Best Of
Re: Minisplit head placement
I would also prefer to put ductwork in. The home will be much more comfortable. Mini splits need to be installed on an exterior wall so you can drain the condensate outside and access the line set fittings from the outside. This limits where you can install the indoor units.
I know you technically can install them on an interior wall, but anytime that is done it becomes a nightmare for service. Condensate drainage usually requires a pump which can be problematic. Personally I think installing them on an interior wall is idiotic.
If you can install a proper ducted system you will be much better off in the long run.
Re: Connecting AC to Hydronic System
Or do you have a hydroair coil in the air handler? Old systems g on the t-stat called the blower on high which is what you need for ac and y was just a junction point to connect the t-stat and condenser contactor. In newer systems y turns the blower on high, so you'd need a second relay for y if you don't have a control in the air handler to do a high blower call with g or y.
Re: Replacement for Old School Dual drain slop sink
Ha ha...nope. this what I classify as an an "Antique repair." (such as an old clawfoot tube with the spout below the flood level rim....not going to IXNAY the Old Gem trying to bring it up to 2024 ICC) home has a backflow preventer anyway. Folks dont always have the $$$ to do everything we wanna do. Mad Dog
Re: Best system for Duplex I’m purchasing
@EdTheHeaterMan I think the OP had his mind made up that steam is outdated and inefficient going in.
Re: Minisplit head placement
1 on each floor is probably oversized.
You can’t “Think” about sizing it must be right!
pecmsg
Re: Floor Closet Flange Toilet
It's been a long time since I used brass ballcocks; I have to think back why I switched. I'd pay a premium price for a Wolverine valve, but that wasn't the issue as I always liked using quality components.
It seemed that the washers would easily foul and the toilet would run and run and run. Sometimes the float would hang up on the side of the tank and often, the water level would change and I'd have to bend the float rod to bring it back to the proper level.
The Fluidmaster is just so much easier. The only problem that I have with them is when the very small diameter (~¼") inlet tube gets fouled with a chunk of mineral deposit on older, galvanized water systems, but it's easy to get to and quickly resolved.
Re: Honeywell V8043 hard to activating when connected to Nest
OK. I see a problem. you have the C from the thermostat going to the same place as one of the R or W on the thermostat, That is where you have the Red X.
Just changing the C to the other side of the zone valve may or may not solve the problem. Here is an example of how it will not work.
In this picture, the R from the transformer goes to one of the yellow wires or to the TR on the zone valve. The Other yellow wire from the zone valve or the TH goes to the R on the NEST. The C from the NEST goes to the R on the transformer and the W from the NEST goes to the C on the transformer.
This is an example of how it will work:
In this picture you can clearly see that the R from the transformer goes to the R on the NEST. The W from the NEST goes to the Yellow wire or the TH on the zone valve. The other Yellow wire or the TR on the zone valve goes to the C on the transformer. And the C from the NEST also goes to the C on the transformer.
BUT….
Don't just change the wires on the one zone valve if you need to. All the Zone valves MUST be wired the same. To be clear, If you need to swap a wire from W to R on one zone to make it work, then you must change W to R on every other zone the same way. Otherwise you may let the factory installed smoke out of the transformer. That can get expensive and it doesn't smell very nice either.
You can always get one of these smoke keepers from the auto parts store. You want the 3 amp variety.
PS… I don't really sell these. They are cheaper at the auto parts store
Re: Temporarily Moving Compressor For Yard Work
looks like you have a lot of slack in the refrigerant lines if you unscrew then from the house and carefully flex them
or you can pump it down, install flare fittings to extend it, then evacuate it and release the charge
another 10' of lineset isn't likely to make a difference in the charge.






