I need to wait longer?
BR #1: Inlet side hot. Vent side cold. Vent quiet.
BR #2: Inlet side hissing/sputtering. Inlet side hot. Vent side hot. Vent quiet.
BR #3: Inlet side warm. Vent side very cold. Vent hissing.
LR: Inlet side hot. Vent side very cold. Vent quiet.
DR: Inlet side hot. Vent side barely warm. Vent hissing.
Kitchen: Radiator encased by kitchen nook bench. I feel heat coming out.
I also checked the main vent in the basement.
Main pipe was hot before and after the main vent riser, which was also hot.
So, I think main vent is working?
Video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fUElS_m0TpL7A70b6Dag-QdvXb0bFSU0/view
Re: Why would first room off the main line be colder than all other rooms?
If it heats up more or less in the same way as the other rooms when the boiler is running — it's not the boiler or the radiators.
You may have a huge air leak in that room, or miserable insulation, or something of that sort.
Re: EDR Calculation Help - In Need of a New Boiler
The number on the boiler has a 30% pickup factor subtracted from for the rest of the system losses it so the output is actually 30% more than what the ratings plate says. The load from the piping is likely far less than 30% so a somewhat smaller ratings plate number will likely work fine.
mattmia2
Re: Circulation issue- lp boiler
Maybe I'm ,missing something, but I don't see any way to purge the zones individually without running water through the separator — and the boiler. Which won't help at all.
Re: Circulation issue- lp boiler
It needs purge valves on the returns above the ball valves on the system side of the separator. With the purge station on the boiler side, it's just purging through the boiler.
HVACNUT
Re: Piping for New Steam Boiler
No harm with the 4-inch header, except to your pocketbook. Probably overkill, especially if the header's dropped, which would also be overkill if you have room for a nice high header. You have to analyze the benefit in light of local conditions.
Re: Oil Burner Vacuum Question
If your not getting any air to the burner and it fires ok then I think you are ok.
You might want to put a valve between the vac gauge and the oil line to "save the gauge" The pulsations may hurt the gauge over time. If that happens the gauge may lie to you
Re: Oil Burner Vacuum Question
anything over 7” hg. vacuum we recommend a two stage pump
You are just fine at 5 to 6” vac
Re: Smoke smell in house with oil boiler
You mention that you burn wood, at least sometimes. The smell from a wood fire, or one which has almost gone out, is distinctive. So, for that matter, is the smell of diesel exhaust from an oil burning boiler.
So…
Which is it that you are smelling? The two are really very different, although it is common enough to refer to both as "smoke". More to the point, the source of the two and the causes are completely different. So we really need to know.